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2004 Driving Lights Behind the Grill

2stroked
March 27, 2009
 8
 1
For those of you with 2004 trucks, here's the driving light bracket that I'd previously shared - until my gallery disappeared. It allows you to place two driving lights behind the grill and mount them in such a way as to avoid the shaking common in some other designs. This particular design was built and installed in early 2005 with simple tools and parts. It was completely fabricated in my basement shop. Read more ยป
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Lights with Hood Open: wWith the hood open, you get a better picture of what the whole system looks like.
Lights with Hood Open: wWith the hood open, you get a better picture of what the whole system looks like.
0 2009/09/23 08:47:56 2stroked
Lights in Grill 2005: This is what the pair of Hella 500 driving lights (with 130 watt bulbs) look like with the hood closed. Note that the bracket is basically invisible. The grill does not cut down on light output appreciably and heat has not been a factor.
Lights in Grill 2005: This is what the pair of Hella 500 driving lights (with 130 watt bulbs) look like with the hood closed. Note that the bracket is basically invisible. The grill does not cut down on light output appreciably and heat has not been a factor.
0 2009/09/23 08:47:56 2stroked
Center Cross Member: Here's that same bracket shown from the side.
Center Cross Member: Here's that same bracket shown from the side.
0 2009/09/23 08:47:56 2stroked
Center Cross Member Closeup: I needed to better support the center of the bracket and find a place to remount the Temperature Sensor. This is the bracket I came up with.
Center Cross Member Closeup: I needed to better support the center of the bracket and find a place to remount the Temperature Sensor. This is the bracket I came up with.
0 2009/09/23 08:47:56 2stroked
Relay Mounting: The relay I used has an integral fuse mount and I used a short stainless steel screw to mount it to the side of the battey cover. There is no switch in the cab since I decided to trigger the driving lights any time I switch on the high beams.
Relay Mounting: The relay I used has an integral fuse mount and I used a short stainless steel screw to mount it to the side of the battey cover. There is no switch in the cab since I decided to trigger the driving lights any time I switch on the high beams.
1 2009/09/23 08:52:10 2stroked
Top View of Cross Member: Here's the basic bracket system in place before mounting the lights. Everything was measured & mocked up with cardboard and / or thin aluminum stock before the final bracket was fabricated, painted and installed.
Top View of Cross Member: Here's the basic bracket system in place before mounting the lights. Everything was measured & mocked up with cardboard and / or thin aluminum stock before the final bracket was fabricated, painted and installed.
0 2009/09/23 08:52:10 2stroked
Wiring Along Hood Release Cable: I tried to make all of the wiring look as "factory supplied" as possible. Here's the wiring running from the bracket to the right side of the truck. Some goes up to the high beam hot lead (to trigger the relay) and the rest goes to the relay and battery.
Wiring Along Hood Release Cable: I tried to make all of the wiring look as "factory supplied" as possible. Here's the wiring running from the bracket to the right side of the truck. Some goes up to the high beam hot lead (to trigger the relay) and the rest goes to the relay and battery.
0 2009/09/23 08:52:10 2stroked
Z Bracket: The basis for my whole syetm is what I call the Z-Bracket - due to its shape. Everything here is fabricated from 1/4" x 3/4" flat aluminum stock from Home Depot. I had to buy slightly longer bolts for the Cooler at the base.
Z Bracket: The basis for my whole syetm is what I call the Z-Bracket - due to its shape. Everything here is fabricated from 1/4" x 3/4" flat aluminum stock from Home Depot. I had to buy slightly longer bolts for the Cooler at the base.
0 2009/09/23 08:52:10 2stroked

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