HELP PLEASE, Rotors keep warping
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 353
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From: Southwest PA
I had BruteStop rotors from Raybestos on the front of my 99 EC 4wd. What one of the other people mentioned about hills and stopping is absolutly correct, as these conditions are what i face everyday. The crossdrilled and slotted rotors didn't warp or exhibit any shake during braking but wore pads out like no ones business.
The runout issue is a very valid point also, and the only way to help combat this is to have the rotors cut or trued by a shop that has and on the car brake lathe. this way they are cut or trued to the hub assembly, just make sure that when the shop does this they torque the lugnuts to the same spec as the wheel is torqued to. Otherwise you are paying for nothing.
The one thing you don't want to do is go in to the shop and act like a know it all or imply they don't know what they are doing, unless they repeated demonstrate this fact.
The runout issue is a very valid point also, and the only way to help combat this is to have the rotors cut or trued by a shop that has and on the car brake lathe. this way they are cut or trued to the hub assembly, just make sure that when the shop does this they torque the lugnuts to the same spec as the wheel is torqued to. Otherwise you are paying for nothing.
The one thing you don't want to do is go in to the shop and act like a know it all or imply they don't know what they are doing, unless they repeated demonstrate this fact.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,376
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Re: Rotor/Brake Combo
Originally posted by bamacpl
I am gonna change my Brakes & Rotors...I am gonna go with drilled/slotted rotors...What would be the best rotor/brake combination? I want very good quality!
I am gonna change my Brakes & Rotors...I am gonna go with drilled/slotted rotors...What would be the best rotor/brake combination? I want very good quality!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,714
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From: The LBC (Long Beach, CA)
Top-shelf exotics like Prosches & Ferraris often have cross-drilled rotors, so they can't be all bad...
I'm sure each rotor type has it's pros and cons. IMHO the most important thing is to make sure you buy from a quality manufacturer.
A crappy cross-drilled/slotted rotor is still just a crappy rotor.
I'm sure each rotor type has it's pros and cons. IMHO the most important thing is to make sure you buy from a quality manufacturer.
A crappy cross-drilled/slotted rotor is still just a crappy rotor.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Susquehanna Valley, pa.
I had x drilled rotors (auto specialties) on my stang. After about 3k miles they started to crack from the x drilled holes to the outer edge. soon after the cracked got so bad I could slide a dollar bill in the crack. These were quality rotors ($200 each). there is no need for x drilled rotors with the pad technology these days.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: The LBC (Long Beach, CA)
I ran AP cross-drilled rotors for 25K miles with no problems...no problems until a stuck caliper dug a trench into one.
Couldn't afford another set of APs, so I got a set of Quickstop cross-drilled rotors about 5K miles ago. The quality is pretty good, they use Federal Mogul blanks.
Sounds like some ppl have problens with cross-drilled rotors, but not everyone does. If I had problems, I'd likely not recommend them, but I've never had a problem
Couldn't afford another set of APs, so I got a set of Quickstop cross-drilled rotors about 5K miles ago. The quality is pretty good, they use Federal Mogul blanks.
Sounds like some ppl have problens with cross-drilled rotors, but not everyone does. If I had problems, I'd likely not recommend them, but I've never had a problem