Want more agressive stance

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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #16  
pizzaman711's Avatar
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Depending on the width of the 33" and if your using stock wheels, you'll have no problem clearing them with 1-2" of lift.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #17  
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Guess it really doesn't matter for me anyway then. I guess F150's stopped having torsion bars in 2004, haha.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...rsion-bar.html
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by il_duce
Guess it really doesn't matter for me anyway then. I guess F150's stopped having torsion bars in 2004, haha.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...rsion-bar.html
Only 97-03 4x4 f150's
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
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Here is my 02 on 33 mickey thompson ATZ's. The overall tire size comes out to be about 33.5x11.8. which isnt't bad. But I havn't cranked my tbars yet, I'll be doing that in the spring. The tires I have are a nice improvement over the stock 31's. It adds a noticeable height difference and appearance.


[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 02:16 PM
  #20  
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FYI, I have no problems clearing these tires, although I have the FX4 package, there is no rubbing at full lock whatsoever. I'll post a pic when I crank the TBars this spring, if oyu haven't found what you're looking for yet.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by snobum989
FYI, I have no problems clearing these tires, although I have the FX4 package, there is no rubbing at full lock whatsoever. I'll post a pic when I crank the TBars this spring, if oyu haven't found what you're looking for yet.
Pictures aren't working, and fx4 package is the same height as the 4x4's without it.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 09:46 PM
  #22  
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Hey bud, about the Duratracts, theyre a pretty good tire. my buddy had em on his chevy 1500 farm truck for a while and they seemed to bite on the dirt and mud pretty well. They were pretty quiet on the street too, no like mud grap howl. He liked them.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #23  
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I just wanted opinions about cranking the bars. I measured my difference from front to rear and I only really need about a 1 1\4 rise in the front but wanted to go 2 inches and maybe put blocks in the rear? or any suggestions on what to do? I want to clear bigger tires over stock. my main off road use is when I go hunting so I don't need a huge lift.
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 11:49 AM
  #24  
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I'd just crank them up until the truck is level. But if you want to crank them up more, go for it. It doesn't cost anything to see how high you can go. Be sure to keep an eye on your CV joint angles and make sure they don't look crazy. Also, make sure the suspension isn't "topped out". Both are pretty hard to do with the stock torsion bars and keys. If you wind up with the front higher than the rear, replace the rear block with a taller one. After you are satisfied with your ride height, get the front end aligned.
 

Last edited by wandell; May 2, 2014 at 11:52 AM.
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Old May 2, 2014 | 08:45 PM
  #25  
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what are the odds of snapping a torsion bar? that's my main concern being since I called the dealer and found out they don't make bars anymore. also would f250 torsion bars and leafs fit on my 00 f1?
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #26  
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Well, I've wanted to do the same thing, I have a '97 F-150, I was able to clear 33's with no rubbing, and no modifications (tires at 90% or more tread). I thought about tightening the T-bars, but this is just my opinion, if Ford had them at a certain level, there is probably a reason for that, but I am by no means a mechanic, this is just my experience with other projects. So I said no to tightening the torsion bar, and looked into leveling kits, but they are cheap, and so is a 3" body lift kit, so you might as well get the body lift. I dont like the idea of a body lift due to body separation, so I looked at the 4" suspension lift kit, but those are WAY to expensive for me, hence the reason my truck is not lifted.
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wandell
I'd just crank them up until the truck is level. But if you want to crank them up more, go for it. It doesn't cost anything to see how high you can go. Be sure to keep an eye on your CV joint angles and make sure they don't look crazy. Also, make sure the suspension isn't "topped out". Both are pretty hard to do with the stock torsion bars and keys. If you wind up with the front higher than the rear, replace the rear block with a taller one. After you are satisfied with your ride height, get the front end aligned.
I cranked them today and I was able to get two inches out of them and my cv angles still look to be at a decent angle doesn't look sharp at all. you can see the difference in my album. now my next question would be what are suggestions for a true suspension lift for this torsion system?
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 10:32 PM
  #28  
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I think most of the true lifts have been discontinued by now leaving only a few options. Fabtech, zone, and rough country do as well as I think super lift still does. All are good options, just depends on your budget and the amount of lift you want.
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #29  
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I would probably want only 4 or 5 inches if there is a 5 available I don't want to go too big to run too big of a tire to where I have to regear. I would only want 33s but I also like the look of a lot of the 4 inch lift pictures on here
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 11:56 PM
  #30  
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Rough country has a 4 and a 5" kit. Depending on how wide of wheels you want, I would probably go with the 4" kit.

Also depending on your factory gear ratio, you still may want to regear for 33's.
 
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