random thoughts during 2WD front brake job
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: O-H-I-O
random thoughts during 2WD front brake job
2005 2WD XLT 5.4 SCrew w/towing package w/72,000 miles
Warning-some random suspension thoughts follow also.
Got the RH side done today, will work on the LH side tomorrow.
Installing Centric hubs P/N 124.95902, Centric rotors P/N 120.65100CRY, & Akebono ACT1011 brake pads. Sure it has been posted before, but if you use the Centric hubs you can use any 4WD rotor.
Was getting a shudder on the RH front, there when I bought the truck <60,000 miles. Gradually got worse, really noticeable under moderate braking from 60 mph.
Rotor on that side noticeable rougher than the LH, initially more brake dust on that side.
Rotated the tires after I had ordered all the brake parts, found the RH lower ball joint had some slop-well shoot, going to be under there anyway I guess-Moog K80149 x 2 BTW... Both the uppers are still tight.
Anyhow. Centric 125.65902 brake hardware kit does NOT have the proper caliper pin dust boots for my truck. After digging around on the internet today, looks like the Motorcraft 6U2Z2321D kit would have been the way to go. Are several big box store auto part equivalents, but they were all special order.
On my truck the pin boots insert into the caliper bracket and have an integral bushing the pin rides in. Not my first choice, but the pins and boots looked perfect so I cleaned them thoroughly and reused them. Time will tell whether the Permatex Ultra brake lube will swell the rubbers or not.
Swapped out the lower ball joint. Used a floor jack to load the strut and still couldn't get the ball joint out of the spindle. Looked at the new Moog ball joint and saw it was about 5/8" shorter-broke out the Sawzall and hacked 5/8" off the bottom of the OEM one, slipped right out of the spindle.
Crossed my fingers and used my newly acquired Harbor Freight ball joint tools-P/N 38335 & 66958 to swap out the ball joint. The shorter Moog slipped right into the spindle.
Used my calibrated 198 lbs standing on an 18" lever (attached to a 36mm socket) to torque the new Centric P/N 124.65901 bearing retainer nut installing the new RH hub.
Swapped out the brake pads (caliper pistons were still intact) and put it all back together.
Had a couple nuts on the rotor, had stood on the brakes a couple times to push the pads out (LH side is still all assembled at this point) and spun the rotor.
Apparently the "tone ring" for the ABS on the Centric hub is shrunk onto the hub. The tone ring on this hub wasn't installed square to the hub-the tone ring wobbles in and out about 1/8" compared to the ABS sensor.
Decided am going to leave it for now and see if the ABS light comes on, but will send Centric a email just in case.
Just need to see if my Harbor Freight tool set has one more ball joint replacement in it in the morning.
Warning-some random suspension thoughts follow also.
Got the RH side done today, will work on the LH side tomorrow.
Installing Centric hubs P/N 124.95902, Centric rotors P/N 120.65100CRY, & Akebono ACT1011 brake pads. Sure it has been posted before, but if you use the Centric hubs you can use any 4WD rotor.
Was getting a shudder on the RH front, there when I bought the truck <60,000 miles. Gradually got worse, really noticeable under moderate braking from 60 mph.
Rotor on that side noticeable rougher than the LH, initially more brake dust on that side.
Rotated the tires after I had ordered all the brake parts, found the RH lower ball joint had some slop-well shoot, going to be under there anyway I guess-Moog K80149 x 2 BTW... Both the uppers are still tight.
Anyhow. Centric 125.65902 brake hardware kit does NOT have the proper caliper pin dust boots for my truck. After digging around on the internet today, looks like the Motorcraft 6U2Z2321D kit would have been the way to go. Are several big box store auto part equivalents, but they were all special order.
On my truck the pin boots insert into the caliper bracket and have an integral bushing the pin rides in. Not my first choice, but the pins and boots looked perfect so I cleaned them thoroughly and reused them. Time will tell whether the Permatex Ultra brake lube will swell the rubbers or not.
Swapped out the lower ball joint. Used a floor jack to load the strut and still couldn't get the ball joint out of the spindle. Looked at the new Moog ball joint and saw it was about 5/8" shorter-broke out the Sawzall and hacked 5/8" off the bottom of the OEM one, slipped right out of the spindle.
Crossed my fingers and used my newly acquired Harbor Freight ball joint tools-P/N 38335 & 66958 to swap out the ball joint. The shorter Moog slipped right into the spindle.
Used my calibrated 198 lbs standing on an 18" lever (attached to a 36mm socket) to torque the new Centric P/N 124.65901 bearing retainer nut installing the new RH hub.
Swapped out the brake pads (caliper pistons were still intact) and put it all back together.
Had a couple nuts on the rotor, had stood on the brakes a couple times to push the pads out (LH side is still all assembled at this point) and spun the rotor.
Apparently the "tone ring" for the ABS on the Centric hub is shrunk onto the hub. The tone ring on this hub wasn't installed square to the hub-the tone ring wobbles in and out about 1/8" compared to the ABS sensor.
Decided am going to leave it for now and see if the ABS light comes on, but will send Centric a email just in case.
Just need to see if my Harbor Freight tool set has one more ball joint replacement in it in the morning.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
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From: O-H-I-O
Got the LH side done today. First test drive was a bust (drove back to the barn with the ABS light lit). Had to tear the RH side back down to the hub and adjust the tone ring with a crowbar and a drilling hammer.