Spark Plug Blowout in 5.4 Triton Engine
Originally posted by syncmaster
I think ford people are being very secretive about any changes because if they did change the spark plug threads it would be a implied admission that the old design was wrong.
I think ford people are being very secretive about any changes because if they did change the spark plug threads it would be a implied admission that the old design was wrong.
But good luck and please keep us posted on what you find out.
My truck was just made (build date January 6, 2003) and I'm guessing will be shipped to my dealer soon.
If there are indeed new heads, I would assume my truck (f150 w/5.4) would have gotten them. I can investigate mine when it arrives and post what I find.
If there are indeed new heads, I would assume my truck (f150 w/5.4) would have gotten them. I can investigate mine when it arrives and post what I find.
syncmaster
Thanks for the reply. Personally, I doubt if Ford has done anything to the current heads since the 2004 has redesigned heads. It would be nice otherwise though. Hope you find out something.
At the NHRA drags in Dallas this fall, I asked the Edelbrock booth if they are planning on making heads for the Ford mod engines and they laughed and said no.
I forget which forum, but I talked to a guy that drag races a highly modified built up F-150, I think 4.6L. He had a machine shop replace the aluminum threads with a new device that is like helicoils, but are more advanced, stronger, and permanent. If I can find the thread I will post it. He said thay take all the torque he wants to apply to the plugs and has never had a problem. I'm getting to old to buy new trucks ever couple of years, so I think if I ever get to pull the heads I will do this.
To get on my soap box for a moment, I trade my 4runner in on the truck to get back to american and to get away from the high cost to maintain high tech engines. Gee, the 3.4L in the 4Runner is $5K to $7K to replace. Ford is headed there with the new 3 valve engines.
Thanks
Pete
Thanks for the reply. Personally, I doubt if Ford has done anything to the current heads since the 2004 has redesigned heads. It would be nice otherwise though. Hope you find out something.
At the NHRA drags in Dallas this fall, I asked the Edelbrock booth if they are planning on making heads for the Ford mod engines and they laughed and said no.
I forget which forum, but I talked to a guy that drag races a highly modified built up F-150, I think 4.6L. He had a machine shop replace the aluminum threads with a new device that is like helicoils, but are more advanced, stronger, and permanent. If I can find the thread I will post it. He said thay take all the torque he wants to apply to the plugs and has never had a problem. I'm getting to old to buy new trucks ever couple of years, so I think if I ever get to pull the heads I will do this.
To get on my soap box for a moment, I trade my 4runner in on the truck to get back to american and to get away from the high cost to maintain high tech engines. Gee, the 3.4L in the 4Runner is $5K to $7K to replace. Ford is headed there with the new 3 valve engines.
Thanks
Pete
He had a machine shop replace the aluminum threads with a new device that is like helicoils, but are more advanced, stronger, and permanent.
Peterbuilt, You just made a light go on in my brain with that comment !
right now we have cylinder heads with the spark plug hole as follows:
bevel seat, 3/8" of no thread then 3/8" of thread which the old plug with 6 threads screws into.
so, if and when we blow a plug , when you remove the head we do all 4 holes with a 3/4" long insert similar to the ones shown in the links below.
insert type #1
but the insert will be threaded into the 3/8" of no thread area and the 3/8" of the damaged thread area . Now you can install the new style plug , the one with 3/4" of thread. That would make for a super strong reliable mod. Now you will actually be using ALL the thread on the plug.
This head repair would really be "BETTER THEN NEW" .
Could you find out from your friend if the insert he is using is 3/4" long and if he is using the newer style plug in it ?
Peterbuilt, You just made a light go on in my brain with that comment !
right now we have cylinder heads with the spark plug hole as follows:
bevel seat, 3/8" of no thread then 3/8" of thread which the old plug with 6 threads screws into.
so, if and when we blow a plug , when you remove the head we do all 4 holes with a 3/4" long insert similar to the ones shown in the links below.
insert type #1
but the insert will be threaded into the 3/8" of no thread area and the 3/8" of the damaged thread area . Now you can install the new style plug , the one with 3/4" of thread. That would make for a super strong reliable mod. Now you will actually be using ALL the thread on the plug.
This head repair would really be "BETTER THEN NEW" .
Could you find out from your friend if the insert he is using is 3/4" long and if he is using the newer style plug in it ?
Last edited by syncmaster; Jan 17, 2003 at 09:48 AM.
Luckily I have the 4.6L but if I had a 5.4L that spit a plug I would pull the head, let my buddy who is a welder on aircraft parts (magnesium, aluminum, titanium, etc) fill up the plug holes with extra material. Then take the head to a machine shop and have them thread the holes. That way you'd have full 3/4 inch of threads done the right way. I've made this point before but nobody seems to catch on.
Those inserts you mention are probably good but how would they fit into the head without changing the placement of the spark plug tip in the combustion chamber?
