Here's the method I used:
I cut (as mentioned on a few posts) up to the hat area. I then drove a big Craftsman screwdriver into the crack (like a wedge), and hit it until the hat cracked about 1" along the side. This crack gave it enough clearance to come off (with a few taps of the hammer).
I did not have to touch the face of the hat part (where the stud holes are). It was intact. The side craked enough to let the rotor come off with some tapping on the back of the disc.

 

What kind of threadlocker (if any) should be used on the caliper bracket bolts? I had a friend (who is a machinist) recommend against red Loctite, since it is so hard to remove. Is blue suficient? Ford uses that preapplied yellow stuff on their fasteners, it's a dry yellow coating. Any recommendations?
Otherwise, my brakes are great now.
Thanks.

 

The factory bolt I replaced at Easter had yellow threadlocker on it.
This weekend I could not remove that bolt with all my might. So it's still holding.

However all the other bolts were removable.

So I applied "blue" threadlocker to the remaining 3 bolts.

 

You wouldn't happen to be in the Northeast would you? I had to cut my rotors off too because the rotors had rusted so that a lip was formed behind the hub. What a PITA. When I went to take the drums off recently, I bought a 10 pound sledge and gave them a few "taps", they loosened right up.

 

I use blue Loctite and torque 'em down to German torque. Gutentight. That's on the bracket to spindle bolts. The caliper to bracket bolts, I put on dry with just a little caliper grease on it.