Not really but they feel like it. I have pounded pounded and beat the snot out of my rotors on both sides to no avail. I heated with a torch and that didn't seem to help. Now I read that I should have cut the rotors down to the hub and then split them - I am going to try this tonight with a sawzall. I hope I didn't ruin the bearings with all the pounding and heating.

Any other ideas - I guess I'm just venting my frustrations with these rotors. Anti sieze has always been a first and foremost on any brake jobs.


Silver Bullet

 

Had thte same problem; do a search for more info on this problem

 

Dude,

Take the nut off

 

dude, seriously, like the guy above. the nut holds your wheel bearings on, and your rotor will not come off like they will on a front wheel drive car. the rotor also serves as a hub. i hope i am not too late, but when you take the nut off, you will have to have a machine shop press the races out, and get new ones if they are worn

 

Slide off rotors are only on the 4X's. The two wheel drive models require you to remove the entire hub Assy, ( like the old days)

PS new rotors come with new races. If you replace the bearings in your old rotor/hub you can remove them with a straight punch and replace with a bearing tool.

 

Sorry I didn't mention it before but I have the 4WD version so I have sealed hub bearing assembly. The rotors still were on so tight I could not get them off even heating them. I eventually had to use a puller to push the axel shaft through the hub and then take the bearing hub assembly out with the rotor. Then had to cut the rotor inorder for it to come off. Sorry for the confusion.

Silver Bullet

 

Silver Bullet,

For the record I give you more credit than that, I was just kidding about taking the nut off

 

I had the same problem. It took me three hours. They eventually came apart after heating them until they were red and hitting them with a 3 pound sledge hammer. I was so happy that we got them apart. I put everything back together and took it for a drive and found out that I had damaged the right wheel bearing. I had to take it apart again and change the bearing/hub. That cost me another $170 for the part. When I put the new rotors on I put a thin layer of anti-seize on the hub. I hope this will help me the next time I have to change the rotors.

 

Take some penetrating oil and spray onto the hub area. Let sit for a few minutes and then tap the hub lightly with a hammer in between the lugs. Careful not to hit the lugs!

If that doesn't work, hit the outter diameter with the hammer but be sure to place a piece of wood in between and hit with wood..

 

And DO NOT EVER HIT THE ROTORS FROM BEHIND!! Always hit them towards the truck and/or just around the rim as noted above.

If you smack them from behind you will slightly offset them and they will now never ever come off unless you cut them off!

 

Wow, I just got my rotors off, what a job.....I ended up pounding with a mall from the back side .... It was either that or cut a split in them like someone recommended. Now Im worried about the bearings?? Will be putting it back together today.... I had them off a year ago, put antiseize arround the center & lugs, the rust that causes the problem builds up between the hub and rotor on the inside, like there is not enough space between the hub edge and the rotor, thats where the problem buildup is!!

I changed from ceramic pads back to standard, had the ceramic (raybestos) warp my rotors from heat buildup, also pads were cracked....about 1 year, so goes my better idea........

 

Hey, changing the rotors just about wore me out. I never even considered trying to cut and split. That would have been just as difficult without a cutting torch.

I was finally ably to pound them into submission and it took awhile too- did this project over the summer. I hit them as hard as a felt was safe enough front and back, front and back... PB blaster, on and on and finally broke them.

 

I just changed mine last night. 2001 f-150 4x4 74,000 miles. I appreciate the good info and contriburors on this site.

The job went well as I was prepared for the worst. I put it on 4 jack stands and removed all 4 wheels. Then sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 rotors around the spindle and the lug studs while the rotors were still warm. Let it sit for 10 minutes. I put the lug nuts on the studs to prevent damage and used a regular framing hammer to do some pounding. I hit the rotors about 15 times each, very hard, between the studs. I then sprayed them again with the BPB and waited another 10 minutes.

Back to the hammer and it only took about 10 more hits each to break them loose. I hit them about 3 times on the left then 3 on the right, then left then right .... When I could see them moving, I just pulled and they came right off.

I went back with some Wagners from O'Riely and we'll see how they perform.

 

FWIW, I did mine at 25k and had zero problems. I had anti-seized the rotors at the first tire rotation (5000 miles). (Voice of experience talking) if you beat the rotors to get them off, and ended up pulling the hub anyways, replace it. The bearings brinnell fairly easily and you'll likely be pulling it apart again in about 5000 miles.

-Joe

 

Be sure to coat the inside of the rotor / outer edge of the hub, those of us in the salt belt will have more problems. I replaced the pads at 55k no problem, rotors were loose, 60k replaced pads (cheap pads dusted too much) again rotors were loose, this time with the ceramic, at 70k replaced ceramic, rotors were rusted tight!! This was the first I had them turned, I had used anti seize arround the center hub and lugs from the outside but wow it got me good ......