V10 Spark Plug Blow out
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Three Oaks MI
V10 Spark Plug Blow out
Hey group,just wondering if anyone has experienced the samething I have...
1999 F350 v 10 on the passenger side head the spark plug blew out of the hole removing the threads from the aluminum head with it... After talking to Ford about using an helicoil
ot taper set to get home while pulling my RV the answer was NO..The head had to be replaced...
1999 F350 v 10 on the passenger side head the spark plug blew out of the hole removing the threads from the aluminum head with it... After talking to Ford about using an helicoil
ot taper set to get home while pulling my RV the answer was NO..The head had to be replaced...
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,167
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From: Anchorage
Did you install different plugs in your truck? Or are they the factory originals? If it's under warranty, have them fix it.
You could Helicoil it but I don't think it would be strong enough to hold because of the combustion pressures. Also there would be no way preventing the metal shavings falling into your combustion camber. Then there would be some major problems later in the future.
No matter what you decide, I would still recommend removing the head to do the rapair.
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1999 F250 LD S/C XLT 4x4
5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster 40 series, K&N, Poweraid, Superchip, Rancho RSX shocks, Stull billet grille, 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (120W), 2-KC Daylighters (150W)
265/70 R17 BFG AT KO's on 17x8 American Racing Atlas rims
Kenwood 7000 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers. CompuStar alarm/autostart. Coming soon: MTX Thunderforms box
You could Helicoil it but I don't think it would be strong enough to hold because of the combustion pressures. Also there would be no way preventing the metal shavings falling into your combustion camber. Then there would be some major problems later in the future.
No matter what you decide, I would still recommend removing the head to do the rapair.
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1999 F250 LD S/C XLT 4x4
5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster 40 series, K&N, Poweraid, Superchip, Rancho RSX shocks, Stull billet grille, 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (120W), 2-KC Daylighters (150W)
265/70 R17 BFG AT KO's on 17x8 American Racing Atlas rims
Kenwood 7000 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers. CompuStar alarm/autostart. Coming soon: MTX Thunderforms box
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Trixters-Playground
Absolutely!!! DO NOT attempt to helicoil the head. Use the roadside assistance program which is complimentary with each new vehicle. You will get FREE flat repair, fuel, and towing.
Everyone!!! If you are under 3/36 warranty you are entitled to this service!!!!
Call 1-800-241-3673. the agent you speak with will need the VIN and mileage. It helps to have a cell number, tag number, and the color of your truck (so they can find you).
Have it towed straight to a dealer. From there, you can work out a rental or loaner.
Do NOT attempt a repair like this. You may give the dealer grounds to deny the warranty claim. FORD WILL SUPPORT THE DEALER!!!!!
BESIDES, there was a casting or production flaw. This is not normal. Don't you feel you are entitled to a new head; AT LEAST????
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BLOWN 4.6 5-speed
Where we started.
After a facelift.
SNAKE EYES!
Trixters-Playground!
trixters-playground@excite.com
F-150online Photo Album
crash@f150fanatic.com
MAGNACHARGER
ALLEN
Everyone!!! If you are under 3/36 warranty you are entitled to this service!!!!
Call 1-800-241-3673. the agent you speak with will need the VIN and mileage. It helps to have a cell number, tag number, and the color of your truck (so they can find you).
Have it towed straight to a dealer. From there, you can work out a rental or loaner.
Do NOT attempt a repair like this. You may give the dealer grounds to deny the warranty claim. FORD WILL SUPPORT THE DEALER!!!!!
BESIDES, there was a casting or production flaw. This is not normal. Don't you feel you are entitled to a new head; AT LEAST????
------------------
BLOWN 4.6 5-speed
Where we started.
After a facelift.
SNAKE EYES!
