Hello. I have a 2003 F-150 and just replaced all the pads for the 1st time, 41k miles. The pads were not worn down to the bare metal. I replaced them w/ the Wagner ThermoQuiets, and I seem to have a problem. Upon applying the breaks , as complete stop approaches, I can feel the rubbing/vibration occurring in the front brakes. Does this mean the rotor(s) is probably warped? Also, there is this sound coming from the left rear as the brakes are applied, would this be indicative of air in the lines? The pedal is firm when applied. Please help. I don't want to have to bend over and take it up my *** at a mechanic/dealer.

 

Did you have the rotors turned? If not I would say you have some warping going on. Some of the noise could be the pads breaking in or maybe lube not being were it should be.

Off subject, hows the blower project?

 

torkum, i did not have the rotors turned. also, i did not apply lube. what is used, and where does it go? i reused the stock pad backing plates, and i tightened the bolts on the caliper real tight. what would you advise i do? wait a week or so to see if the pads "break in", and then turn the front rotors or what? is warpage easily identified by looking at the rotor?

blower project: still acquiring parts. i am looking to acquire everything, then build up.

 

I would pull the rotors off and have them turned at a NAPA or CarQuest store [around $15 each]. As for the brake lube, it goes on the caliper bolts [not the threads, just the smooth part] and the backs of the pads where they make contact with the piston. I also dab a little in the corners where the pads slide on the calipers.
To check the rotors use a dial caliper and check across the rotor. I can usually feel it by running my finger across the rotor. When running your finger across it you will usually feel the drop off at the edge of the rotor.

 

thanks, torkum!

 

Yes, I second turning the rotors. It is not 100% necessary but makes me sleep better. As far as lube, aside from blue threadlock on the caliper bracket bolts, I use antisieze everywhere else. Clean the contact areas where the pads touch the caliper and bracket. Where ever the pad touches something, put some there too, especially the top and bottom points that ride in the slider of the caliper bracket. If you have this setup, 4x4 does, fold the tabs at each end of the slider anti rattle clips (should be included with pads) as they get pulled into the rotor, trust me!

 

i just realized that i had failed to drain fluid out of the master cylinder before compressing the pistons. what have i done/damaged by failing to do so?

EDIT: checked the master cylinder fluid level, doesn't appear to have forced itself out and overflowed, but the fluid is BLACK. should i bleed the brakes as well at this point?

more info: truck is 5.4L 4WD, has 4 disc brakes.

 

Your master should be ok, as the pads wear down the level of fluid goes down in the resevore and when you put new pads on the space is filed back up.
Flushing the lines would be a good maintenance thing to do just be prepared to bleed the lines 3-5 times all the way around if you let air into the system. Just don't let the resevore go dry!

 

thanks again, torkum.

 

Can you "turn the rotors" on the newer trucks?

 

yes you can, usually only once. I bought my truck used so I just replaced my rotors all together. I sleep better at night knowing whats been done, at least since I have owned it.

 

well, it turns out the driver side caliper was fuked. upon unbolting it a second time, one of the pistons fell out completely, and the rubber boot was torn. i am guessing this was due to the sh*tty condition the rotor was in, vibrating extremely. the front of the rotor looked okay, but the back side was worn down completely. Replaced caliper and rotor, and everything is going smoothly. i still need to go back and put locitite on the caliper bolts.

 

Guess you are ok this time but as a rule I always change the rubber hose when changing a caliper. They have a bad habit of collapsing internally and causing caliper problems.

 

I have heard no you cant because they have the sealed bearings pressed into them.

I agree with other posters, OP have your rotors turned if you havent already

 

they can still be turned

I'd replace them though