real bad shake
real bad shake
when i hit the brakes the whole truck shakes. at about 45 mph with light braking is when it shakes the most. in the morning the first few time i hit the brakes it is real bad. the more you drive it the less it shakes. any ideas?
Check rotors, stock can get warped under hard braking, especially towing. Also, mounting surface for rotor should be cleaned. And in some cases the lower ball joints can give a similiar condition.
ball joints, rotors and pads were replaced two years ago. it just dont feel like rotors. is there any easy way to tell if its the front or back?
can i have them turned or is it best to replace them? they are two years old and have never been turned.
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If the vibration is bad the least bit you touch the pedal and you feel it through the steering wheel, I'd say fronts. Seat feeling it under more pressure, rears probably. It's only when braking, seems like brakes. Unbalanced tires give it usually around 45-60 mph and no braking. Just cuz the stuff was replaced 2 yrs ago means nothing, you gotta check for play in the ball joints and tie rods. This usually didn't make the truck vibrate when mine were going, just noticed at low low speed turning etc.
For the cost, turn the fronts first and see if it gets rid of it. If you were to change the pads too soon, it might be cheap enough to replace, your call. Usually I turn mine with good results, 2 sets of pads from 1 set of rotors.
I'll throw this out there too, try a brake bleed as well, might have bubbles in the lines? Check the calipers and how they wear the pads, too much on one side is a bad caliper and/or warped rotor.
I'll throw this out there too, try a brake bleed as well, might have bubbles in the lines? Check the calipers and how they wear the pads, too much on one side is a bad caliper and/or warped rotor.
Warped rotors won't cause the shake the OP is referring to IMO, they don't help that's for sure. The calipers cause the shake and warp rotors. The lines aren't supplying the correct volume/pressure to operate the twin piston system. Those rubber lines break own inside/collapse which results in lack of operation to one of your two pistons. Pressure is then off center of the caliper and they vibrate like hell + heat the rotors.
Replacing the lines may correct the problem, you most likely need to replace the pads as well if the problem has been going on for awhile.
Replacing the lines may correct the problem, you most likely need to replace the pads as well if the problem has been going on for awhile.
I would have someone check the rotors for warpage and thickness and check the runout spec on them.
Just by new its the only way to go for the cost of them compared to machining them (slightly cheaper) and then they will only warp that much sooner.
When it comes to brakes never cheap out only replace...but thats just my opinion.
without driving it myself its hard to say just take it to Midas they will tell you lol
Just by new its the only way to go for the cost of them compared to machining them (slightly cheaper) and then they will only warp that much sooner.
When it comes to brakes never cheap out only replace...but thats just my opinion.
without driving it myself its hard to say just take it to Midas they will tell you lol
Well, you didn't fix it then lol. Make sure you post back when/if you figure it out.
I replaced one thing at a time until she was fixed, - all I needed to do is replace these fricken lines - Like Night and Day -
I replaced one thing at a time until she was fixed, - all I needed to do is replace these fricken lines - Like Night and Day -
Last edited by jbrew; Mar 9, 2009 at 01:33 AM.


