BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,544
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From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA
It's probably more difficult finding the proper jack stand and socket wrench to remove the bolts than doing the repair.
Common 'think' is to ensure that you don't push 'cruddy' brake fluid back into the brake line as you compress the caliper.
While some advocate opening the bleeders and letting the brake fluid squirt out while compressing the caliper; or others even suggest clamping the brake hose shut during that operation -- my recommendation is to simply bleed the brakes FIRST before you do anything else, then simply leave the bleeders shut during the compression operation.
Since, under this method, there's no 'cruddy' fluid to worry about, it won't matter what gets pushed back into the brake line -- and when you're done cleaning up -- you're simply DONE.
Be sure to wire-brush any areas that normally would be expected to slide -- and a slight coating of 'never-sieze' or similar lubricant will go a long way at helping to keep things from binding.
Post your experience (like time to complete, special problems, recommendations, etc.)
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Y2K™ Jim
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Common 'think' is to ensure that you don't push 'cruddy' brake fluid back into the brake line as you compress the caliper.
While some advocate opening the bleeders and letting the brake fluid squirt out while compressing the caliper; or others even suggest clamping the brake hose shut during that operation -- my recommendation is to simply bleed the brakes FIRST before you do anything else, then simply leave the bleeders shut during the compression operation.
Since, under this method, there's no 'cruddy' fluid to worry about, it won't matter what gets pushed back into the brake line -- and when you're done cleaning up -- you're simply DONE.
Be sure to wire-brush any areas that normally would be expected to slide -- and a slight coating of 'never-sieze' or similar lubricant will go a long way at helping to keep things from binding.
Post your experience (like time to complete, special problems, recommendations, etc.)
------------------
Y2K™ Jim
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Member
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 67
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From: Centralia, Wa 98531
BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
How difficult is it to replace Front Brake pads on a 1997 F-150? Rotors are OK and I just want to replace pads before they go bad since truck has 56,000 miles on originals..
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 375
Likes: 6
From: SoCal
I just did mine yesterday. Piece of cake.
Suggest ordering the caliper piston dust boots first. Mine were worn out(holes in them).
I put the pads in anyway and ordered them for later. I just bought this truck used in May. One of the lug studs broke off too.
All you have to do is jack the truck up, use a jack stand, remove the wheel.
Loosen the top caliper bolt and remove bolt. Move the caliper back without letting it rest on the brake hose.
Pull the old pads out and slowly press the pistons in equally. MAKE SURE the brake line is not bent at an odd angle.
Once pressed in you are ready to install the pads onto the caliper retainer. Use lubricant on the rails and hold the pads in place while you put the caliper back in place. Tight is tight. I think it is 26 ft. lbs. torque. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts.
Switch sides and perform the above.
Good luck.
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MIKE KIEVIT
1996 EXPLORER XLT
1997 F150 2WD(2ND OWNER)
1999 COBRA
[This message has been edited by MKTRUCK (edited 10-19-2000).]
Suggest ordering the caliper piston dust boots first. Mine were worn out(holes in them).
I put the pads in anyway and ordered them for later. I just bought this truck used in May. One of the lug studs broke off too.
All you have to do is jack the truck up, use a jack stand, remove the wheel.
Loosen the top caliper bolt and remove bolt. Move the caliper back without letting it rest on the brake hose.
Pull the old pads out and slowly press the pistons in equally. MAKE SURE the brake line is not bent at an odd angle.
Once pressed in you are ready to install the pads onto the caliper retainer. Use lubricant on the rails and hold the pads in place while you put the caliper back in place. Tight is tight. I think it is 26 ft. lbs. torque. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts.
Switch sides and perform the above.
Good luck.
------------------
MIKE KIEVIT
1996 EXPLORER XLT
1997 F150 2WD(2ND OWNER)
1999 COBRA
[This message has been edited by MKTRUCK (edited 10-19-2000).]