Those inserts you mention are probably good but how would they fit into the head without changing the placement of the spark plug tip in the combustion chamber?
but how would they fit into the head without changing the placement of the spark plug tip in the combustion chamber?
p_ferlow
click here and scroll down to see pictures of ford old plug verses new plug
The new plug would fit the same as the old plug only now you have steel inserts and 3/4" of thread on the plug.
I would take that over welded aluminum threads any day.
I know you are saying to do something similar but I don't have a friend thats a welder and I think the machine shop would see dollar signs when you tell them to remachine all 4 spark plug holes !
p_ferlow
click here and scroll down to see pictures of ford old plug verses new plug
The new plug would fit the same as the old plug only now you have steel inserts and 3/4" of thread on the plug.
I would take that over welded aluminum threads any day.
I know you are saying to do something similar but I don't have a friend thats a welder and I think the machine shop would see dollar signs when you tell them to remachine all 4 spark plug holes !
Last edited by syncmaster; Jan 10, 2003 at 11:57 AM.
I've seen the difference in plug types. Last plug change I installed full length thread plugs. What I was getting at was how those new steel insterts with a shoulder would thread into the head without changing the distance the plug is sitting at in the head because of the shoulder on the insert. I suppose if there was room in the combustion chamber you could remove the head and put the insert in from inside the chamber. The shoulder would definitely prevent the insert from blowing out but would project into the combustion chamber.
After filling in the head if you had it welded you could just buy a thread tool and run it up the plug hole from the combustion chamber side to match up the existing threads. Your welding person would have to be careful to not change the shoulder of the hole where the plug seals.
Helicoils aren't a good solution either.
The other problem with steel inserts is they expand and contract differently than aluminum which is also an issue with the plugs as those aren't aluminum either. Dissimilar metals. That's why you use anti-seize on the plug threads.
Also, the conductivity of a steel insert will probably be less than aluminum and you'd have to run a plug with a lower heat range to keep the plug temperature the same.
More food for though.
After filling in the head if you had it welded you could just buy a thread tool and run it up the plug hole from the combustion chamber side to match up the existing threads. Your welding person would have to be careful to not change the shoulder of the hole where the plug seals.
Helicoils aren't a good solution either.
The other problem with steel inserts is they expand and contract differently than aluminum which is also an issue with the plugs as those aren't aluminum either. Dissimilar metals. That's why you use anti-seize on the plug threads.
Also, the conductivity of a steel insert will probably be less than aluminum and you'd have to run a plug with a lower heat range to keep the plug temperature the same.
More food for though.
What I was getting at was how those new steel insterts with a shoulder would thread into the head without changing the distance the plug is sitting at in the head because of the shoulder on the insert.
You would counter bore a little for the shoulder of the insert. Click here :steel insert kit.
you can see from the picture the counter bore makes the insert flush with the cylinder head and it looks like the insert is the bevel seat for the spark plug. This insert is interesting, if you click on the link then click the "home" it shows a side view of the insert, look at the circle.. it shows less thread at the bottom of the insert. after you install the insert, and then you install the spark plug... it will spread the lower part of the insert out and press it into the cylinder head. They call it cold rolling, self locking . really a nice touch !
This is what FORD should be installing in the 2003 engines. It would cost very little and solve all spark plug blow outs.
You would counter bore a little for the shoulder of the insert. Click here :steel insert kit.
you can see from the picture the counter bore makes the insert flush with the cylinder head and it looks like the insert is the bevel seat for the spark plug. This insert is interesting, if you click on the link then click the "home" it shows a side view of the insert, look at the circle.. it shows less thread at the bottom of the insert. after you install the insert, and then you install the spark plug... it will spread the lower part of the insert out and press it into the cylinder head. They call it cold rolling, self locking . really a nice touch !
This is what FORD should be installing in the 2003 engines. It would cost very little and solve all spark plug blow outs.
Last edited by syncmaster; Jan 17, 2003 at 09:49 AM.
hey guys,
I started a new thread under "engines"
it's titled "living with ford spark plug blow out problem"
here is the link;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=103042
I wanted to start a fresh thread for the best solutions if you have a blown plug. These threads are getting so long you really have to sift through alot of stuff to get info.
check it out .
I started a new thread under "engines"
it's titled "living with ford spark plug blow out problem"
here is the link;
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=103042
I wanted to start a fresh thread for the best solutions if you have a blown plug. These threads are getting so long you really have to sift through alot of stuff to get info.
check it out .
Repair blown ford spark plugs with TIME-SERT!
http://www.timesert.com/Triton-repair.html
this is what the tools look like read about it.

This is a great repair!!
http://www.timesert.com/Triton-repair.html
this is what the tools look like read about it.

This is a great repair!!
Report these to the NHTSA
I also encountered a blown spark plug. I went to the Ford dealership in Tucson Arizona today (10/19/2004) and was also quoted $3000. The service writer was quite aware of the problem and even guessed as to which cylinder it happened on. He then went on to tell me it was a very uncommon occurence. I also contacted the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. He told me it was quite common. However, people need to not only report it but also request to file a formal complaint. If enough complaints are turned in then they can force Ford to issue a recall. Please report all incidents to them at 1-888-327-4236.


