replacing rotors
#1
#2
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by sigmanu1524:
I hope i did not need to replace my rotors. I just did the brake pad but i did not see anythign wrong with the rotors, how can you tell besides looking at them? When i brake sometimes my wheel moves back and forth- is this formthe balancing of the tires.?</font>
I hope i did not need to replace my rotors. I just did the brake pad but i did not see anythign wrong with the rotors, how can you tell besides looking at them? When i brake sometimes my wheel moves back and forth- is this formthe balancing of the tires.?</font>
#3
sigmanu1524- With age and mileage the rotor's surface becomes burnished. It looses it's effective friction and creates heat (which can warp the rotor). Turning the rotor removes this "surface" and trues up the concentric rotation. You generally measure the rotor thickness and the runout. The visual inspection is considered a starting point.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
#4