I need new brakes
I need new brakes
My truck has about 28K miles on it and I can feel that it's time for some new brake pads. I can just replace the pads without having to get the rotors machined or something, right?
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by tardman91
My truck has about 28K miles on it and I can feel that it's time for some new brake pads. I can just replace the pads without having to get the rotors machined or something, right?
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
__________________
Jim
Jim
Originally Posted by tardman91
My truck has about 28K miles on it and I can feel that it's time for some new brake pads. I can just replace the pads without having to get the rotors machined or something, right?
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
Is replacing the pads easy? Something I can do myself? I would consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have all the tools I would assume I need. Is there any step-by-step posts to doing this? Preferably with pictures?
And that leads me to my next question. What pads should I get? I want something that will last, won't eat my rotors, won't put out all that horrible brake dust the factory ones do, and something that won't put me in the poor house.
I have a 2005 XLT 4x4 supercrew.
Thanks!
You can get by without machining the rotors, IF, you don't have and vibration from the front when you brake. And, depending on how they look. OF COURSE, if they are scarred, get them machined.
(edited) I forgot to mention I am also running Thermoquiets and I can't complain about the dust or the stopping power. I guess they have been on for about 30k miles now.

As for the pads, I agree you will get about a million different suggestions for that. Thermoquiets, Car Quest BLUES, a good semi-metalic pad should do you good. I don't like ceramic, and, will not reccommend them.
Last edited by KEITHHATTER; Dec 12, 2007 at 04:55 PM.
Originally Posted by KEITHHATTER
They are not hard at all to change. You will be fine. Given the mileage of your truck, you should have no problems.
You can get by without machining the rotors, IF, you don't have and vibration from the front when you brake. And, depending on how they look. OF COURSE, if they are scarred, get them machined.
As for the pads, I agree you will get about a million different suggestions for that. Thermoquiets, Car Quest BLUES, a good semi-metalic pad should do you good. I don't like ceramic, and, will not reccommend them.
You can get by without machining the rotors, IF, you don't have and vibration from the front when you brake. And, depending on how they look. OF COURSE, if they are scarred, get them machined.
As for the pads, I agree you will get about a million different suggestions for that. Thermoquiets, Car Quest BLUES, a good semi-metalic pad should do you good. I don't like ceramic, and, will not reccommend them.

__________________
Jim
Jim
At you're low mileage 28k, might not be a bad idea to at least turn the rotors, but need to? No, I just always do to true them up to the new pads. A fella with 1800 plus posts ought to know to search, but oh well, search "dust" or " Carquest blue" or "Wagner Thermo-quiet" and see what all is said about them for a few examples. I prefer semi-metallics with a warranty against noise, excessive wear etc. Carquest blues are made by Raybestos.
Changing is easy. Blue thread lock on the large caliper bracket bolts, anti-seize on the caliper bolts, and anywhere the caliper touches the pad. Coat lightly the slider where the pad "slides" on. DO NOT LET ANY OIL, ANTISEIZE OR ANYTHING STAY ON THE PAD OR ROTOR, CLEAN THOROUGHLY WITH BRAKE CLEANER. Another small tip is when re-assembling, put 2 lug nuts on to keep the rotor from wobbling, then the bracket and everything go on easier.
Changing is easy. Blue thread lock on the large caliper bracket bolts, anti-seize on the caliper bolts, and anywhere the caliper touches the pad. Coat lightly the slider where the pad "slides" on. DO NOT LET ANY OIL, ANTISEIZE OR ANYTHING STAY ON THE PAD OR ROTOR, CLEAN THOROUGHLY WITH BRAKE CLEANER. Another small tip is when re-assembling, put 2 lug nuts on to keep the rotor from wobbling, then the bracket and everything go on easier.
Last edited by BLUE20004X4; Dec 12, 2007 at 08:23 PM.
I am either getting the CarQuest blues or the ThermoQuiets, but now I need to know WHERE to get them? Who carries them?
The auto parts stores around me are:
Auto Zone
Advance
CarQuest - never been in there before
I think we have a NAPA
So where should I go to get either brakes? I need them by Saturday morning, so I don't have time to order them.
Thanks.
The auto parts stores around me are:
Auto Zone
Advance
CarQuest - never been in there before
I think we have a NAPA
So where should I go to get either brakes? I need them by Saturday morning, so I don't have time to order them.
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by tardman91
I am either getting the CarQuest blues or the ThermoQuiets, but now I need to know WHERE to get them? Who carries them?
The auto parts stores around me are:
Auto Zone
Advance
CarQuest - never been in there before
I think we have a NAPA
So where should I go to get either brakes? I need them by Saturday morning, so I don't have time to order them.
Thanks.
The auto parts stores around me are:
Auto Zone
Advance
CarQuest - never been in there before
I think we have a NAPA
So where should I go to get either brakes? I need them by Saturday morning, so I don't have time to order them.
Thanks.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Thermoquiets are great pads, but I may be a little biased, I'm an engineer that worked at THE plant that makes them for 5+ years(up until May of 07). But from what I've heard the Car Quest Blues are good as well. Of course you don't have to have your rotors turned, but it's simple, easy, and it allows the pads to properly seat to the rotors. I believe that if you don't have your rotors turned/replaced it will void your warranty on pads, but I'm not sure. It's easy to get your rotors off, I just replaced the pads and had rotors turned on my 04 SCREW with 82,000 on it. Take some WD-40, or Break-Free(Black Can, I believe Wal-Mart sells it, should be able to get it at Advance, Auto-Zone, O'Reilly, etc) and spray around the studs, and down into the vents of the rotors(on the edge of the rotors) and let them set for 5 mins or so. Then take a rubber mallet, or dead blow hammer, NOTHING STEEL, as that might damage your rotors and give it a couple of good blows on the rotor surface around the lugs. It might take 10-15 blows but the rotors will break free and release. It's not hard at all, just give the WD-40/Break-Free time to work. O'reilly can turn your rotors for $12 a peice, and can normally do a set in an hour, so you can get started on Sat. morning and be done by Sat. afternoon.
i use the thermoquiets, never had a problem. As far as the rotors, i turn them (machine them) just because i do it free (auto shop class). however it really isn't needed, when they get really bad just put new ones on. i think that they are something like $30/ea.