Trixters-Playground!
trixters-playground@excite.com
F-150online Photo Album
crash@f150fanatic.com
MAGNACHARGER
ALLEN
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Three Oaks MI
I appreciat the response,,,, the truck has
48000 miles on it,,, I called Ford and the have a service bulletin on all their aluminum
heads,,,and they are not to helicoil or taper set them....These were the original plugs so
it is Fords problem at this point...I did purchase an extended warranty.....So Ford is going to fix it....I can't imagine how people are trying to put nitros os banks systems on these engines as mine was 100 % stock and this happens....My only thoughts are if some one at the factor over torqued the spark plugs this could be a problem in all aluminum head engines...The service manger had a service bulletin about the helicoiling and it included all triton engines no matter what they were in......
48000 miles on it,,, I called Ford and the have a service bulletin on all their aluminum
heads,,,and they are not to helicoil or taper set them....These were the original plugs so
it is Fords problem at this point...I did purchase an extended warranty.....So Ford is going to fix it....I can't imagine how people are trying to put nitros os banks systems on these engines as mine was 100 % stock and this happens....My only thoughts are if some one at the factor over torqued the spark plugs this could be a problem in all aluminum head engines...The service manger had a service bulletin about the helicoiling and it included all triton engines no matter what they were in......
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 148
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From: Cocoa, FL
Interesting that Ford does not want these heads heli-coiled.
I was a jet engine mechanic in the Navy and used heli-coils like they were standard equipment, in fact in some parts they were. I also worked as a mechanic at a VW garage and we heli-coiled the spark plug holes in the aluminum heads of air cooled VW engines all the time. I don't ever remember having a problem, if they were installed correctly.
Sure does make me wonder.
I was a jet engine mechanic in the Navy and used heli-coils like they were standard equipment, in fact in some parts they were. I also worked as a mechanic at a VW garage and we heli-coiled the spark plug holes in the aluminum heads of air cooled VW engines all the time. I don't ever remember having a problem, if they were installed correctly.
Sure does make me wonder.
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,751
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From: Waltham Ma.
It is not that unusual for a spark plug to blow out.I had a work truck with a 460 blow a spark plug right through the hood of the truck, scared the hell out of me.I beleve it had cast iron heads.
I have also seen plugs blow out the ceramic insulator.
It is possible that the plug was installed incorectly from the factory, and over the 48,000 miles on the truck wore away at he threads little bye little, till it blew.
Luckally you have the extended warantee.
------------------
1999 F150 4x4 4.6V8 regcab/shortbed
Oxford White with Wedgewood Blue two tone, with Blue Captains chairs
Bullet Cat Back, Superchip,WMS Velocity Tube with modified K&N filter.
Centerline Saber rims 17x8" with Firestone GTA 275/60hr-17 tires.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 07-28-2000).]
I have also seen plugs blow out the ceramic insulator.
It is possible that the plug was installed incorectly from the factory, and over the 48,000 miles on the truck wore away at he threads little bye little, till it blew.
Luckally you have the extended warantee.
------------------
1999 F150 4x4 4.6V8 regcab/shortbed
Oxford White with Wedgewood Blue two tone, with Blue Captains chairs
Bullet Cat Back, Superchip,WMS Velocity Tube with modified K&N filter.
Centerline Saber rims 17x8" with Firestone GTA 275/60hr-17 tires.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 07-28-2000).]
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Three Oaks MI
The Ford garage that I left my truck @ In Michigan has had it for almost 2 weeks now and still don't have any parts (Head) to make the repair... Not a happy camper....
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From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA
If I could have (afford) my way, every tapped hole in my aluminum heads would be helicoiled -- right from the get-go.
Now to your issue -- the most concerning thing is WHY it came out.
Overtorque'ng is a possibility -- but so is a hydrostatic lock.
If the injector had leaked (extended key-on) and you turned the engine over, it could have whacked the plug with an enormous pulse -- later to come out.
Please have the technicians do a full pressure check of at least that injector when they R&R the head.
