It worked for me!
Im damn glad i did it becuase i noticed a damn nice improvement!

 

me and a friend did a test on intake temp using a super accurate digital temp guage with a long sensor wire. we first opened up the factory cold air setup and put the wire inside. the temps were about 90. it was about 85 and sunny outside. we drove around a while and it stayed about the same. then we put the sensor outside the airbox but right next to it in the engine compartment. the temps were about 120 or so when sitting still because of the heat and could get higher if you sat a while. but as soon as you started moving the temps were about the same as the cold air temps. it would be better if we had 2 meters to test simultaneously but they are very pricey.

-steve

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2000 F-150 Harley Davidson Edition
Mods-
-Foglight Mod
-python 3000 alarm
-pics

 

how do u like the 3" pipes? I was thinking of doing the same thing from a 2 chambered flow master.

 

I did something similar to MooseMan, however, I got another filter housing and cut it away all around except at the bottom and mating surface, so I could still attach it as stock with the rubbers on the bottom...... Works good and look decent. This way, I didn't need any tie wraps, strings etc. Check your local auto wrecker for the part, only $10.00 or so. No digital camera, so no pics, sorry........

 

I have removed the angled "tuner tube" and replaced the intake snorkle with a 3" coupler to the fender, and added a K&N with a cone on the end of it which I stole off a stock filter. I have also gone to a 3" mufflerless catback. I've been wondering lately if my truck could possibly benefit from a larger than 3" intake, but I don't know how much air is actually taken in to make the call myself. The largest "cold air" intake possible is 3", unless you were to cut a larger hole in the fender, so my only other choice would be to open up the airbox so it would take in air from inside the hood, in the area near the airbox. I just wasn't sure how much warmer the air is in this area, what part of the box to cut, (to force intake from either the front or bottom) or if the air less turbulant coming in perpendicular or the filer, or running down along the filter.

Does any air flow in through the fender hole so I could leave a 6" gap between the airbox and hole, or does it have to be hooked up directly to suck in cooler air? I just want to make sure the restriction isn't at the intake level, and I can't help but to wonder if I could get anymore intake / exhaust noise by doing this. Thanks!!!

-AR

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2001 F-150 XLT 4x4 Off-Road, SuperCab, Flareside, Black[*] 4.6L Triton V8 HPI[*] 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle[*] Keyless[*] Premium Audio CD

Mods:[*] K&N Cold Airbox / Throttle Body Mod.[*] 3" Cat-Back (No Muffler, Turn-Down)[*] Cranked Torsion Bars[*] APC XENON PLASMA Super Whites[*] Bugshield[*] Bedliner[*] Ventshades[*] Taillight Covers (Slotted)[*] Removed Mudflaps[*] "Light Argent" 4x4 Off-Road Decals[*] K&N & Flowmaster Stickers (Under the Hood)

Audio:[*] Clarion 6675[*] Rockford Fosgate 5x7's[*] Rockford Fosgate G360A2 Punch Amp[*] JL 12W3-D2 (Ported)[*]Viper 500 Alarm

Build Date: 8/23/00 (Kansas City Plant)

arobbins@mail.liberty.k12.mo.us

 

 

Chopper,
I was going to do exactly that..
Just the thing is i havent ever had time to get a replacement housing.

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97 F150 Longbed V8 4.6
K&N air filter
K&N FIPK tech MOD & removed elbow silencer
Tires: Yokohama 265/75/16 Geolander AT+
Hyper white xenon bulbs
Bedliner and raven shell
6 disc cd changer
Oil & filter used

Gasoline used

My Truck

 

Well, yesterday I cut the very end of the airbox off instead of going all the way down to the "feet". I didn't notice much until I got on the highway...man, one hell of a difference above 2,500 RPM.

-AR

 

Hey Jackal,
could you give me more detail about this airbox mod. From your pics it looks like the set up that is found in the tech articles section of this site. I did the same mod, but not sure what you mean by the "tuner tube". Also I just removed the whole end piece from the airbox and let the filter suck engine compartment air. I have since gone back to the factory airbox with K&N. Didnt think sucking all that hot engine air was any good. YOu know of a way to direct "cold" outside air from the factory fender feed to the exposed K&N? I would love to know.
THanks

 

Those aren't my pics. I only cut the very end off where it starts to taper down to the 3" inlet, and put a stock filter cone on the tip of my K&N. Looks cool, cause only the tip of the K&N (cone tip) is exposed, making it look like a jet turbine inside the airbox. Their is a restrictive intake snorkle on the end of the airbox, fender side, and their is another restrictor inside the angle going into the throttle body. I examined the truck for a long time yesterday, and I've decided that only cutting the end off, is the best compromise of both worlds, as the long "sleeve" aka. airbox shields the filter from any air, not coming from the intake hole in the fender, or from under the hood or anti-freese reservoir. I don't think their is an easy way to allow any more fresh air into this area except for maybe directing the air inside using an angled piece of plastic or something inside the fender hole. I know that if you are using the stock airbox, it may be benefitial to remove the plastic trim valance from underneath the driver's side headlight. This could help "force" air into the area between the fender. I'm happy with the results, and I don't think it'll matter too much. It's a lot better than some of the intakes being put on these ricer racers and even some of the F-150 FIPK's. I have a "buddy" who hooked up an AirRaid to his Honda and the cone filter sits RIGHT behind the radiator.

-AR