I am going to put on FIPK on my truck in the near future, and I just had an idea. This may/may not affect performance, but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask. Would it do any good to wrap the FIPK in heat shield tape? I know this trick from motorcycle racing, because it lowers the temperature of the air charge because the intake is so close to the engine. Do you think this would make any difference? Obviously, it wouldn't be as aesthetically pleasing as the aftermarket tubes look on their own, but I'm not too concerned with that, bacause I really don't go showing off my engine compartment anyway. Thanks in advance...

Chris

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1998 F-150 Standard Cab/Long Bed 4.2L V6

• Fabtech 3.5" Spindles
• 2" Rear blocks
• BFGoodrich 295/75R16 AT's
• Rancho RS 9000's
• Rhino Bedliner
• 3.55 Gears
• Changed pinstripes to gray (come on Ford, did purple pinstripes really look good on ANY truck?
• Limo Tint
• Pioneer P-6000 Head Unit, 4 Pioneer 3-Way 6x9's, 800 watt Pioneer Amp, 2 12" Pioneer Subwoofers
• PIAA High-Intensity Driving Lights mounted in bumper
• Updated front end to 2001 Black Grille w/ honeycomb, 2001 Chrome bumper, 4x4 Valance w/ fog lights & Tow hooks
• Clear corners and tail lights
• 2001 XLT 60/40 Seat

 

Hey FordMX,

Do you drive an MX sled?
Just wondering..

I think that putting heat sheild tape is almost
like restricting the FIPK in the 1st place.
Most ppl get them so that there is less restriction that the stock air box, even if it
means sucking in hot (under the hood) air.

Either way, I think that it is a cheap mod, that you can try and see what "you" feel is more
apropriate for HP gains.

Also, I don't think that you will feel any difference with or without the tape, as it
bears such a small amount of HP gains to begin with. Plus you tape job would have to be done right and totally covering the filter
to prevent from sucking in hot air. Any little crack will make your mod useless...

My honest opinion, give it a try and let us all know.

Cheers~!

Morley

 

Here is my opinion:

you may see 1hp if even that. The tape will get heatsoaked also under the hood and be useless.

Also 1hp in a 4-5000lb truck equates to SQUAT. You will not notice or feel it. Just keep it stock so it looks good.

 

I would definitely add the FIPK, but forget the tape and go with the K&N. It's compostie plastic, so it won't retain much heat anyway. Good luck.




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1998 F150 Nascar Edition(removed the decals)
4.6L V8 4x2 Reg Cab Short Bed
K&N Generation II FIPK
Borla Split Rear CatBack Exhaust
Stull Billett Grill
KC Hilites 150watt daylighters behind the grill
PIAA 1700 foglights in bumper
APC Clear corner lenses
Pirelli Scorpion ST (265/70/16)on factory Nascar Black Mag Wheels
Bug deflector
Side window deflectors
Snapless Tonneau Cover
Duraliner Bedliner
Alpine Head unit
Alpine Amp
Boston Acoustics Speakers
Bazooka Tube behind passenger seat

Future Mods:
Superchip
Torque Converter
JBA or Gibson Headers
Edelbrock Throttle Body
Airaid throttlebody spacer
Traction Bars
IAS or Reflex Shocks
Anti-sway bars
Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor
Vortech Supercharger
Underdrive Pulley Set
Go Rhino Nerf bars
Crystal Eyes Projector headlamps
APC Euro Taillights

 

Is it just my skewed thinking or isn't the point to have cool air enter the chamber prior to the engine and keep it cool?
It's not a bad idea; however, where the filter draws in air is actually hot engine compartment air. I don't think that wrapping will do anything other than keep the air from getting hotter (maybe).
The only way to do this is to have the air draw come from the outside, which means extending the air intake pipe completely out of the engine compartment.
Hmmm...how do those turbo boys do it? Ice boxes? Maybe a good question for Neal.