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Y2K™ Jim Gorka
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Now to your issue -- the most concerning thing is WHY it came out.
Overtorque'ng is a possibility -- but so is a hydrostatic lock.
If the injector had leaked (extended key-on) and you turned the engine over, it could have whacked the plug with an enormous pulse -- later to come out.
Please have the technicians do a full pressure check of at least that injector when they R&R the head.
------------------
Y2K™ Jim Gorka
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,544
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From: Kalamazoo, MI, USA
It is a brand name which, like Kleenex and Formica and the Phillips screwdriver had grown to describe a type of thread insert.
Visualize tightening a hardened bolt into a soft material to the point that the threads are completely stripped (sheared) from the hole in which the bolt was inserted.
Now visualize unscrewing the stripped threads from the hole off from the bolt.
You would also then have one-half of what a helicoil looks like. >bolt<
If you were to look at that coil of threads, you'd see that it was triangular in shape -- with two sides of the thread mating with the threads of the bolt -- and the third side of the coil of threads shearing flat in the same plane (parallel) with the bolt as it came out.
Theoretically, you could push the bolt - with the stripped threads still wrapped around the bolt -- back into the hole.
OK -- now take that traingle of wire and on the outside of the coil of wire add a mirror of the original triangle so that the coil of wire is now made up of diamond-shaped wire.
You could not push that new coil of threads back in the hole since the new threads would be bigger than the hole in which the old one (remember the new one is now exactly twice the size of the old one -- cuz you added another side to the wire/thread.
So...
...you cut (tap) new threads into the old stripped hole so that you can insert the coil of threads into the hole -- and then insert the bolt into that new set of threads.
In actuality, you buy a 'coil' of wire that looks like the double-sided threads in the above example.
The wire is shaped like <> and the coil is springy and is screwed into the hole and then the excess wire (coil) is cut off.
The wire is HARD -- much harder than the original (ie, and e.g.: cast iron, aluminum, plastic, powdered metal) -- and does not corrode or gall from frequent torquing of bolts.
It is the latter which makes it the thread of choice for machinery which needs to be assembled/disassembled and where a bolt and nut are not practical.
There are a couple other subtleties to the installation - and/but the threads are considered a lifetime repair -- and I hate to use the word 'repair' since they are often used as a primary thread and not a repair.
I hope I was able to verbalize this well enough to be understood.
------------------
Y2K™ Jim Gorka
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Visualize tightening a hardened bolt into a soft material to the point that the threads are completely stripped (sheared) from the hole in which the bolt was inserted.
Now visualize unscrewing the stripped threads from the hole off from the bolt.
You would also then have one-half of what a helicoil looks like. >bolt<
If you were to look at that coil of threads, you'd see that it was triangular in shape -- with two sides of the thread mating with the threads of the bolt -- and the third side of the coil of threads shearing flat in the same plane (parallel) with the bolt as it came out.
Theoretically, you could push the bolt - with the stripped threads still wrapped around the bolt -- back into the hole.
OK -- now take that traingle of wire and on the outside of the coil of wire add a mirror of the original triangle so that the coil of wire is now made up of diamond-shaped wire.
You could not push that new coil of threads back in the hole since the new threads would be bigger than the hole in which the old one (remember the new one is now exactly twice the size of the old one -- cuz you added another side to the wire/thread.
So...
...you cut (tap) new threads into the old stripped hole so that you can insert the coil of threads into the hole -- and then insert the bolt into that new set of threads.
In actuality, you buy a 'coil' of wire that looks like the double-sided threads in the above example.
The wire is shaped like <> and the coil is springy and is screwed into the hole and then the excess wire (coil) is cut off.
The wire is HARD -- much harder than the original (ie, and e.g.: cast iron, aluminum, plastic, powdered metal) -- and does not corrode or gall from frequent torquing of bolts.
It is the latter which makes it the thread of choice for machinery which needs to be assembled/disassembled and where a bolt and nut are not practical.
