What brand of brakes do ya'll replace with on your F150s?? My AAP has wearever and Wagners. Are Wagners better than Wearevers? Is it going to matter if I stay with stock size tires (265-70R17)? I just purchased the truck and it needs brakes. I was going to do a COMPLETE brake job of new rotors front and rear; as well as new pads front and rear and New brake fluid. What are ya'lls opinions? Rock Auto has the Wagner rear rotors for like half price of what AAP is asking!!!! I was wanting to do it this weekend though as I'm off work. ----DirtySCREW

 

I have no opinion on rotors, but I think the Wagner ThermoQuiets, semi mettalic, are as good a pad as you can get. I have 81,000 on my set and will be gatting another set of them pretty soon.

 

X2 on the Wagner Thermoquiet pads.

 

Yea I'm definitely going w/ Wagner thermoquiet pads. Are their rotors better than wearevers though??--DirtySCREW

 

can anyone advise the difference b/t MX679 and QC679 thermoquiet front pads?

 

I don't really know, but it's possible that the MX is the Semi-metallic and the QC is the ceramic. I know my semi-metallics had an MX part number.

 

ceramic is better---correct????

(Off topic---BlueJay--how you like your flowmaster 40?)--DirtySCREW

 

I don't see how the ceramics can be any better than the high quality semi-metallic, for normal use. Ceramics are probably better if you do a lot of heavy towing in hilly terrain. They should dissapate heat better. But, there is the theory that they are harder on the rotors. Unless you tow a camper, etc, then I would recommend the semi-metallic.

I love the Flowmaster. It is the sound I wanted. Loud enough to be heard, but not obnoxious. Throaty sound. I do think I lost a little low end torque, but that was not important to me. Just wanted that sound. You can get a similar sound from the Roush Offroad, if you want the stainless.

 

I got the ceramics because I tow. They handle heat better and won't fade as fast under heavy braking conditions. But like Bluejay said unless you tow alot there is no real big difference other than some say they wear rotors faster?

 

Ok, I'll go w/ the MX semi-metallics! I also talked to a manager at my local AAP who said he'd price match Rock Auto! SWEET!!!! We'll see though


DOT 3 brake fluid --correct???????????????????????--DirtySCREW

 

Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM with the exception of VelveTouch- a line that Hawk just bought from Wellman Industries. VelveTouch lining has been used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years.

CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wear (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application.

With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel. Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc). I am presently running “Frozen Rotors” from Diversified Cryogenics. They have a web site at www.FrozenRotors.com. They purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you. Their service, price and quality is excellent as well.

For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made.

 

check out the adaptive one from napa
a gr8 pad set .. i have sold hundreds of them in the last year or so
and havent had one customer come back and complain
i run them on our personal and company trucks
very low brake dust and super quiet

http://www.adaptiveone.com/

 

Ok, the manager priced matched Rock Auto---wahoooooo! I picked up my rear rotors this morning, front rotors will be in tomorrow morning. Questions:
1) Do I need to put that blue anti-squeal compound on the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads??? I though I read on this forum or another that the wagners didn't need them.

2)WOuld it be easier to WAIT until I get my front rotors tomorrow and do the whole job OR go ahead and do the rears to day and then do the fronts tomorrow and then Bleed the system???

!!!!!MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!
3) Brake Fluid---I bought the AAP brand which is made by Wearever (same address on bottle and clerk advised its wearever). It is SYNTHETIC!!! Every brand they had was synthetic. Prestone DOT 3, Valvoline DOT 3 & 4, Wearever, and their brand. I forget which forum, but someone advised that switching brake fluids could cause havoc on seals and even the master cylinder. Does Ford have Synthetic fluid from factory?? Am I OK to use the DOT 3 AAP brand??? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!--DirtySCREW

 

DO NOT use the blue stuff. The ThermoQuiets already have their own padding. Why are you needing brake fluid and why are you bleeding. There is no reason to open the system and let air in, so no reason to bleed. If you have enough fluid now, yuou will have the same amount after the pads are installed. Just remove the lid on the master cylinder and tie a rag around it so if any fluid overflows when you compress the piston, the rag will catch it.

 

Well Bluejay, I have always been told that you are suppose to change your brake fluid every 2-3 years as it can absorb water and basicly break down. Again I just purchased the truck a week ago and wanted to bleed for peace of mind more than anything. I take care of my stuff---probably a little **** with preventative maintence. I have change several brakes/rotors and know how to do it WITHOUT bleeding. Believe me, bleeding is a pain. But I plan on keeping this truck for a long while and want it to last. It already has a little bit of high mileage (136,600) and I just want to take good care of her. I bled my mother-in-laws jeep about a year ago and her fluid was just plain nasty! I honestly don't know how the system was working it was that bad. Of course, it was probably the original factory 1998 fluid too!! Will the AAP Dot 3 synthetic fluid be OK if I decide to bleed?----------DirtySCREW