...change the brake pads on my 2000 F-150 extended cab 4X4? I have done this before on my previous trucks (all chevys), however, I did not want to get into it unless it was something that I could easily do. I will probably have to turn the rotors and possibly replace at least one. Also, any thoughts as to what pads to buy or where to get a cheap rotor if necessary? Where can I have the rotors turned? I am in San Antonio. Thanks in advance.

 

I would like to know this also, I have the same truck and my only previous brake jobs where on late model camaros.

Thanks,
CHarlie

 

Brakes on your truck are a pice of cake. I've had three new style (post 1997) F-150 4x4's and the brakes are easy. The front pads come out with two bolts each (I think they're 13mm) and the rears are equally simple. I would not recommend turning just one rotor on an axle. Either turn them both or replace them both. I think I paid $42.00 / pc for front rotors up here in Rochester, NY, so why even bother turning them. By the way, there's no need to pull axle bearings to remove / replace rotors on your truck. Remove two more bolts holding the caliper bracket (18mm I think) and the rotor pops off - sometimes with a little persuasion - like a hammer.

As for pads, I've used both the Performance Friction Carbon Metallics and the Bendix top of the line (Blue Label) semi-metallics with good results. Make sure you either turn or replace the rotors instead of just slapping new pads on old rotors. You'll just be asking for trouble if you don't. Make sure you stick the anti-squeal lining on each pad before you install them. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info, but why do you have to replace or turn the rotors? What happens if you just put the new pads on there, I have only done a few brake jobs, but on those on my camaros the only time I turned or replaced the rotors was if they were warping.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

Thanks for your response. That is the answer I was looking for. Sounds very similar to what I have done in the past. Are the front and rear basically the same? My old truck had rear drums (what a pain the butt).

 

He's using the term a little persaustion(sic) loosely. The rotors can be a BEAR to get off. Plan on a couple hours to get them off because they are very stubborn.

 

Most of the time even with lots of WD40 or other penetrating oil it still takes a BFH to get the front rotors off and in the process you will bend or pit them badly requiring new ones. They're not that expensive. I used JCWhitney "titanium" pads with good success.

See my how-to for front brakes and other F150 stuff on my site here: http://members.shaw.ca/pferlow/ford_f150.htm

 

So why do you have to change the rotors out just because you are changing the pads?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

The reason you need to either re-surface (turn on a brake lathe) or replace your rotors when you do a brake job is that you start out with two evenly matched wearing surfaces. Your current rotors probably have some grooves worn in them that match the worn out pads. They also have some old pad material ground into their surfaces. Simply slapping in new pads will cause the new pads to only contact the rotors at the "high" spots. This will cause all sorts of weird (uneven) temperature patterns that are not good for either part. Starting out with new surfaces on both the pad and rotor side works much better. Trust me, I've tried the "pad slap" method and ended up replacing both pads and rotors a month later because the two didn't bed in properly.

 

Good question !

 

What he said

 

Contrary to what some say, unless you have some specific reason, there is no need to machine or resurface the rotors. If the runout on the rotors is out-of-limits, just replace them with new ones. Run-out is usually caused by warpage of the rotor and if you look at how thick the F-150 rotors are, it would tak a tremendous amount of heat to make them warp. So, if the are warped, you are better of replacing them. Otherwise, just put on new pads and move on. Of course, if you have allowed the old pads to wear too much and grind metal-to-metal, machining might be a good thing.

I just replaced my front pads with Raybestos ceramics and they are excellent. The old pads had 37K miles and still had 1/8th inch left. The rotors were in great shape so no machining for me.

 

I dissagree with the pads and go method.

First off rotors on our trucks rarely warp due to heat build up 9 times out of 10 it is because the lug nuts were put on incorrectly. This problem started occuring when manufactures started using doughnut rotors (No need to remove the axle bearings)

Second if you don't atleast rough up the surface of your rotors before putting on new pads you will cause your new pads to "Glaze" which is a very hard surface and will greatly reduce breaking performance over the long run.

It is correct however that you do not always need to replace your rotors when you replace your pads. All rotors and drums have a measurement stamped on them for minnimum thickness. If you have them turned and they are thinner than that measurement then they must be replaced. Of course if not keep em!

my .02

good luck-