Service Engine Soon
Got 11,300 miles on my screw and light came
on. I reset computer, gas cap is tight still
no good! I don't want to go to Dealer and
risk voiding warranty. (after market parts)
Any ideas? Thanks
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2001 Super Crew 4.6 Auto
TD Performance Oil Filter
Relocation Kit.
Pace Edwards Rool Top Tonneau Cover
on. I reset computer, gas cap is tight still
no good! I don't want to go to Dealer and
risk voiding warranty. (after market parts)
Any ideas? Thanks
------------------
2001 Super Crew 4.6 Auto
TD Performance Oil Filter
Relocation Kit.
Pace Edwards Rool Top Tonneau Cover
Rickesh,
You could invest in a scanner and find the code yourself. Check out my mods, and I still go to the dealer. What mods are you worried about?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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SEE us play;
http://www.F150world.com/michapter/
00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 4.6 w/5spd 3.55LSD
Warn XD9000i, skid plates, Draw tite class III,
Rancho RSX Reflex shocks, MAC 8.8 Axle Girdle
BFG 285/75 R16 MTs,
Borla Cat Back, Hedman Headers,
Custom air intake system with modified
air box, Ported Throttle body,
Shortened MAF sensor tower,
K&N air filter,
Superchips
You could invest in a scanner and find the code yourself. Check out my mods, and I still go to the dealer. What mods are you worried about?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
------------------
SEE us play;
http://www.F150world.com/michapter/
00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 4.6 w/5spd 3.55LSD
Warn XD9000i, skid plates, Draw tite class III,
Rancho RSX Reflex shocks, MAC 8.8 Axle Girdle
BFG 285/75 R16 MTs,
Borla Cat Back, Hedman Headers,
Custom air intake system with modified
air box, Ported Throttle body,
Shortened MAF sensor tower,
K&N air filter,
Superchips

My Service Engine Soon came on yesterday. I thought my tires were out of balance at first, then it acted like not all the spark plugs are firing. Finally the Service Engine Soon light came on. My truck is a 1999 Ford F-150 Lariat with a 5.4 Triton V8 engine I think. The owners manual said to use a higher grade gasoline and see if the light stays on. I drove it home (about 10 miles) with the Service Engine Soon light on.
It smelled like sulfur or box matches when I got out of my truck. Something tells me that the catalytic converter may be going out (if it has one) because of this smell. I only have 17,000 miles on my truck.
It smelled like sulfur or box matches when I got out of my truck. Something tells me that the catalytic converter may be going out (if it has one) because of this smell. I only have 17,000 miles on my truck.
the service engine soon light is almost always an emissions related failure . . mine went on at 5M miles and turned out to be a sensor that controls exhaust gas recirculation. i'd take it to a dealer and have them read the code and fix the problem.
Mine came on Thursday night after having my oil changed that morning at Ken Grody in Buena Park (Eric, the service manager, is very cool - they even have a performance center and sell Magnachargers, etc.). No funny smells, seems to drive fine, but still on, I have an appt. back at the dealer Monday morning... 6800 miles on the truck...
-- J
-- J
Kenster, if a loose gas cap caused the light to come on, it takes several start cycles to clear the fault. Manually clearing the computer like you did is the quickest way to turn the light off. Only disadvantage to doing it your way is your computer will need time to reprogram itself. Depending on the year, the most noticeable change will be in how your transmission shifts, at least it's that way in my truck.
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BlackHeart,
I had this a problem with the same symptoms, same year and engine. It turned out that there is a problematic line that carries coolant that runs right over one or some spark plugs. When the line leaks it shorts out the plug (or plugs. I didn't get the TSB, but your dealer should be aware of it, good luck.
I had this a problem with the same symptoms, same year and engine. It turned out that there is a problematic line that carries coolant that runs right over one or some spark plugs. When the line leaks it shorts out the plug (or plugs. I didn't get the TSB, but your dealer should be aware of it, good luck.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BlackHeart:
My Service Engine Soon came on yesterday. I thought my tires were out of balance at first, then it acted like not all the spark plugs are firing. Finally the Service Engine Soon light came on. My truck is a 1999 Ford F-150 Lariat with a 5.4 Triton V8 engine I think. The owners manual said to use a higher grade gasoline and see if the light stays on. I drove it home (about 10 miles) with the Service Engine Soon light on.
