after pad install?'s
#1
#4
Trying to spin with the wheel off is far more difficult than spinning with the wheel on. This is because of rotational inertia (the wheel adds weight in rotation which makes it want to rotate more and acts against brake drag) and torque physics (if the tires are on you're applying force from 15"-17" away from the center hub, whereas if you're turning by the studs you're only 2"-3" from the hub, thus having the wheel on gives 5-8 times as much rotational torque as just turning the rotors. After installing my PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads I could hardly move the rotors at all before putting the wheels & tires on, then could spin them, but they didn't make a full revolution.
Make sure you do a proper bedding in process for your new pads and rotors, or you'll greatly reduce their performance and life expectance. For more info on this you can search the "Brakes" forum.
Make sure you do a proper bedding in process for your new pads and rotors, or you'll greatly reduce their performance and life expectance. For more info on this you can search the "Brakes" forum.
#5
Originally posted by ucfperspicere
Trying to spin with the wheel off is far more difficult than spinning with the wheel on. This is because of rotational inertia (the wheel adds weight in rotation which makes it want to rotate more and acts against brake drag) and torque physics (if the tires are on you're applying force from 15"-17" away from the center hub, whereas if you're turning by the studs you're only 2"-3" from the hub, thus having the wheel on gives 5-8 times as much rotational torque as just turning the rotors. After installing my PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads I could hardly move the rotors at all before putting the wheels & tires on, then could spin them, but they didn't make a full revolution.
Make sure you do a proper bedding in process for your new pads and rotors, or you'll greatly reduce their performance and life expectance. For more info on this you can search the "Brakes" forum.
Trying to spin with the wheel off is far more difficult than spinning with the wheel on. This is because of rotational inertia (the wheel adds weight in rotation which makes it want to rotate more and acts against brake drag) and torque physics (if the tires are on you're applying force from 15"-17" away from the center hub, whereas if you're turning by the studs you're only 2"-3" from the hub, thus having the wheel on gives 5-8 times as much rotational torque as just turning the rotors. After installing my PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads I could hardly move the rotors at all before putting the wheels & tires on, then could spin them, but they didn't make a full revolution.
Make sure you do a proper bedding in process for your new pads and rotors, or you'll greatly reduce their performance and life expectance. For more info on this you can search the "Brakes" forum.
#6
[i]Make sure you do a proper bedding in process for your new pads and rotors, or you'll greatly reduce their performance and life expectance. For more info on this you can search the "Brakes" forum. [/B]
Thanks.
#7
Originally posted by noirluispher
Search for Brakes brings up a billion pages. Could you write of a quick description on "bedding"?
Thanks.
Search for Brakes brings up a billion pages. Could you write of a quick description on "bedding"?
Thanks.
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#9
Originally posted by lees99f150
All you need to do is drive easy for the first couple of hundred miles and try not to slam on the brakes.
All you need to do is drive easy for the first couple of hundred miles and try not to slam on the brakes.
Do 4-6 stops from about 25 miles per hour, then let the brakes cool fully (at least an hour or so). Then do 6-8 reps from 50 to 5 miles per hour (without stopping fully), and allow to cool fully again. Then drive about 10 miles making 3-5 moderately hard stops from 50 mph. Then finish the first 500 miles after installation without braking too hard and without braking at excessively high speeds (over 65 mph).
But you do whatever you want. To me, with these relatively expensive parts ($500 for a full set of rotors and another $150 for pads), I'd want to make sure I do it right.
Jeff
#11
ctilander, Welcome to the forum.
If you look through old posts in this section, it's evident that Ford brakes (rotors) are less than the industry's best, to say the least. To answer your question more directly, it's not normal industry-wide (and not acceptable), but it is a fairly regular occurence for Ford vehicles, especially trucks. Why Ford has shown no initiative - or even desire for that matter - to correct this only major flaw of their truck line is beyond me. Anyway, you ought to browse through this section of the forum for more info on other people's experiences.
I'd recommend taking it back to the manufacturer (a Ford dealership) and demanding that they replace the rotors. If you let them just turn them it will happen again, this time quicker. But, like I said, peruse the forum for more info.
Good luck.
Jeff
If you look through old posts in this section, it's evident that Ford brakes (rotors) are less than the industry's best, to say the least. To answer your question more directly, it's not normal industry-wide (and not acceptable), but it is a fairly regular occurence for Ford vehicles, especially trucks. Why Ford has shown no initiative - or even desire for that matter - to correct this only major flaw of their truck line is beyond me. Anyway, you ought to browse through this section of the forum for more info on other people's experiences.
I'd recommend taking it back to the manufacturer (a Ford dealership) and demanding that they replace the rotors. If you let them just turn them it will happen again, this time quicker. But, like I said, peruse the forum for more info.
Good luck.
Jeff