Click...Click...BOOM?

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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 09:03 AM
  #1  
FordMX's Avatar
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Red face Click...Click...BOOM?

Hey all,

I am in a real mess right now, and I was hoping for some help. My truck stopped starting. When I turn the key, it just clicks. All my accessories work, and the lights are bright, so I don't think it's the battery. Now, sometimes if I continue so try to start it, the engine will slowly turn over and then start. Additionally, when I tried to start it a couple nights ago, my friend noticed a spark from under the right fender. I had him try to start the truck while I watched, and it is coming from the starter. I took it to Ford, and they want to just replace the starter ($$$) I am not totally convinced that this is the cause of the problem, and I would like some advice from you guys. Also, I recently had a remote start put on the truck, so I took it to the dealer that put it in, and they said that they didn't have anything to do with it (of course), but they told me my battery wasn't holding much of a charge. So now I don't know what to think...battery? altenator? starter? I would really appreciate any help!

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 09:56 AM
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hapynzap's Avatar
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From: WISCONSIN
I replaced my battery about 6 months ago and mine's a '98 too.
 

Last edited by hapynzap; Nov 4, 2002 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 12:08 PM
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Hey FordMX,
It probably is your starter. The brushes wear to the point where they arc and spark plus you have the same symptoms. I can't see your remote starter causing the problem either . One thing to keep in mind is that if you use a low battery that may burn spots on the commutator (the place where the brushes contact). You might want change the starter yourself to save money .
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 01:06 PM
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It could very easily be the starter and/or the battery. If it is the original battery, I would suggest replacing it, as it has served its useful purpose. The reason your accessories will work is because they don't take much of a draw, where as a starter puts a huge draw on the battery when turning over. If you still have problems, then I would look at replacing the starter, but also I would also go back to the shop that put the remote starter in and make sure it isn't causing the problem.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 02:12 PM
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Hi Chris.....Woooooe..slow down!

You didnt say...are you a DIY'er? If so, lots info. can be had.

If not...then you know what you have to do.

I also think you may have a bad starter. Also could have a bad battery. If you have shop do batt...be sure they run a chg. system check.

As mentioned...if orig. batt. in your truck...not a waste to get new one. However a simple test proves that.

Good luck on fix. OT
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 07:44 PM
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All starters spark. That's why the starters in gas powered boats are shielded.

As others have said, get your battery checked. I'm betting it needs replacing.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 08:10 PM
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Lightbulb Don't replace that battery or starter just yet!

FORDMX,

Before you go and replace your battery and/or starter, make sure your electrical connections are solid. A loose or broken wire will create a large resistance in the circuit and cause large voltage drop at the starter. This could be causing the solenoid "click" and slow crank speed. Also check the ring terminal and crimps at both ends of the wire (12V and gnd) to make sure they are not broken or loose.

Since you just had the remote start kit installed, I would be mighty suspicious of the electrical connections at this point. I've seen guys finger tighten electrical nuts when they can't get a tool on them very easy. I doesn't take much heat expansion to loosen the connection.

good luck......
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 08:42 PM
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My money is on the alternator. I am sorry that you are having troubles!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 09:35 PM
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it common for sparks to fly if you have a bad connection at the starter. and yes that nut is an issue. lose or corroded. but now if its been this way for even a short time. it will damage the starter. its like welding. and the stud on the starter will get damaged (melted). i have seen this a few times. some not so many sparks and some its the fourth of july. and allmost everyone needed a starter. and from what your saying with it cranking slow. i would say you were welding a little. hehe. good luck.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 10:10 PM
  #10  
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I would also bet on the starter. I have had to replace the starter in every Ford I have ever owned (the last 5 vehicles). It could also be a bad connection at the starter (this would usually cause multiple chicks instead of one), but Ford is known for bad starters....errr, actually the brushes wear out prematurely.

If your battery or alternator were bad you would hear multiple clicks, not just one, at the pass side firewall (about 2-3 feet above the starter).

When your truck doesn't start the next time...climb under it and use a "starter hammer" on the starter a few times. This should knock any junk out from the brushes and save you a tow bill to the local mechanic. (temporary fix).

You may also want to consider getting the starter rebuilt. The new (cheaper than new starter) brushes may, and probably, will last longer than a new starter from Ford.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 11:13 PM
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Awesome!

You guys are simply awesome! I really appreciate all the help! Now I have a plan of action, so I can atleast narrow the problem down somewhat. Thanks again!

Also, to OT, I'm not afraid to tackle most mechanical jobs, so I'd say I am a DIY'er, but I will admit when it's time to give up and take it to the shop

Chris
 

Last edited by FordMX; Nov 4, 2002 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 09:36 AM
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Something I don't think that anyone else mentioned: Most of the parts houses (Autozone, Advance, etc) can test any of the parts mentioned (starter, alternator, battery) for free to see if it is the culprit. Might be worth checking into to keep from buying parts you don't need.

Good luck!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 01:04 AM
  #13  
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One other thing you may want to try before replacing the starter is simulating the positive cable with a battery cable. I replaced a starter once only to find that the positive cable had sufficient internal corrosion to increase the resistance to the point that it wouldn't crank over. Probably not very likely, but it's easy to do and may save some hassle.
 
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