Ok, i'm getting pretty aggravated with these brakes on my 97 ext. cab. This is the 5th time i'm gonna replace pads and maybe the 2nd time to replace rotors since i got the truck 30k miles ago...it has about 69k on it total. Any advice guys...i know these brakes suck, but com'on.

 

Are the front brakes dragging?

-Jon

 

So,

Do you ever WIN any of those roadraces that you obviously compete in?

 

Have you checked the REAR brakes to see if they're doing any work? If they're out of adjustment the fronts will do all the stopping (since it's a '97 I'm assuming it has rear drums).

 

Big tires don't help! You're having to squeeze the pedal probably twice as hard to get the same stopping distance = major heat.

Yes, check your rear drums to make sure they're doing some work!

Ask user: Eduk8er about his titanium pads from JCWhitney. I just got some. Feel good so far. Can't beat'em at $35 bucks a set. No dust.

Make sure you set the pads on the reground rotors or new rotors... 8 gradual stops from 30mph, let em cool 1 hr before driving again. Then take it easy first 50-100 miles. Otherwise you'll glaze the pads and warp the rotors.

Try some cross-drilled rotors from JCWhitney for $94.95 each. They don't have the 97-98 4x4 rotors online but listed in their print catalog. They'll take the heat better than OE.

 

I had the same problem with my truck, 4 sets of pads and 2 sets of rotors in 20k miles. I then switched to the Powerslot rotors, carbon pads. I also upgraded to Stillen twin piston calipers. I bought the rotors from Truckperformance.com (slow as hell) and paid about $200 for the rotors and pads. I purchased the calipers from 4Wheelparts for about $450. I did just have to replace the pads at the 30k mark but seems average for a truck with the weight and tire combo. The rotors still look great and the only problem was a slight squeek at pedal. Truck stops alot better and does not cook the pads anymore. You don't really need the calipers but I'm putting on 36" or 38" tires and the weight is a issue for me. Hope this helps. The only thing I wish Ford would put on is a porporting valve so you can adjust the brakes. That will be next but I need more info on the ABS since mine is 4wheel ABS. Hope this helps. Here is a pic and you can see the rotor in this pic. Makes people ask when I get my tires rotated

 

Your larger tires is the main problem there. - increased unsprung mass

Since you have rear ABS, you do NOT need a proportioning valve. The ABS computer will act like an electronic PV for you if you have to much rear.

First be sure to adjust up the rears at least once a month -- by hand!!!

Second, upgrade the calipers to the 7700 payload units. You have dual piston calipers stock, but the 7700 units have larger pistons. The larger pistons will give you more clamping force, thus more braking. Get the autozone performance friction pads -- lifetime warranty even against wear. Last set of pads that you will have to buy.

With upgrading the calipers, you may also need to upgrade the master cylinder or at least adjust out the brake booster to make up for the larger volume of the 7700 payload calipers.

For rotors, get some cryogenically treated units. They will last longer and stop better. Slotting and drilling will cut the weight down on the rotors, but will crack and decrease your braking since you have less rotor area to transfer the kenetic energy to heat. Baer has a good writeup on their FAQs about that:

http://www.baer.com/faq.shtm

Your other options is to upgrade to rear disc and really if you want more stopping power upgrade the fronts to like a 4 pot caliper with 13" rotors. But then you will need to upgrade the wheels also to 16.5s at least if not 17s.