It smelled like sulfur or box matches when I got out of my truck. Something tells me that the catalytic converter may be going out (if it has one) because of this smell. I only have 17,000 miles on my truck.</font>
My Service Engine Soon came on yesterday. I thought my tires were out of balance at first, then it acted like not all the spark plugs are firing. Finally the Service Engine Soon light came on. My truck is a 1999 Ford F-150 Lariat with a 5.4 Triton V8 engine I think. The owners manual said to use a higher grade gasoline and see if the light stays on. I drove it home (about 10 miles) with the Service Engine Soon light on.
It smelled like sulfur or box matches when I got out of my truck. Something tells me that the catalytic converter may be going out (if it has one) because of this smell. I only have 17,000 miles on my truck.</font>
I recently got my first check engine light (about 42k miles) The code said something about emissions. They went through a big diagnostic search before determining that it was a failure of the gas cap. They said the gas cap was not covered by the ESP so the whole diagnostic job would cost be over $200 for a $14 gas cap. I told them they better look again because my son's car had recently undergone the same thing and the ESP paid for it. They called back and said "you're right, it's covered." Two weeks later, within seconds of filling up my gas tank, the light came on again. I took off the cap and put it back on tightly. The light did not clear, so I disconncected the battery to reset the computer. The light cleared and has never come back on.
Just brought my 1999 F150 5.4 4X4 flareside
into the dealer today. At 13,000 miles I had a rough idle. They told me they would replace the ignition coil. The truck seemed fine until this morning. At 20,783 miles, once the truck warmed up, again I had a very rough idle every time I accelerated. This time on the way to Ford the service engine light came on. I called them and they said drive it in as long as the light was not flashing. I guess I'll here from them tommorrow. This $32,000 truck is costing me $424/mo. If it happens again rest assured, I will seek the lemon law! Keep posted, I will let you guys know my outcome.
into the dealer today. At 13,000 miles I had a rough idle. They told me they would replace the ignition coil. The truck seemed fine until this morning. At 20,783 miles, once the truck warmed up, again I had a very rough idle every time I accelerated. This time on the way to Ford the service engine light came on. I called them and they said drive it in as long as the light was not flashing. I guess I'll here from them tommorrow. This $32,000 truck is costing me $424/mo. If it happens again rest assured, I will seek the lemon law! Keep posted, I will let you guys know my outcome.
I would have gotten back sooner, but my cable modem was down. The Ford people told me, that the ignition coil had to be replaced again.
Apparently, the first time a clamp on the cooling line was loose and coolant dripped out onto the coil and plug. This time, a coil connecter backed out and caused the wire to burn up. There you have it, 2 ignition coils later. I'll give it another 7,000 miles and see what happens next.
[This message has been edited by crb69 (edited 06-19-2001).]
Apparently, the first time a clamp on the cooling line was loose and coolant dripped out onto the coil and plug. This time, a coil connecter backed out and caused the wire to burn up. There you have it, 2 ignition coils later. I'll give it another 7,000 miles and see what happens next.
[This message has been edited by crb69 (edited 06-19-2001).]
My check engine light has been on now for about 20,000 miles(121,000 total on truck) A friend (who works at a Ford dealership) scanned it and he said that the throttle body needed cleaning. Did that and it came back on. He got me a new t.body and EGR valve from work to try to see if that was the problem, I changed it and computer was still saying something wrong with throttle body. Put my old parts back on, Comp. reset, light came back on and again same code. So I just put a piece of electrical tape on the lens over the light and POOF!, the light is gone. Tried several dealers and all get the same code. Truck runs fine, NO PROB.'s at ALL! If it ain't broke, how can i fix it? LOL!
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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.
[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 06-08-2001).]
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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.
[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 06-08-2001).]
I have a 2000 F150 XLT with the 5.4 Triton the service engine light has been goin on and off for a while and on my way home from work tonight I was in 4x4 due to the snow and my service engine light started blinking. I quickly turned off the truck and started it right back up and the blinking stopped. I dont know what it could be and am worried about the engine goin completely out, and costly repairs. Can anyone help with what could be wrong?
First off, a bit of forum etiquette. You should not reopen a thread that's been dead for over 13 years. You should start a new thread.
With that out of the way, you need to read out the trouble codes. Most parts stores will read them free, or you can buy a cheap code reader for 20 bucks on Amazon.
With that out of the way, you need to read out the trouble codes. Most parts stores will read them free, or you can buy a cheap code reader for 20 bucks on Amazon.






