My Brakes Really Suck...
I just can't believe how bad my brakes are, I mean, I know that I have a large vehicle, but they are really poor...takes forever to stop, and I really gotta stand on them. Fluids OK, Pads have plenty of life...etc.
Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, did you just replace with new rotors and pads, high performance etc...??
Thanks in advance,
T
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer, 5.4l, Airaid Intake
Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, did you just replace with new rotors and pads, high performance etc...??
Thanks in advance,
T
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer, 5.4l, Airaid Intake
Tom:
I concur with your assessment of the brakes on these Ford trucks, at least on my '97 4x4 SuperCab. Emergency panic stops can be terrifying, or worse.
I have read quite a few threads on F-150 Online that the pistons in the brake calipers become corroded and bind, thereby reducing effective stopping power.
Regarding other pads, rotors, etc. to replace the ones on your truck, I am unable to give any first-hand knowledge, still having O.E.M. on my truck. However, search the Brakes forum and you'll find reams of good information.
Good Luck.
Wilk
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'97 F-150 4x4 Super Cab; XLT 139" Wheelbase Flairside; Silver Frost Clearcoat; 4.6L. (Romeo); 4-spd Automatic Transmission; Preferred Equipment Package 507A; 3.55 Limited Slip Axle; Electronic Shift 4x4; California Emissions; Sliding Rear Window; Trailer Towing Package; Off-Road Package; 6-Way Power Driver's Seat; Remote Keyless Entry/Anti Theft; 6-Disc CD Changer; Ford Bedliner; Ford Running Boards; Ford 600 Plus Vehicle Security System; Ford Nose Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover; Ford PremiumCare Extended Service Plan (5 year/100,000 miles).
2000 SVT F-150 LIGHTNING XLT; 120" Wheelbase; Flareside; 5.4L EFI SOHC V8 SC Engine; 4-SPD Automatic; Silver Clearcoat Metallic; SVT Online Store Lightning Front End Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
I concur with your assessment of the brakes on these Ford trucks, at least on my '97 4x4 SuperCab. Emergency panic stops can be terrifying, or worse.
I have read quite a few threads on F-150 Online that the pistons in the brake calipers become corroded and bind, thereby reducing effective stopping power.
Regarding other pads, rotors, etc. to replace the ones on your truck, I am unable to give any first-hand knowledge, still having O.E.M. on my truck. However, search the Brakes forum and you'll find reams of good information.
Good Luck.
Wilk
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'97 F-150 4x4 Super Cab; XLT 139" Wheelbase Flairside; Silver Frost Clearcoat; 4.6L. (Romeo); 4-spd Automatic Transmission; Preferred Equipment Package 507A; 3.55 Limited Slip Axle; Electronic Shift 4x4; California Emissions; Sliding Rear Window; Trailer Towing Package; Off-Road Package; 6-Way Power Driver's Seat; Remote Keyless Entry/Anti Theft; 6-Disc CD Changer; Ford Bedliner; Ford Running Boards; Ford 600 Plus Vehicle Security System; Ford Nose Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover; Ford PremiumCare Extended Service Plan (5 year/100,000 miles).
2000 SVT F-150 LIGHTNING XLT; 120" Wheelbase; Flareside; 5.4L EFI SOHC V8 SC Engine; 4-SPD Automatic; Silver Clearcoat Metallic; SVT Online Store Lightning Front End Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
I don't know if your Expi has rear drums, but I know the F Series in '97 all had rear drums and they have a problem. They don't self-adjust all that well and need regular adjusting.
Chances are, they aren't working as well as they should be and your front discs are doing all the work.
I had a '97 and the dealer adjusted the rear drums at 10,000 miles and I could definitely feel the difference when I got the truck back.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 04-18-2001).]
Chances are, they aren't working as well as they should be and your front discs are doing all the work.
I had a '97 and the dealer adjusted the rear drums at 10,000 miles and I could definitely feel the difference when I got the truck back.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 04-18-2001).]
Actually, they are discs...I popped the wheel off the other night, and tried to lube the slides, but that did no good. Still sound like they are binding or something.
I think I might take it to a brake shop during lunch and see what they think.
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer, 5.4l, Airaid Intake
I think I might take it to a brake shop during lunch and see what they think.
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer, 5.4l, Airaid Intake
Just remember how heavy your truck is...
IS there any wear on the rear pads? If not, then you have a problem.
You could try a different pad compound. These pads are expensive (80-100 bucks an axle), but I have had good luck with them on my 150.
At least you have discs in the back, my 150 has drums, and they hook up a little too well...
IS there any wear on the rear pads? If not, then you have a problem.
You could try a different pad compound. These pads are expensive (80-100 bucks an axle), but I have had good luck with them on my 150.
At least you have discs in the back, my 150 has drums, and they hook up a little too well...
Given the recent post about the rears needing frequent adjusting, I have a question.
I have an 1997 F250 Lariat LD with about 68K on it. I took the truck to the dealer to investigate a few problems last week, one being the brakes not feeling like they were doing much anymore.
The dealer looked at the truck and at the end of the day said that the pads, rotors, drums, etc. were all in fine condition. The drums may need to be done later in the year he estimated.
Charged me about $22.00 for inspecting the brakes and they still don't feel right. I also noted to him that the emergency brake doesn't appear to hold the truck if engaged and you drive in forward or reverse.
It sounds to me like perhaps the rears need adjusting and that he overlooked this part.
Does that sound like a possibilty? Is this adjustment difficult or better left to trained mechanics?
I have an 1997 F250 Lariat LD with about 68K on it. I took the truck to the dealer to investigate a few problems last week, one being the brakes not feeling like they were doing much anymore.
The dealer looked at the truck and at the end of the day said that the pads, rotors, drums, etc. were all in fine condition. The drums may need to be done later in the year he estimated.
Charged me about $22.00 for inspecting the brakes and they still don't feel right. I also noted to him that the emergency brake doesn't appear to hold the truck if engaged and you drive in forward or reverse.
It sounds to me like perhaps the rears need adjusting and that he overlooked this part.
Does that sound like a possibilty? Is this adjustment difficult or better left to trained mechanics?
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Tom I have found out thru many years driving Fords that they all have there own Personalaty.Heres a tip i found works for me. Go to the mall and back up hold the gas on and pump the brake pedal hard at least ten times. If you dont push hard the valve wont open to the rear brakes.Give it a try cant hurt...Good luck Oldgray
The rear drum brake adjusters only work when you stop while reversing. So, you could do several quick stops while going in reverse. I doubt if this will work very well with these trucks, though.
The adjustment is easy to do, but I would go to a friendly mechanic to learn how to do it. You could buy a special tool to do it or you could just use a big screwdriver.
A trip to the bookstore or library would also give you the information you need. It's very hard to describe what you need to do without showing a diagram or picture.
Basically, what you do is you manually turn the adjuster to make the brake shoes contact the drum, then you back it off to where it just barely stops contact with the drum.
If you know how to do it, you should be able to do it in 5 minutes or less per wheel.
The adjustment is easy to do, but I would go to a friendly mechanic to learn how to do it. You could buy a special tool to do it or you could just use a big screwdriver.
A trip to the bookstore or library would also give you the information you need. It's very hard to describe what you need to do without showing a diagram or picture.
Basically, what you do is you manually turn the adjuster to make the brake shoes contact the drum, then you back it off to where it just barely stops contact with the drum.
If you know how to do it, you should be able to do it in 5 minutes or less per wheel.


