brake questions
brake questions
Hi guys, I am getting ready to do a brake line replacement on my 1998, 2wd F150 with rear ABS and have a few questions if you don't mind. The other day I pulled out of the driveway and one of the lines blew under the drivers door causing the pedal to hit the floor. I pumped it a few times and nothing. I thought that with the dual chamber master cylinder this wasn't supposed to happen, am I mistaken? I knew these lines were ready for replacement but I don't drive the truck much with the gas prices so I was hoping for warmer weather to do this, but while I'm at it I will do everything.
I was doing some searching and reading here before I started the job and saw in another post someone said the lines didn't use a double flare anymore, it was now an ISO flare, is this correct? I'm not familiar with that type of flare so any insight would be appreciated.
It's been about 15 years since I did a line replacement and that was on a 10 year old car so any tips or tricks regarding ABS, bleeding procedures that I'm not aware of, or anything else you think I should know would be helpful. I have a bender and a tubing cutter but will hopefully borrow the flare tool from auto zone.
I'd like to thank you guys ahead of time for your responses, you have saved me a bunch of money in the past on repair bills, including cleaning a mass air flow sensor instead of the $200 replacement the shop wanted, and a $15 dollar heater blower relay instead of the $400 to replace the whole blower I was quoted.
I was doing some searching and reading here before I started the job and saw in another post someone said the lines didn't use a double flare anymore, it was now an ISO flare, is this correct? I'm not familiar with that type of flare so any insight would be appreciated.
It's been about 15 years since I did a line replacement and that was on a 10 year old car so any tips or tricks regarding ABS, bleeding procedures that I'm not aware of, or anything else you think I should know would be helpful. I have a bender and a tubing cutter but will hopefully borrow the flare tool from auto zone.
I'd like to thank you guys ahead of time for your responses, you have saved me a bunch of money in the past on repair bills, including cleaning a mass air flow sensor instead of the $200 replacement the shop wanted, and a $15 dollar heater blower relay instead of the $400 to replace the whole blower I was quoted.
Last edited by jerkin; Mar 17, 2007 at 11:25 AM.
most parts stores sell brake line already preflared with the fittings all set to go.3/16 if i recall. just bleed like regualar brakes. i replaced my rear line from cylinder all the way back to axle. if you disconnect the line at the master your probably going to have to bleed all the wheels. its good to replace the brake fluid every few years anyway. i have a 97 with rear abs. not sure about 4 wheel abs bleeding procedue though. never had to open up a 4 wheel system.as for the dual master cylinders those are requird by law as far as i know. that started in the late 70s early 80s.
I backed the truck in the garage after I posted yesterday and did have some front brakes, although very little. The pedal would bottom out but I could stop, at least going slow. I got the lines off today and one of them has a double flare at one end and an ISO or bubble flare, whatever you call it, on the other. I wasn't really expecting that but the auto parts store has flare tools for both types so it shouldn't be too bad. Hopefully I'll have time one night this week to bend the lines and put it back together. Sure would be nice to have the money to trade it in on a nice new extended cab, 4wd, F250
most parts places have all those connections. just bring the old one with you. if there is a napa near you got there they have a pretty good stock of brake fittings etc... they should be all 3/16 size. the line that goes to the master to the abs valve block is a differnt size but you can get adapter to screw right on so it should be no problem.
Last edited by keith97xlt; Mar 19, 2007 at 01:18 PM.


