i want to put in new spark plugs but it seems like it is impossible on my 4.6

 

I did my own, it took me about 2 hours to do, I had to remove my intake and few other things to get to all the plugs. BTW this is a good time to change the wires to.

Hey do you have any more contacts for SVT seats????



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1998 F150 STX 4.6L V8 Black w/Grey int. 6 disc CD-Changer, 5% tint, 2" drop shackles, CheckMate Flush Style bed cover, clear corners, APC Euro Clear Tails, SuperWhites, Infinity 5725cf all around, SS Speed Grille w/ bumper, Helwig rearsway bar,Superchip, Airaid, Mangecor KV8.5 wires, Bosch Plat +4, and Jardine Cat-Back single out.

Future Mods:
Pro-M, Throtle Body, Pulleys, Carbon Fiber, Headers, High Flow Cats, and Edlebrock shocks.

 

Get ready to bleed, or take it somewhere and let them bleed! It is worth the effort.

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2001 Lariat Screw. Gen.3,
5.4, 4x4, All white w/ gray interior. 4r70w tranny, no problems yet,
wrong radiator, 3.55 gears

 

I can't even find my spark plug wires(5.4)!!!!!

 

Thats because you don't have any spark plug wires. You have coil packs. The spark plugs on these new engines are a pain in the A$$ to change.

 

A friend and I are doing his 97 F-250LD with 5.4 today.

He has had three coils fail within the last month and the only thing he has come up with is he put in cheap non platinum plugs the first time he changed them. Yesterday we got some double platinum Autolite Pro plugs.


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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs,Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Sway Bar Bushings, 265 70 16 tires, Rancho RS9000 shocks,Expedition Center Console

 

Get two spark plug sockets, one with the rubber in the middle to take the plugs out and one without to put them back in (otherwise you wont be able to get the socket out of the plug hole). You will also need two short extensions and one long one. Last you will need a swivel head ratchet. Give yourself plenty of time and use plug greese when you put them back in .
I have to do mine every year because I have a Jacobs ignition and just changed them this week. You can get them all out but you will have to remove the air intake (black) system.
You will pay out the butt if you have them done for you.


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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.

 

Howdy!

Swivel heads are convenient but will put shear stress on the plugs. Probably not a good way to go. Might have to do it the hard way this time..

Have a nice day.

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My ride:

Basics:
- '99 XLT F-150

Under hood and back:
- Ram air (Don't ask me how )
- AiRaid intake
- Flowmaster DF 50 Series
- 24x3.5" Stainless steel slashed tips (Yes! Solid polished SS, no cheesy chrome-plated)
...

Outside:
- Precision polished billet grille and plate holders
- American Racing 17x8s polished Pythons (Flushed front AND back)
- Goodyear.. something tires (Expensive is all I know. LOL. No Firestone firecrackers for me either)
- Rhino liner
- Ford nerf bars
- Ford bed rails
...

Inside:
- My girlfriend!
...

Fun stuff:
- Dual sirens Black Widow alarm system/keyless entry (Enough decibels to go deaf in a garage )
- Custom driving lights (Just a cool blue)
- 2 High-Watt lights behind grille (For people who cut me off )
- Dual horns (For people who, again, cut me off)
- Dual wheel locks (So I won't be driving home on bricks!)
- Spare wheel lock (So I won't have to use a brick as a spare )
...

Best of all:
- Texas A&M University aTm front plate! Gig'em Aggies!!

Stephlan

 

A swivel headed (at least a good one) will not add any shear to the plug. A universal addapter will. I have done this four times without a single broken or damaged spark plug.

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.

 

Kewl WLF. U da man!!

 

I posted my results somewhere of my recent plug change for a 5.4, but can't remember what I called it. I think the only difference with the 4.6 is the addition of plug wires instead of the coil pack.... Either way, it's not fun or easy to do.

