shakes when braking..
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#4
Just go a decent speed and give the pedal a hard even stop. If the shaking is in the steering wheel it’s the front and if you feel it in the brake pedal it’s the rear. If they are warped I would just replace them because a lot of times they are turned and few hundred miles they are warped again. Install powerslot rotors with hawk pads, torque them properly, and there wont be any problems. Your truck will stop better with the upgrades.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Central Coast, California
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You can always try the "do nothing" alternative. My '03 work truck shimmied like a belly dancer when braking (I assumed the front rotors were warped), and our mechanic refused to do anything about it. After about 20K miles of driving, the brakes are smooth as glass. Possibly the rotors were glazed, not warped?
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aftermarket pads are usually harder and tend to eat up the rotors faster. Its kinda a balancing game on what to buy. hard to do one with out the other and expect long term results
that being said im 60k have done two rotor turns, and two sets of pads up front, havent touched the rears, and will probably need to do 4w brakes in the next 10k
that being said im 60k have done two rotor turns, and two sets of pads up front, havent touched the rears, and will probably need to do 4w brakes in the next 10k
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#8
If your going with new rotors you should do pads as well. Even though they look good the pads and rotors wear together so there will be a wear patter on the pads. If you transfer them over you might end up with a noise or ruin the new rotors.
Last edited by bxstang2000; 07-08-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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The rotors were already turned once. I wouldn’t do it again. You don’t want to take too much material off or get close to the minimum thickness. The rotor will warp even easier since there is less metal.
I would play it safe and put a good rotor on. Your just wasting time and money cutting the rotors again.
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Well im sorry, but if you turn a rotor properly, you should beable to turn them atleast 2 times, and still have room before minimum thickness. If you take off more then that, you are either taking away way to much, or the pads went metal to metal.
Anyway, normally you make 2 cuts, .02 for 2 fast cuts, and .02 for a slow cut. Sometimes you can do one fast and 1 slow depending on how much warping there is.
Also, Napa has pads that have 2 different compositions. Inside and outside pads are different materal which is suppose to save rotor warping and pad longevity.
Also, YOU DO NOT NEED NEW PADS! Hell, if you have no rotor warping you can just pad slam and it will be perfectly fine. Just because your rotors are warped doesnt mean you have to get new pads. I dont know where you guys get all these ideas. Just cause Brake masters replaces all your parts everytime you go, doesnt mean it actually needs done.
Anyway, normally you make 2 cuts, .02 for 2 fast cuts, and .02 for a slow cut. Sometimes you can do one fast and 1 slow depending on how much warping there is.
Also, Napa has pads that have 2 different compositions. Inside and outside pads are different materal which is suppose to save rotor warping and pad longevity.
Also, YOU DO NOT NEED NEW PADS! Hell, if you have no rotor warping you can just pad slam and it will be perfectly fine. Just because your rotors are warped doesnt mean you have to get new pads. I dont know where you guys get all these ideas. Just cause Brake masters replaces all your parts everytime you go, doesnt mean it actually needs done.
Last edited by IR0NS1N; 07-08-2008 at 09:03 PM.
#13
Agreed. As previously mentioned by me, i have turned them twice and still have life in them. Helps to be able to do the work yourself