Replacing 4x2 Rotors
#1
Replacing 4x2 Rotors
1997 4x2 84,000 miles.
I'm replacing my unbelievably warped front rotors this weekend and want to make sure I have everything I'll need.
The procedure doesn't seem too complicated, but I've never done this before.
I'm replacing my unbelievably warped front rotors this weekend and want to make sure I have everything I'll need.
- NAPA rotors/hubs (because I can buy them at cost)
- Axle seals
- Bearing Grease
- Cotter pins
The procedure doesn't seem too complicated, but I've never done this before.
- Do the new 4x2 rotors/hubs have wheel studs installed or will I need to transfer the old ones to the new hub assembly?
- Do I also need to replace the pads? They are OEM pads with about 20,000 miles. If it is best to replace pads at the same time, what material?
- Is there anything else in the caliper system that would have worn out by 84,000 miles? Do I need slide pins? Anti-Rattle clips?
#2
AJ
I would go ahead and put inner and outer bearings in also. They are cheap and its easy while its apart. The rotors and hubs are one piece with the studs installed. Mke sure you bleed the brake system real good but don't run the master cylinder dry. Go easy on the brakes the 1st 500 miles or so and you should be good to go.
BTW. What pads are you gonna use?
Frank
I would go ahead and put inner and outer bearings in also. They are cheap and its easy while its apart. The rotors and hubs are one piece with the studs installed. Mke sure you bleed the brake system real good but don't run the master cylinder dry. Go easy on the brakes the 1st 500 miles or so and you should be good to go.
BTW. What pads are you gonna use?
Frank
#3
Originally posted by poolvibe
What pads are you gonna use?
What pads are you gonna use?
#4
I have never tried ceramics. i hear they are great for keeping your wheels clean. i use carbon metallics on mine because i put a lot of miles on my truck and I can walk into auto-zone and get a new set for free whenever i want. they are supposed to run cooler than ceramics or semi metallics. make sure you lube the slide pins the caliper hangs on really well so you don't chew up your nice new rotors. i learned this the hard way. In general napa tends to be of good quality so i would feel pretty safe with any of thier products.
PS youll need grease seals too....
PS youll need grease seals too....
#5
#6
Originally posted by poolvibe
BTW have i seen you at www.bobistheoilguy.com
BTW have i seen you at www.bobistheoilguy.com
I decided to go with the Cermix because I've heard good reviews. As for the brake job: Thanks for the advise. I'm sure that as long as I can get the caliper off, I can figure out the rest without a problem.
#7
The job is done
It was actually much more straightforward and simple than I'd imagined. Even though I had to replace the bearings, rather than simply sliding the rotor off the studs, the rotors weren't rusted on like so many 4x4s. The 2nd set only took about 15-20 minutes, from the time I removed the wheel, until everything was back together and off the jack stand.
I just got back from breaking them in.... Lots of 30-5mph slow-downs and then 60-20mph, then 60-5mph. Feeling the truck smoothly decelerate instead if bounce up and down is an odd feeling after so many miles on bad brakes.
They didn't have the Ceramix pads, so I used semi-metallic instead. New rotors, pads and bearings for under $170.00
I plan on changing all of the brake fluid today.
It was actually much more straightforward and simple than I'd imagined. Even though I had to replace the bearings, rather than simply sliding the rotor off the studs, the rotors weren't rusted on like so many 4x4s. The 2nd set only took about 15-20 minutes, from the time I removed the wheel, until everything was back together and off the jack stand.
I just got back from breaking them in.... Lots of 30-5mph slow-downs and then 60-20mph, then 60-5mph. Feeling the truck smoothly decelerate instead if bounce up and down is an odd feeling after so many miles on bad brakes.
They didn't have the Ceramix pads, so I used semi-metallic instead. New rotors, pads and bearings for under $170.00
I plan on changing all of the brake fluid today.