I used combinations of swivels and extensions that would have made a mechanic laugh and cringe at the thought of applying pressure on it. I first puchased a plug socket with a swivel attached to it. I already had several 6" extensions and 3" extensions. I also had an additional swivel as well. The front four are the easiest. Save these until last! If you can't get the back ones out for whatever reason, then at least you won't have mixed plugs. And, if you do get the back ones done, it's so nice to work on the easy ones to finish up the job with.....

Anyway, I did not have to remove the fuel injection rails or any electric connections. I did remove the plactic covers from the intake and the cover on the elec. on the firewall next to the battery. Then remove the bracket holding the power steering resevoir and move it to the side. I just removed the three screws on the top bracket. And the PCV will need to come out of the pass. side valve cover just to give some extra room.

The trick is to be able to get your hand to reach the plug first. If you can do this, then you can get the plug. The coil packs have a small 7mm screw you needed to remove first to get the pack off the plug. This caused most of the problems. Since you have the 4.6, you just need to 'pull' off the boot. Which will probably be hard to get any leverage on. Once you have the plug exposed, make sure to vaccum or blow out the hole first. I used a shop vac with a smaller, flexable 1/2" tube taped to it. This reached into the plug hole and I was sure I got any dirt or other nasty things out before removing the plug.

To get to #4, I used the swivel plug socket, 3" ext. 2nd swivel, 6" ext. then the rachet. (may have had another 3" ext in there somewhere?) Then I got the whole mess to line up as straight as it could, and turned... It broke loose and was able to hand turn the plug the rest of the way. Didn't break the plug at all. I then stuck the vaccum hose back in and did a second sweep of the hole. To put the new plug in, I used an old spark plug wire boot with about 2-3" of the original wire on the end. Used this to start the new plug in the hole. I applied some WD-40 on the threads and was able to "tighten" the plug until it seated. Then it only took a quick twist of the rachet to torque it down (with the same combo of ext as above).

All the back plugs required the use of both swivels and different combos of extensions. Another tip I found was to duct tape the joints on the extensions and swivels. This way they won't pull apart when you try to pull it off the new plug. I also sprayed WD-40 into the socket so it would come off the plug easier. It worked great.

Took me about 4 hours. One hour each for # 4 and # 7 alone.

Good luck!! Just keep saying, "It can be done, it can be done." That's what got me through the whole ordeal!!

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1997 F150 4x4 Off Road, SuperCab, Short Box, 5.4, Royal Blue/Silver, K&N, Gibson SS, LT265/75/16 Wild Country APT's

 

svtaudio,
Remember to have these two things while changing the plugs-- beer and plenty of patience. If that dosen't work, cuss it a few times,LOL. Seriously though, time and patience is all you need (in addition to the sockets, extensions, etc.).

Good Luck-You can do it!!

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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

 

i think ill just pay someone to do it.
i love the way my truck looks right now and dont want any huge dents in the side of it.

i have a real bad temper and am prone to punching and kicking the first thing i see.



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2001 Black Lightning E/T?

1998 red f150 stx 4.6 V8, clear corners, SVT seats, flowmasters, K&N filter,viper esp500 alarm,sony xplod m600 cd player.A.R.E. tonneau cover, lightning bumper cover, lightning body mouldings, lightning wheels and tires and lightning emblems billet upper and lower polished grilles, fog lights, PIAA superwhites,lightning dash kit,
white guages, cervinis ram air hood,

more pics on site coming soon.

(currently 104 pictures)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1386286&a=10343257

 

dont know where you can get the SVT seats from. i lucked out getting mine from a dealer

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1998 red f150 stx 4.6 V8, clear corners, SVT seats, flowmasters, K&N filter,viper esp500 alarm,sony xplod m600 cd player.A.R.E. tonneau cover, lightning bumper cover, lightning body mouldings, lightning wheels and tires and lightning emblems billet upper and lower polished grilles, fog lights, PIAA superwhites,lightning dash kit,
white guages, cervinis ram air hood,bilstein shocks, 01 lighting taillights, superchip,4 infinity kappa 5x7,01 erou heads and corners,

more pics on site coming soon.

(currently 104 pictures)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1386286&a=10343257