Hello, all:

I took my truck (2001 XLT Sport SuperCab 2wd) to Midas today for a brake inspection b/c I had a slight grinding sound when applying the pedal at low speeds. They said that I needed the front pads done, and that they could machine the rotors. Altogether, with Thermoquiet ceramic pads, they wanted $158.35+tax. He told me they were pretty bad and that I should drive as little as possible until I fix them. So, here are te questions:

1) How big a job is it to do these myself? I do a fair amount of work on our vehicles, so I trust in my ability to do this, but I have never done it.

2) Exactly what will I need. Please be specific. Chances are the wife will have her car at work when I do this, so I would like to get everything I need at the parts store the first trip. (Yeah, right).

3) What are the best pads that I should be able to find locally? I would like to order from a place like TireRack, but time dictates otherwise. We have O'Riley's, Autozone, NAPA, and a couple local-owned places.

4) Is this worth doing myself? At Midas, their estimate was like this:
Thermoquiet ceramic pads $49.95
Grease Seal $ 5.98
Install Pads $40.00
Resurface 2 rotors $36.00
Bearing repack $21.95
Shop Supplies $ 4.47
Are these pads any good? I am pretty much broke right now, but if I can get some better parts, DIY it, and still save some bucks, I'm happy.

Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance.

James

 

pad replacement is a fairly easy job. get a good sized metric socket for the caliper bolt (20 mm or so, and i would get a cheater bar to make sure you get them retightened really good. i put on raybestos quietstop ceramic pads (from auto zone). They came with new anti rattle springs so get pads that come with new anti rattle clips (cheapo pads may not come with antirattle clips ). you'll need a strong piece of wire (metal clothes hangar) to keep the caliper suspended while you are changing the pads. Dont let the caliper hang unsupported by the brake hose. Get one (i'd buy 2) cans of brake kleen product and spray the rotors/brake pads really well to clean them. (brake dust is nasty to your health) You'll need a catch pan and some rags. of course basic stuff like misc tools, a good shop light and jack stands are required. if you are going to resurface the rotors then you will need transport to the shop to get that done. Getting the rotors off can be a bear so you will need some penetrating oil (i like pb blaster) and probably a hammer. Get bearing grease that is for high temperature applications. you'll need a solvent (gasoline will work) to clean the bearings with. you'll need some special grease for the caliper slides and also some antisqueal compound for the back side of the pads. Be sure and pack the grease really well into the bearings and put good amt of grease around the spindle. Buy a haynes manual--about $12 but well worth it if you are going to do your own repairs. Or maybe the library has it. and it's a good idea to go back with a new cotter pin, and you might discover that you will need a new bearing grease dust cap (you have to pry the cap off with a small screwdriver or similiar tool and the cap lip is easy to damage. i am still using original caps on my 97 so if you go slow they will come off). . From my experience, the brake shops often quote a fairly low number to get your vehicle on the rack and then hit you with all kinds of extra charges. Not saying the extra services were not needed, it's just that when you walk out hte door the $150 brake job costs you $250. i dont know anything about "thermoquiet" brand but the raybestos are a good brand and they cost a lot more than $50 a pair. I wouldnt low ball the replacement pads, shop around and get pads that are at least in the mid quality range. if you have access to a torque wrench, the caliper anchor bracket bolts are 125 to 160 foot pounds, lug nugs should be torqued to 100. good luck.

 

also, you'll need a "C" clamp to compress the caliper piston bores. The pistons will usually extend a little when you take off the caliper. Just put a piece of wood or a flat metal wrench across both piston bores and tighten the clamp.

 

AAAHHH...don't use gasoline as a solvent..not good for the skin,liver(does get absorbed through the skin) or the garage when the water heater kicks on...a couple of more tips...when you go to remove the rotor give it a couple of good smacks with a hammer inward then pull it off...also have the rotors vate cleaned if possible when you get them turned..use the spray anti squell,much neater..also pick up some new dust covers for the caliper guide bolts along with the high temp brake grease...if the hoses going to the caliper have any kind of cracking on the outside of them they will need to be replaced...also have the brakes flushed then bled...good luck

 

texford, agreed--if a person uses gasoline as a solvent extra care must be taken (i use plastic gloves and work outside for ventilation which is not a problem weather wise in houston). But we are just talking a maximum of 4 or 5 ounces of gas. I just put the dirty gas into the containers i use to catch my engine oil changes and recycle it by pouring the whole container into the walmart recycle vat.