Octane Shorting Bar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Little Chute, Wisconsin
Octane Shorting Bar
I was going to locate and unplug this connections. I've heard from other people that this retards the timing. This in turns, stops the pinging. My motor was pinging so bad last night that I was going to stop and see if something happened to the motor. It was rattling and making what I would call sounds of BB'S inside of the cylinders. It only sounded like it was coming from the drivers side back cylinder. But that is hard to tell when your going down the highway. I was pulling a boat, 3000 pounds in 3rd gear. I was revving about 2900rpm going down the highway. Everytime I would hit a slight hill or push the pedal even slightly, it would ping. This morning, without the boat, I can still get it to ping. What are the disadvantages of unplugging this Shorting Bar. Where is it exactly. I know its located behind the battery, but what does it look like? Thanks for anyones help. I have tried fuel cleaners and will be replacing my fuel filter this weekend. I don't think the fuel filter has anything to do with the ping however. I have a 98 with the 4.6L. 52200 miles.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
I'm not sure if the shorting bar is on your '98, but it would retard timing if it is. If you are running a lean condition in a high load situation that will cause the ping. Since this is probably in a closed loop mode, the O2 sensors are probably happy with the exhaust gasses and are not adding fuel. One may be marginal.
Your Mass Airflow Sensor MAF can influence this some, sometimes cleaning the little sensor elements in the sensor fixes this.
Also, check for leaks on the intake side and also check fuel pressure. With too low fuel pressure, the EEC may not be able to adjust fuel enough to get the mix up.
Just some thoughts
birdman
Your Mass Airflow Sensor MAF can influence this some, sometimes cleaning the little sensor elements in the sensor fixes this.
Also, check for leaks on the intake side and also check fuel pressure. With too low fuel pressure, the EEC may not be able to adjust fuel enough to get the mix up.
Just some thoughts
birdman
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Hi Chuck,
Birdman gave some excellent advice!
You do have an octane shorting bar, and what happens if you remove it is that the timing is altered, and spark advance is reduced, but you also lose power very noticeably if you do that, so that is the downside.
As long as you aren't getting any check engine lights, the first easy thing to do is to make sure you're using high-quality gasoline, as many people buy their gas based on price alone, and that can lead to problems with detonation many times when you;re under a heavy load like that situation you described. You get the octane number ok most of the time, but the fuel's actual energy content is lower, so that can cause detonation too. You may already be using a great quality gasoline, I have no idea, so I'm just suggesting here............
Try using your local Texaco brand for a few tanks and see if that doesn't take care of the problem, as Texaco is usually among the best fuels in most places here in this country, more often than not.
Some brands to avoid are: BP (high sulphur content & spotty energy content), Exxon (burns clean but very low energy content), and then any no-name or off-brands.
Usually Texaco, Amoco, & Citgo tend to do a good job in most locations. Others can work well too, like Shell for example seems to do a decent job here in the East. Chevron works well out on the West Coast, and there will always be exceptions here and there. But generally spoeaking, anytime you have detonation with the stock factory computer program running on 87 octane, the first thing you do is to make sure you're using the best quality 87 octane available in your area. A higher energy content gasoline will also give better gas mileage, so it's always in your best interests to use the very best quality fuel available, if you aren't already.
If you can cure this by using a better quality fuel, you'll be much better off and happier driving compared to removing the octane shorting bar and loosing that power.
If a better fuel doesn't work, then go thru and check everything that Birdman mentioned, as that is good advice indeed.
Good luck!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer
[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 04-05-2001).]
Birdman gave some excellent advice!
You do have an octane shorting bar, and what happens if you remove it is that the timing is altered, and spark advance is reduced, but you also lose power very noticeably if you do that, so that is the downside.
As long as you aren't getting any check engine lights, the first easy thing to do is to make sure you're using high-quality gasoline, as many people buy their gas based on price alone, and that can lead to problems with detonation many times when you;re under a heavy load like that situation you described. You get the octane number ok most of the time, but the fuel's actual energy content is lower, so that can cause detonation too. You may already be using a great quality gasoline, I have no idea, so I'm just suggesting here............
Try using your local Texaco brand for a few tanks and see if that doesn't take care of the problem, as Texaco is usually among the best fuels in most places here in this country, more often than not.
Some brands to avoid are: BP (high sulphur content & spotty energy content), Exxon (burns clean but very low energy content), and then any no-name or off-brands.
Usually Texaco, Amoco, & Citgo tend to do a good job in most locations. Others can work well too, like Shell for example seems to do a decent job here in the East. Chevron works well out on the West Coast, and there will always be exceptions here and there. But generally spoeaking, anytime you have detonation with the stock factory computer program running on 87 octane, the first thing you do is to make sure you're using the best quality 87 octane available in your area. A higher energy content gasoline will also give better gas mileage, so it's always in your best interests to use the very best quality fuel available, if you aren't already.
If you can cure this by using a better quality fuel, you'll be much better off and happier driving compared to removing the octane shorting bar and loosing that power.
If a better fuel doesn't work, then go thru and check everything that Birdman mentioned, as that is good advice indeed.
Good luck!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer
[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 04-05-2001).]
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Little Chute, Wisconsin
I lightly cleaned the mass air flow wire with a cotton swab and some windex. Is there any other way to clean this? I don't want to mess it up and end up buying another one. I do run Citgo and Mobil gas in my truck. I have had a FORD mechanic tell me to run premium in my truck every 4th tank to clean the injectors and such. He said that primium has better cleaners in it and helps the motor more. I didn't think that was a good idea so I have not run anything but 87 octane in my truck.