There are a couple other subtleties to the installation - and/but the threads are considered a lifetime repair -- and I hate to use the word 'repair' since they are often used as a primary thread and not a repair.
I hope I was able to verbalize this well enough to be understood.
------------------
Y2K™ Jim Gorka
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Corona, CA, USA
Wow, I can't believe it. I just had the exact same problem. Coming back from Las Vegas to LA the my 1998 Ford Expedition blew the #3 spark plug stripping the housing and incapacitating the truck. The dealer wants to charge me $2000 to replace it. I'm really mad because it appears to me to be a manufacturing defect. I have no extended warranty, so I gotta foot the bill if I want my truck back. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA. I want to talk directly to Ford, but they're not allowing me to talk to the zone representative. There's a lot of expeditions out there and they are owned by people like me who don't do much more than get regular oil changes. The truck advertisements boast that no tuneup is required for the first 100,000 miles. As I read on this list, i'm learning that I was dumb to take their word for it. I'm going to make it my personal campaign to educate the "non-tool time" people on the net about this fallacy. Could this have been avoided by replacing the plugs? Thanks for any information you can provide.
Broke in LA....
Broke in LA....
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by FordF350SD:
Hey group,just wondering if anyone has experienced the samething I have...
1999 F350 v 10 on the passenger side head the spark plug blew out of the hole removing the threads from the aluminum head with it... After talking to Ford about using an helicoil
ot taper set to get home while pulling my RV the answer was NO..The head had to be replaced...</font>
Hey group,just wondering if anyone has experienced the samething I have...
1999 F350 v 10 on the passenger side head the spark plug blew out of the hole removing the threads from the aluminum head with it... After talking to Ford about using an helicoil
ot taper set to get home while pulling my RV the answer was NO..The head had to be replaced...</font>
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: The Ocean State
Ok
I just delt with this
No warrenty for me....no work done from ford!
I got an 'Insert' kit from NAPA ....which is like a helicoil but is a SOLID piece (no coil) with threads on the inside & outside. Also has a ridge on top so you cannot screw it TOO FAR in the hole
Kit comes with tap and assortment of insert depths .
I started tapping using TONS of grease....constantly cleaning and applying new grease to tap (Which catches Bulk of filings and chips.
Then I attached some copper tubing to my SHOP VAC and sucked out the cylinder (Head still on engine).
Applied HIGH-temp RTV to 'INSERT' and anti-seize to plug threads......and torqued
WORKED like a charm.....be fine ever since
I have some pics if you want
------------------
1999 F350 Super Duty XLT 4x4 5.4L
Rancho RSX shocks w/stablizer,Superchip,Full Custom Exhaust w/ RACE MAGNUM…...
*NEW* Hear The Truck!…..This came out SICK Enjoy…..
[This message has been edited by RI995.4L (edited 06-21-2001).]
I just delt with this
No warrenty for me....no work done from ford!
I got an 'Insert' kit from NAPA ....which is like a helicoil but is a SOLID piece (no coil) with threads on the inside & outside. Also has a ridge on top so you cannot screw it TOO FAR in the hole
Kit comes with tap and assortment of insert depths .
I started tapping using TONS of grease....constantly cleaning and applying new grease to tap (Which catches Bulk of filings and chips.
Then I attached some copper tubing to my SHOP VAC and sucked out the cylinder (Head still on engine).
Applied HIGH-temp RTV to 'INSERT' and anti-seize to plug threads......and torqued
WORKED like a charm.....be fine ever since
I have some pics if you want
------------------
1999 F350 Super Duty XLT 4x4 5.4L
Rancho RSX shocks w/stablizer,Superchip,Full Custom Exhaust w/ RACE MAGNUM…...
*NEW* Hear The Truck!…..This came out SICK
Enjoy…..[This message has been edited by RI995.4L (edited 06-21-2001).]