Replacement Rotor Question
Replacement Rotor Question
I have an 2006 Navigator and I am getting a little shake in the steering wheel when braking, mostly at higher speeds. I am guessing that I have a warped rotor.
So, are there any tricks to replacing the rotors on this truck? It looks fairly straight forward
thanks in advance
mhburris
So, are there any tricks to replacing the rotors on this truck? It looks fairly straight forward
thanks in advance
mhburris
While replacing you might as well replace w/rotors that won't warp again...I learned this the hard way...I've replaced all 4 of mine w/cross-drilled and slotted rotors and now cannot get them to warp no matter how hard I stand on 'em...
As far as doing the job, I chickened out there so cannot advise...
As far as doing the job, I chickened out there so cannot advise...
In my opinion any rotor can warp....if they get hot enough and you drive through water...bingo! warpage!
Rotors are designed to absorb and dissipate alot of heat, but a sudden cool-down is usually what warps them.
Once you remove the wheel, the brake caliper needs to be removed before you can take off the rotor. There are two bolts that hold the calipers on. Remove the bolts and the caliper will slide outward off the rotor. If there's a lip of rust on the outer edge of the rotor face, just work it past it.
I've learned that it's not worth it to buy cheap. Cheap doesn't last.
Purchase brand-name stuff and you won't regret it. I put Wagner rotors on a '94 F150 Flareside I had, I put 80K miles on them before trading the truck in for my current '04....they never warped!
Rotors are designed to absorb and dissipate alot of heat, but a sudden cool-down is usually what warps them.
Once you remove the wheel, the brake caliper needs to be removed before you can take off the rotor. There are two bolts that hold the calipers on. Remove the bolts and the caliper will slide outward off the rotor. If there's a lip of rust on the outer edge of the rotor face, just work it past it.
I've learned that it's not worth it to buy cheap. Cheap doesn't last.
Purchase brand-name stuff and you won't regret it. I put Wagner rotors on a '94 F150 Flareside I had, I put 80K miles on them before trading the truck in for my current '04....they never warped!
Last edited by mjb1032; Aug 12, 2009 at 07:03 AM.
Rotors
First questions: front or back, 2wd or 4wd? I think with 4wd you just need to pull the caliper to remove the rotors (don't take that as fact, I haven't changed a Ford 4wd yet) as they slid one the hub on many of them. On 2wd, the rotor is part of the hub on my one truck, so you need to change out the whole thing - still need to pull the caliper. My TBird has separate rotors and that's a snap. My 97 XLT has hub/rotor combos - not so fun but doable. If you're unsure, either get a friend or mechanic to do it. If you're mechanically inclined, get a manual and some tools, not too hard to do. Biggest thing to remember is tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang from the hose.
You might want to jack it up, back off the caliper a little and check the rotor with a dial indicator and confirm it's warped before replacing it. Might just be a bad set of pads (I have seen bad pads cause shake before while braking). If the rotors are true, then try switching out pads first if they're getting a little short on brake material.
Paul
You might want to jack it up, back off the caliper a little and check the rotor with a dial indicator and confirm it's warped before replacing it. Might just be a bad set of pads (I have seen bad pads cause shake before while braking). If the rotors are true, then try switching out pads first if they're getting a little short on brake material.
Paul
Last edited by HCBPH; Aug 12, 2009 at 12:42 PM.