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'99 Ford F-150 Lariat, 4WD, SCab, ORP, LS/3.73, Tow Pkg, 5.4L
* Superchip
* K&N FIPK GEN II
'99 Chrysler 300M, PHP, Sunroof, Premium Infinity Sound, 3.5L
* Borla Cat-Bak
* K&N Filtercharger
Atlanta Gamerz
F-150Online
300M Club
StarBand

 

sorry if i caused any confusion. what i forgot to mention is that if you're going to use heat tape, either do an air box mod or use the stock intake.

 

HI!... REMEMBER that "HEAT TAPE" is designed to keep HEAT in, headers. If you wrap your intake pipe with HEAT TAPE you will be keeping the heat in, not out. Theres is heat repelany tape if that is what you were thinking of, and that works the total opposite of regular HEAT TAPE. On my custom TRUE RAM AIR set-up I'm goint t wrap it with DEI's "AIR TUBE COVER KIT" PART # 010417. It's 36 inches long and has velcro so it can be removed over and over again. It claims to drop your intake air temp 30%. Hope this helps some of you out.

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NEAL " THE H.P FREAK" E-MAIL :nnewman@sympatico.ca
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP "FLIP-CHIP", BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, PERMA-COOL external tranny filter, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS, FORD RACING 24LB injectors, RUSSELL stainless steel braided tranny lines with fittings.


FUTURE MODS : BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150 LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 340H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.52E.T * MPH - 93.73 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 16.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon JAZ fuel cell,etc

 

your gians might be minimal, but it might be worth a try. i was curiuos about this myself.
as for the tape becoming heat soaked, it won't happen unless your idling for a long time. the air coming in through the grill will prevent this. more importantly, air doesn't get hot that quickly especially when you consider the velocities that it is moving from the fender to the engine. also the plastic intake pipe helps keep the temps down too. it's worth a shot for what it costs.

oh, you might want to look at my sig before you buy an FIPK.

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98' 4x4 S/C F-150 Flaireside, ORP, K&N FIPK(REMOVED!!) SAVE $, AIR BOX MOD RULES

 

If you're currently pulling in air through the fender wall (cold air) and do minimal stop-sit-go city driving, there will be little to no appreciable reduction in induced air temperature.
If you're consistently stopped for long periods of time or in bumper-to-bumper crawling traffic, there may be some benefit due to slower 'cool' air movement through a higher temp 'heat-soaked' intake. Reflective heat shield tape (shiny side out) will slow the heat transfer from under hood temps to the plastic intake.
The tape may be more effective on metallic intake tubes. Metals are a better heatsink than plastics, but most of the after-market open-filter tubes are already pulling in the higher-temp, under-hood air at idle up to about 10 mph. Above that speed, under hood temperatures drop to almost the same, if not equal to the ambient outside temperature. The only way to test the actual temperature of the inspired air is to install a thermistor just before the throttle body. Remember, that for every 11 degree temperature rise in intake air, you lose 1 horsepower.
Too much of a hassle? It is for me. I do not think the time, albeit minimal expense for the tape, would net you any appreciable engine efficiency to where you could truly feel the extra horse or two.

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2001 F-150 SuperCrew, Lariat 4x2, Black w/gray leather, 5.4L Engine, Towing package (1.02" radiator)

Modifications: Gibson SideSwept Exhaust, K&N filtercharger w/modified cold air box, ******* lid, Bed Extender, Ventvisors, Hood deflector, Black Stull Billet Grille, Lightning Tails

Shopping List: Oil filter relocation, Front & Rear Swaybars, PermaCool Cool Pack II dual electric fans (available this summer)

 

Chris,

Check out this web site:

http://performanceunlimited.com/proj...ircleaner.html

I think that this will help answer your question.

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2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 4X4,5.4,Off Road,Tow Pkg

 

Interesting. The difference between #3 & #4 is only removing the silencer and performance goes down. I'm glad I didn't remove mine yet.