HElp Caliper seizing

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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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babs4ever25's Avatar
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Angry HElp Caliper seizing

I have a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive, my front right caliper seizes when I have to apply more then normal pressure to the brakes, like when someone cuts you off. Then there is smoke hot grease squirting out at you, and I have to change the bearings, grease it all again, force the caliper back in, and now I have to change the brake pads again (I just put new ones on 2 months ago and they are down to the medal already).

I did change the calipers already both sides break pads and bearings on both sides when it first happened, even though it was just the front right side, there is no kink in the hose, I have changed the brake fluid completely and now I'm lost, I have no idea what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated, getting tired of spending hours in 38 degree weather fixing the caliper...
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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sounds like you need all new calipers. If you eat up pads in 2 months then you are definitely dragging brakes.

... probably also why you are trashing your bearings - you are overheating the entire wheel end...
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:24 AM
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Don't forget to replace the brake lines too cause sometimes it's the lines breaking down and sending rubber into the caliper causing it to stick
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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I'm not dragging brakes, the right caliper keeps seizing when I have to apply the brakes more then gently, and heating up and smoking melting the grease that lubricates the bearings, causing steaming little ***** of grease to spit and drip out of the wheel, I just put a new caliper on that side and it is still doing it.

So far I have changed the caliper (still seizing) bled out the brakes (still seizing) new bearings fresh grease (still seizing) hooked up a code reader, says nothing. The brake lines look good, but I will try changing them next, and doing a complete flush of the brake system.

In the meantime if you think of anything else let me know, thanks
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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Ya got bad rotors, bad clearences/runout. Do a Mic and dial indicator test. Rotor may simply be lodged on some rusty dirt.
Remove and replace the front set making sure to tru the instal onto clean hubs. Do not drive it anymore in its present mechanical condition.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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dragging, seizing... same difference
Your foot is off the brake pedal and the brake pads are touching the rotor, right?

Try replacing the master cylinder.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Change the rubber flex lines, common problem for high milage f150's
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by srfd44
Change the rubber flex lines, common problem for high milage f150's
I would do this before you change anything else out. This is a known problem and brake hoses are fairly cheap if you go with the stock rubber hose. I did my front hoses and it made a huge difference to my braking. I will be doing the rest soon.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:03 AM
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Smile

I stopped driving it days ago, it's been parked in front of my parents place, thank heavens they live close.

I bought flex hose, and brake fluid, I'm going to change the hose and flush the system today, I will let you know how that goes.

The rooters are new, just put them on 2 months ago, same time I did calipers and brake pads, if the flex hose and brake line flushing doesn't work then I will do the master cylinder.

I will keep the thread updated, so the next person that runs into this problem can at least follow it until the end and maybe get help without having to go through what I have.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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well seems it was the flex hose, thank you everyone for all your help...

Now just to figure out why the cab light won't go out, I'm getting tired of having to pull the fuse. That and the reader is saying the my 6th cylinder is misfiring, but I have spark, so I have no idea why, but it is running like I'm misfiring, I'm so confused lolol
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 09:19 PM
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misfires on 1998 models are usually the wires, check the resistance though them, especally #6. If it is not open (current flows) then pull the plug and change it.

Dome light... I am not sure. Did you WD 40 the door latch were the switch is? Is the door ajar light on when the door is closed?

It could be water is getting on the GEM module though a leak though the
windshield. See there is water under the dash in the upper left side.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:08 AM
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Yes I WD40-d every moving part I could get to lol, and yes the interior light stays on too, I do not have a leak in the front, but I do have one in the back seat, it drips down the back of anyone who sits on the passenger side back there.

As for the 6th misfiring, I put new plugs and wires in it 6 months ago, when I took it in to a garage for some things I'm just getting to old to do, I told him plugs and wires were new, and he changed my plugs again and charged me for it, I wasn't happy. But I do know they have been changed twice now in 6 months, so can't be that. lol

I really appreciate all your help, I'll keep tinkering, sooner or later something has to give...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by babs4ever25
well seems it was the flex hose, thank you everyone for all your help...

Now just to figure out why the cab light won't go out, I'm getting tired of having to pull the fuse. That and the reader is saying the my 6th cylinder is misfiring, but I have spark, so I have no idea why, but it is running like I'm misfiring, I'm so confused lolol
ur very welcome
i own a towing and repair shop and have seen it many times

check compression on the #6 hole is what i would do next
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Just a bump here... my 04 NBS has a warped rotor after 15k miles into all new brake parts. How hard is the flex line replacement?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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All new calipers, pads and rotors all around. Passenger side front is showing uneven wear marks on the rotor. This same thing happened before forcing me to change the caliper. That's why I'm thinking bad flex lines.
 
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