Those are neat too, but if both being equal as far as performance accomplishment, I'd go the long bars for looks alone as mentioned!

$690 for the RCD's....OUCH!

 

would it matter if i put the tension pushing the axle back or pulling it forward? i have them mounted so they are isnt much room for pulling them forward, because i thought pushing it back would work better.

 

See, that's what I thought...thus my question to Gotts2BMe as he said different????

 

wow I didn't realize that until I saw those vids. I really need to get some traction bars because I get axle hop sometimes just didn't realize what it was.

 

after looking at the video more, it doesnt seem that the truck squats very much. if you look where the spare tire and the bump stop on the axle, they dont move much from each other compared to the twist of the axle.

 

Well even with your add a leaf you still have your factory 2 inch blocks, either way it didnt flex like that lightning did. Cool video though, neat to see what goes on back there under a load.

Whats with the two tone drive shaft? lol

 

what, you dont like it?

it used to be red, but i ran out of black paint, i just never cared to finish it

looks cool on the video tho!

 

I was hoping you would understand but here it goes lol.



length 1 is frame rail (doesn't change)
length 2 are your trac bars (adjustable but doesn't change when you are driving)
length 3 is your suspension travel. (will change)

Angle A is directly above your rear axle
Angle B is where your trac bars on mounted the frame rail
Angle C is where your trac bars are mounted on the rear diff

The first image in the top left hand corner is your truck sitting level.
The second image (right of first image) is when your suspension compresses
The third image (below first image) is when your suspension expands or no weight on it.

Remember length 1 and 2 do not change and only length 3 changes. you see as your suspension compresses like when you hit a big bump that angle C changes as length 3 changes. when the suspension compresses it will bush the rear axle towards the rear of the truck and when the suspension expands it will suck it towards the front. Now depending on what kind of off roading you are doing. Like hitting jumps and catching air or just ripping around in the mud or hitting bumps.

When you are adjusting them to set tension on which ever side consider what you are most likely to encounter. adjusting the t bars to their shortest length will put less rear ward force on the differential when you hit a big bump and compress the rear suspension.

I hope this makes sense.

 

thanks for the explanation gotts!

ill see how much ill be able to adjust them once i get them fully welded up!

 

Gotts...that was neat, thanks. So for the overall best/most suspension travel, you'd adjust them as short as possible like you originally said??

 

There is an art to getting the right length of trac bars depending on the range of your suspension travel or of your desired travel of the suspension. The rear suspension does naturally compress slightly to the rear with the shackle on the rear of the leaf spring. The length of trac bars is very important and their as actually an art to it.

The best advise i can give to str8t six when it comes to adjusting is get his mounts welded up permanently measure the distance between the frame mount and the axle mount. Jack the truck up in the rear so their is no weight on the rear suspension and measure again. Put enough weight in the bed so he is on the bump stops and measure again. Ideally those will all be the same length and that is the length you want your trac bar. If they are not the same length you take all 3 and average them. If they are way off you have to adjust them the best you can to get that length.

 

so i need to jack up the frame high enough to take the tires off the ground?

 

yes

 

Just do what this guy is doing, should get it high enough

 

Ok thanks.