I thought I would post what I found on my ABS light being on. I took the truck for inspection and they wouldn't pass it because of this. So the hunt was on.

You might find this pretty boring to read, but READ ON, it might help you out, and save alot of headaches.

I searched the internet. I bought an ABS Scan tool, a rear sensor, electrical connectors, a volt/amp/ohm meter, a few tools, brake bleeder pump, membership to ALLDATADIY.com and probably a few other things. Not to mention money spent to use some garage space. A few hundred dollars at least.

Anyway, the inspection told me that I had a bad pump or a short but they didn't provide codes. Hence the purchase of the scanner which gave me a C1096 code, Hydraulic motor pump open switch.

Now from there I inspected all the wiring, (by looking at it) and went ahead and replaced the rear sensor thinking it was the cheapest way to start. Nope, wasn't the problem. None the less I did more research and tried a whole lot of various things.

A few days ago I was in traffic and noticed the Air Bag light flashing. I put the truck in park, and restarted with my foot on the brake. The air bag light went out and so did the ABS light. That is, until I took my foot off the pedal. Rational thinking led me to think to check the switch on the pedal. Replaced it thinking the contacts were bad. Nope...didn't work.

O.k. I'm at wits end. I talk to the Ford service guys and they think it's electrical. The wires looked good, and I tried all the other deals. The only thing I had left was to meter the wires to the EHCU, and the Pump. According to the alldata site pinpoint test. Apply meter to the plug at the front of the EHCU and test for voltage and resistance (Ohms) Did it, all checked out, and it states to replace the EHCU ($429.00 at Ford).

I remove the EHCU, As I had the mind set to send the unit off for refurbish, ($150.00 +shippinhg at absfixer.com). I started to cover the plugs to keep them clean or a week or so. While tapeing up the plug to the motor the RED WIRE BROKE! aaaAAHAHHHHHH F*(&(*^.

The RED WIRE was corroded right through. That solid corrosion green. Not a millimeter of copper visisble. The break left me with about 5 or so inches from the plug, and at the connection to the motor about
1/8th inch. I pulled the motor off the front of the aluminum block that the brake lines connect to. Having to pry back the bracket at the back of the motor/solonoid, and remove two small bolts at the front is all that holds it in place.

Once I got the motor out and cleaned the little bit of wire off the motor there was a spade connecter, but it was covered with the plastic/nylon. That was snipped away to reveal some of the spade, and the wire was snipped back about a half inch to reveal clean wire. The connections were made and soldered, then shrink tubing put over the connections, and everything was reinstalled.

IT WORKED. The light went out. Phewwww! right? hmmm. yeah. I put the ABS scanner back on it and got THREE (3) more codes. Here they are:

B1676 - Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range
C1185 - ABS Power Relay Output Circuit Failure
and YES C1096 - Hydraulic Pump Motor Open Circuit

Now I cleared the scanner of all previous codes and redid the scan. Same codes come up.

Mind you, I hadn't driven the truck yet, just started it and put the scanner on it. I can only hope the drive cycle resets everything like I have read a hundred times it should.

Any input would be great.

 

damn, that's a lot of hunting. my only input is hoping that you've fixed it.

I know how annoying a faulty abs system can be. After taking my last truck in for some front end work, it came out with the same front end squeal, plus a new found abs light. The abs was kicking in every time I hit the brakes and was driving me absolutely insane. After my "mechanic" (re:douchbag) told me it was normal, I knew he wasn't fixing it. I unpluged the abs system so it stopped normaly again without any abs, then sold the truck. I like the f-150.

Can you guess where I'll never take another vehicle?!?!?