Hi all, this is my first post. I am in the middle of a break job and I need to remove the rear rotors. The truck is a 2005 F-150 STX 4.6L V-8, two wheel drive. I have removed the breaks but I am having trouble getting the rotors off. Is there some trick to this? Any help would be appreciative.

Thanks,
Rich

 

Well it looks like the rotor is supposed to just slide off, but I am still having a hell of a time. The parking break is not on, I put the truck in neutral just in case, but the rotor is half off on one side and it wont budge any more.

Am I doing something wrong? Or is more brute force needed?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Rich

 

Yep. Those should just pop off. I use a big hammer and hit the rotor until it pops loose. But since you said its half off sounds like it is stuck on a stud. I would hit it back on spray some pb blaster and smack it again until the other side pops loose.

 

Been a heck of a day. I finally got the rear rotors off. It took a bunch of brake cleaner and brute force. Next I had to tackle the front. It took 3 trips to the auto parts store to get the right size socket for that nut.

I am having the rotors turned tomorrow. I bought the friction master ceramic brake pads (all around). I read a couple threads where people had problems with warpage from ceramic pads and turned rotors, is this the case? Does anyone recommend a different pad?

Thanks,
Rich

 

The front rotors on a 2 wheel drive have to be turned on the vechile. Unless you just happpen to run across a shop that does it on these models. Dont forget that the big nut is 295 ft lbs to torque it back when finished. Also you will have less steel on the rotors,(after turning) so they will warp quicker next time. A lot of folks ditch the factory ones and go with some quality aftermarket. But there $$$ because of the brgs and hub and rotor are all one piece. Theres much debate over ceramics, youll prob read about as much positive as negative. You can't beat the carquest blues or the Wagner thermoquiet. I have Hawk LTS up front and Thermoquiets around back. I won't be needing to buy pads for a long time. BTW, i got brand new front rotors because of the rotor TSB, on trucks with build date 11/29/04 or earlier. Mine was an early 05, with build date of Oct. 04, so no problems, after i went to a second dealer. Got the usual hassle from first dealer. rossford

 

Brake Job day two: I got the rotors turned today and I started putting my truck back together. I got the front and the left rear side done. I go to do last part, the rear right side and I take one look at the caliper and the piston is extended way too far out and the rubber sheath has come off and the plastic cylinder is showing. I tried to push it back in and brake fluid squirted everywhere.

I disconnected the brake line at the bleeder screw and removed the caliper to try and put it back together. I managed to get the sleeve back on and I started to push the cylinder back and it got stuck.

So, does anyone know if you can rebuild the cylinder, or do I have to go and get a whole new caliper?

Thanks,
Rich

 

Sounds like somebody stepped on the brake pedal before everything was back together. Pistons just dont fall out of the calipers by themselves. In any case, you'll probably find it easier to find a rebuilt caliper than a rebuild kit. Nobody seems to carry rebuild kits anymore. There is a benefit though in that you'll get a correctly rebuilt caliper that might just work better than a home rebuilt one - unless you really know what you're doing.

Remember, there is a right and left caplier. The only difference is generally the location of the bleeder valve. It always has to face up. Remember to bleed the system since it's now been open and do it gently / carefully. Vehicles with ABS don't like to be bled hard for some reason.

 

No, I forgot to pen the reservoir before compressing the other calipers and it all built up in the last caliper. I ended up replacing both of the calipers in the rear. I rented a brake fluid sucker from Advance Autoparts that didn't work very well. I ended up putting about a half a can of brake fluid through the system to make sure there were no air bubbles.

The Haynes book I bought did not show a very good picture of the right and left calipers so I had to make an educated guess, and I put the bleeder valves on top, so I am pretty sure I am right.

It took 3 days and $250 but it is done, and I still saved $150 based on all the quotes I got from shops around town. On the plus side now I know exactly what to do for next time. I am pretty sure I will have to replace the rotors in a year and a half or so since they have been turned.

Thanks for the advice!
-Rich