4WABS problems

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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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4WABS problems

I sure could use some help and advice. My 2000 F-150's (189,000 miles) ABS light came on just before I had a major brake job on the front end (metal on metal) and would not go off after the new brakes. I went to the dealer after another shop could not get the codes read. They diagnosed the module as being bad and replaced three fuses that had toasted. They wanted $730 for the work which I declined and promptly went to the wrecking yard and picked up a motor/module unit for $130. I just swapped over the module which did not kill the ABS light. I disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes too in hopes to reset everything as well. Still no dice.

Should I replace the pump too? My parking brake light is not on. Thanks for any advice you may give.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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What was the ABS code? My first thought is, did anybody clean the metal shavings off the ABS sensors at the wheel?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by torkum
What was the ABS code? My first thought is, did anybody clean the metal shavings off the ABS sensors at the wheel?
I need to check the sensor. It's 4 wheel drive, is the sensor accessable?

The dealer receipt does not really state the code, unless it is embedded in the information. It could be 1236. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 01:29 AM
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The sensor is accessable from the back of the Hub / Spindle assembly. The cable from it runs up to the fender liner.

It is secured with a small trox screw.

I don't know how metal shaving could get in there as the hub is sealed. And a bad sensor should have thrown a code, that the dealer would have caught.

The front ABS sensors are about $150, I know the dealer would have loved to sell you one of them.

You might want to replace the sensor in the rear differential, they tend to fail frequently and are under $20.

Good luck,
Doug
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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I checked the resistance of all sensors and they are within specs. Would they be if they had metal filings stuck to them? What about the motor on the ABS unit? I had all the fuses blow. I doubt a bad sensor would cause that kind of overload. The motor itself read 1,400 K ohms while the one from the junk yard read about 5. Thanks again for all of the responses.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Problem corrected

Well, I replaced the hydraulic assembly below the module, bled the lines, and it works! The problem was the motor on the assembly had burned out.
 
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