Ram Air material??????

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Old Sep 19, 2002 | 06:25 PM
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Ram Air material??????

For those of you who have made you own ram air, what material did you use for the duct work. I was thinking about RV sewer hose material, or having a place cusom bend some stuff like the Turbo Desiels have. Any suggestions?????
 
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Old Sep 19, 2002 | 08:50 PM
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i used metal dryer vent..but i saw someone use rubber brake ducting which looked good..
 
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Old Sep 19, 2002 | 10:21 PM
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I don't exactly have a ram air set up but I did use dryer vent duct and a sheet metal heating duct piece to channel "fresh" air to the open filter. The thing that I found most difficult was finding a location to run the duct. I wanted it out of sight as much as possible. It's tough to do that without damaging the duct.

Let us know what you end up using.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2002 | 11:57 PM
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Originally posted by ROUSHFAN-1
i used metal dryer vent..but i saw someone use rubber brake ducting which looked good..
ROUSHFAN,

Would you please give some info on your "ram air" system. You used dryer vent to channel air from where to where? How did you hook it up to the Air filter or air intake? Where are you drawing the air from? How has it effected the performance of your truck? Thanks in advance for your answers.

Bill
 
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Old Sep 20, 2002 | 12:16 AM
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I'm with nally, do you feel much difference?

From what I've been conguring up, I'm going to make a box out of aluminum, shape the top to form with the hood, but leave room and place a thick seal (slide out RV seal) that way you still have room for movement and such. I then will run the RV sewer hose from the bottom air damn, up some where into the bottom of the air box. I might even try and run too ducts, if I can find the room. How's this idea sound?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2002 | 03:02 AM
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Originally posted by PhillipSVT
I'm with nally, do you feel much difference?

I'm going to make a box out of aluminum, shape the top to form with the hood, but leave room and place a thick seal (slide out RV seal) that way you still have room for movement and such. I then will run the RV sewer hose from the bottom air damn, up some where into the bottom of the air box. I might even try and run too ducts, if I can find the room. How's this idea sound?
Phillip,

Sounds good. Air "scoop" in the air dam area. Not sure what that "slide out RV seal" is. Would you explain?

Then you would hook up the air intake hose from the fender wall to the aluminum air box you made? That sounds real good.

Would you worry about rain or road dirt getting sucked up into your intake?

Are you convinced our trucks are "starving for air"? At what RPM? 2000 RPM 3000 RPM higher? I'd like to see some feedback from people who've modded their air intake.

Thanks again in advance,

Bill
 
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Old Sep 20, 2002 | 12:46 PM
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Slide out RV seal (not shure the proper name) is farily thick, and allows for movement. At least 1-1.5" of movement.

I probley wouldn't hook un to the fender wall with the duct work, just run from the front of the truck to the box.

I dont think rain is a big worry, thier would still be plenty of air to suck, not rain. I guess it would be like sucking a straw with you mouth still open.

I think this will draw more cold air, or at least cooler air in, which would make more power. In Oklahoma, we get around 100-110 in the summer, and I know my truck is just sucking in hot air. In my dads Lightning, we have ran it at 10* and 100*, and you can most deffenatly feel the cooler air making more power.

It will probly be a week or 2 before I do this, so I will think it over more and let you know.

phillip
 
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Old Sep 20, 2002 | 01:51 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally posted by ROUSHFAN-1
i used metal dryer vent..but i saw someone use rubber brake ducting which looked good..
I used high temp poly brake duct hose.
It worked great, I wanted nothing metal under there, for road salt reasons.
I'll post the pics later when I get home.
It has the setup for the modifited JLP air ram box, attached to a N/A 5.4L.
In this forum is a posting on FIPKs that I made, that explains the modification to the WMS V tube, to connect it to a JLP air ram air box.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2002 | 04:22 PM
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i pretty much have the same set up sscully has........there is pics in my gallery of how i routed it...not sure on the gains ..but it had to help...also it's not ram air it's more like a fresh air system..
 
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Old Sep 22, 2002 | 06:27 PM
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That was the main reason I put my stock intake back in, to experiment I am using 2 1/2" Shop vac hose for the duct, unless I find that it melts under the heat. To make the intake below the bumper, I used two small L brackets, and mounted a rectangle shop vac attachment to the back edge of the bumper. For the airbox end, I cut a 2 1/2"hole in the air box just forward of the two rubber mounts, and pending the acquiring of a 2 1/2" hole saw, in the air box mount itself.

I will be using a short length of exhaust pipe for the transition between the airbox and hose. Likely with L brackets to attach it to the airbox mount. Down on the scoop, I will use the provided quick detach coupling on the hose, to undo it for cleaning, etc. All told the intake hose might be three feet long at the most when I'm done. I blew some compressed air into one end of the hose when it was still full length, and was surprised how much pressure was still at the other end. This was a 7 foot long hose with ridges in it (And coiled up at that!!), so you can imagine what it will be like at 75 mph on the interstate. My only hope is that it's not too much air for the MAF to handle.

Aside from this, I have removed the rubber snorkel off the end of the airbox, and replaced it with about 6 inches of three inch exhaust tubing. It fit like a glove, and I did actually notice a slight improvement over the stock piece. I got a new drop in K&N this morning, and it's like I have my fipk back on. It'll be exciting to see what kind of difference this "ram air" setup will make. Sorry for the book, I just LOVE experimenting,,,,98


Here's a pic of the 3" intake on the airbox, it takes a little filing and careful use of a hammer, lol. More pics in the next couple of weeks as I get the intake ducting done.

 
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Old Sep 22, 2002 | 06:31 PM
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The lower left hole in the bumper cover is where the scoop(shop vac attachment) is mounted. See sig.,,,,98
 
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Old Sep 23, 2002 | 12:48 AM
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Originally posted by 98SCREAMER
The lower left hole in the bumper cover is where the scoop(shop vac attachment) is mounted. See sig.,,,,98
98 SCREAMER,

That sure seems like a real pretty solution! Both up (by the air box) and down (by the bumper) It should provide plenty of cool,cool air to your V8.

Please keep posting and let us know how it holds up. Does it improve performance at higher RPM and under load at WOT? How about MPG any improvment? Is it noisy? I'd appreciate any and all info you could share with us. Thank you in advance.

I've been thinking about this for a while but haven't actually experimented yet

Bill
 
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Old Sep 23, 2002 | 09:29 AM
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So far with a K&N drop in and the three inch intake snorkel, I can't tell a whole lot of difference from the fipk I had on before. It's also quieter. At 75 or so the fipk was howling so loud no one could themselves think I guess I'm either getting older, or ????. I was looking for a solution to the low rpm heat from a stop. Once you get going it's not so bad, but those first few seconds in the summer is a killer. I punched it from a stop yesterday morning, and the tire(s) squealed, it was a little cooler than it has been, though. I'm also thinking of finding a replacement for the factory intake tube, that will allow the factory airbox to be used. Anyone know of such a thing??,,,,,98

Last night with the truck fully loaded, it still spun when I punched it!!
 

Last edited by 98SCREAMER; Sep 23, 2002 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2002 | 01:44 PM
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For some odd reason, my intake isn't loud like everyone say's. I can hear it suck in air at certain speeds (10-40) but anything over that its quiet. I did cut a peice about 1.5" shorter, and that stoped the insanely annoying high pitched sound at idle.

I did manage to squill my tires, but I let off the brakes and punched it (stalled up to about 1900 rpm)

phillip.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2002 | 12:45 AM
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That will change if you ever get a chip I am surprised you can break loose those F-1's now, you're doing well if you can!!,,,,98
 
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