Because it doesn't look to be an easy job, yet from the posts I've seen with the blown out plugs it makes me wonder...What's the general consensus for REAL WORLD (not that 100K mile BS) mileage usage? Yea, I known driving habits will dictate this to a degree but you can't believe everything you hear either.

 

I changed mine at 78K

They were TOAST!

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1999 F350 Super Duty XLT 4x4 5.4L
Rancho RSX shocks w/stablizer,Superchip,Full Custom Exhaust w/ RACE MAGNUM…...
*NEW* Hear The Truck!…..This came out SICK Enjoy…..

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RI995.4L:
[B]I changed mine at 78K

They were TOAST!


How many years were they in the engine? Did you have a difficult time unscrewing them? The folklore is that if you do leave them in for 100K, they freeze to the heads and you strip the threads (in the heads) getting them out.

Al

 

I had a feeling 100K miles seems more than a little *optimistic* to me. I forgot to post that I'm on 5.4 engine #2 as well (they told me it was new but it could even be an FQR according to other info) and wonder if they tried to swap out my old plugs w/18K on them into the "new" block I had put in.

Any ideas on that as well?

 

When guys and gals, I just changed my plugs in my 98 f-150. I have the 4.6 but I'm sure there wouldn't be any difference. I can start off by saying WOW! I was shocked when I pulled that first plug out. The gap read .068. I only have 55,500 miles on my truck. The gaps for the rest are below.

#1 .068 #5 .073
#2 .062 #6 .068
#3 .062 #7 .072
#4 .062 #8 .073

All the plugs were slightly tan in color except #1 cylinder. That plug was slightly white with ash like deposits. Either way, these plugs should have been changed 15,000 miles ago. I can't belive how far the electrode was wore down. This truck is driven 95% on the highway. During the past 10,000 miles I have been trying to get rid of a slight ping problem. I think I found my problem.

One other observation. The #1 plug that was slightly white, there was oil on the threads of the spark plug. Every other plug was oil free. I hope I didn't screw anything up with that #1 cylinder.

 

What's the average cost a dealer would charge someone for a spark plug change only on a 5.4l engine. Anyone have any ideas?
I have 48000 miles on mine now and I think I want to change them out after reading everyone else's post.

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1997 F150 5.4L Supercab 4x4 "Off Road Package" Tow Package 46000 Miles
All stock except for an Alpine Stereo/CD Player, Soft Cover, Bed Liner, and a Custom Painted Bug Deflector.

 

I agree with chuckwheet; I to, had a 1998 with the 4.6 and the plugs were absolutely shot at around 45k. was a great truck and a great motor. My .02Cents

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2001 Lariat Screw. Gen.3,
5.4, 4x4, All white w/ gray interior. 4r70w tranny, Jingling noise in front drivers side,
wrong radiator, 3.55 open gears.

[This message has been edited by whitengray (edited 06-23-2001).]

 

As far as cost is concernd. I paid 28.50 for Autolite double Platinums. While I was at it, I bought a set of wires for it. They were the priemium wires with a 8.5 mm shell. I paid 92.00 for the set of wires. The wires were all the correct length and had the proper ends allready installed. So it cost me $120.50. I have an uncle that works at a Ford dealership and he said they carge right around $200.00 I saved $80.00 by doing it myself. Plus the most important thing, I know it was done right because I did it myself. It took me 2.5 hours to do the change. The dealerships can do it in 1 hour. The next time I change them, it would probably only take 1.5 hours. Changing the dam wires and routing them all correctly took half the time.

The back plugs are the hardest to get, obviously. With a little patience it shouldn't be that difficult of an operation. One other note: The plugs were rather tight. I almost left one of them in there because I didn't want to snap it. Just gradual force broke them loose.

If the plugs you pull out have white paint on the top of them, they are the origianl ones from the factory. They are only supposed to last 60,000 maximum.

 

I would say that 50,000 would be max. I have changed many with more miles and them be ok, but the problem is getting them out. I would say 50,000 and use never seize on the threads of the plugs and the screws that hold the coils, and silcone compound on the boots.

 

I thought the newer trucks didn't have plug wires, only coil packs?

 

Older 4.6's have plug wires, where the 5.4's have coil packs. Chuck has a 4.6 in a 98, therefore he has spak plug wires. I believe the 4.6's now also have coil packs on th '01's, could be wrong.

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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08's, Cargo Cover by Century, bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Bridgestone Dueler AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, and 125,000 miles and counting!

 

i had mine changed at 96,000. after the change the engine (5.4) ran a little smoother but the mpg stayed the same. i paid aroung $200 for labor and plugs.

 

I'm in the process of changing mine now.

FQR at 50K. Have 74K on the 5.4.

Using Bosche Plat +4s.

1.5 hours to change front 4 plugs. 2 on each side. Attempting the back 4 tonight.

KNUCKLE BUSTER!!!

Dealer charges $500 in my area. Precision Tune about $375.

Old plugs are in ok shape.

BAD DESIGN!!!

USE ANIT-SIEZE and Di-electric grease!

 

Well I just completed changing the plugs on the right bank of my 5.4L '99 F-150. I tackle the left bank this weekend. I removed the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail and pulled it up off the injectors, and placed it to one side. I unplugged the wiring harness to the injectors and coil packs and that was all the disassembly that was reuired for this side. An assortment of extensions ids necessary to get the right height to attach the ratchet. My plugs had 62,000 miles and they were original Motorcraft. I measured the gap and they were about .060" or .006" over what the new plugs were set. I paid $1.99 each for the exact same plug. I used a very small amount of "never seize" on the spark plug (be careful not to get ANY on the firing side of the plug) and a smidge of Dow Corning DC4 (silicone grease) on the rubber boot. I cleaned and inspected the coil packs and found 1 cracked. New coil packs are $46 from the dealer and include the rubber boot (boots are NOT available seperately). My heater hose had been leaking at the spring clamp and dripping onto the right rear 2 cylinders' coil packs. The sparkplugs showed rust build up that the fron 2 plugs did not have. I used a spark plug socket with rubber boot for removal but a plain deep well socket for installation (I didn't want the socket and extension to separate when it came time to remove the tool). If any of this is unclear, experiment with the easiest cylinder first until you develop a technique that works for you. I believe my original plus would have lasted 100,000 miles and the dealer cost to change them out should be less than $250.

 

My dealer recommends a change at 60k. Had mine done earlier this week, $200 + parts. Of course, they didn't keep the old ones for me as I had asked. Seems to run a little smoother, maybe...


[This message has been edited by FrozenTexan (edited 06-29-2001).]