I am about to open up the stock hole in the fender to 6 inches. Then stick a 6 inch ABS pipe through it with a bevel end(the one that goes in the fender, sort of an "air catcher"). Then using the front half of the stock airbox, i will remove the stock tubing and open it up to 6 inches to meet with the 6 inch ABS that is already mounted on the fender. With the AIRAID intake already installed, this will house the filter in the modified front half which would serve as a COLD AIR INDUCTION. Should I expect any negative results from this or this should improve the intake? BTW, I am going to use an air saw to cut the hole. this should make it "neat"

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2000 EXPEDITION 4.6 3.31 Rear, AIRAID Fipk with Poweraid Spacer, UltraFlow muffler, 82 mm Mass Air Flow Sensor housing w/ stock sensor, 6.8 inch TV with tuner/VCP, Full alarm and Auto-Start, Daytime Running Lights

New Addition:

2001 F150 SUPERCAB 5.4L 3.55 LS, Airaid FIPK, 82 mm MAF sensor billet aluminum housing w/ stock sensor, Full alarm and auto-start, 50 series 3 chamber 3inch in/out Deltaflow Flowmaster
Swept Side style, Beltech 2 inch rear shackles, SUPERCHIP, billet grille, Lariat wheels and tires (275/60/17), Billet antenna by TRENDZ.

COMING SOON:
pulleys, remove cats, 2 inch drop all around.

 

Truckin magazine recently had this done to a Lightning. They cut a larger hole and picked up a few more HP. I've thought about doing this ever since I installed the FIPK.

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1999 4x4 F250 LightDuty XLT SuperCab 5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster exhaust, K&N FIPK, Superchip, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear swaybar, Stull billet grille, PIAA Air Dam with 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (85W Superwhites), 4-KC Daylighters (150W), Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift, 33/12.5/17 ProComp Mud Terrains on 17x8 American Racing Atlas Rims. Kenwood 7007 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers, MTX Thunderforms. CompuStar alarm/autostart.

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

hi max mitchell, it is more to allow cooler air to make it to the air filter. here in arizona, it gets to about 115 degrees in the summer which is not far from now. I just want "not" to loose power in the summer.

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2000 EXPEDITION 4.6 3.31 Rear, AIRAID Fipk with Poweraid Spacer, UltraFlow muffler, 82 mm Mass Air Flow Sensor housing w/ stock sensor, 6.8 inch TV with tuner/VCP, Full alarm and Auto-Start, Daytime Running Lights

New Addition:

2001 F150 SUPERCAB 5.4L 3.55 LS, Airaid FIPK, 82 mm MAF sensor billet aluminum housing w/ stock sensor, Full alarm and auto-start, 50 series 3 chamber 3inch in/out Deltaflow Flowmaster
Swept Side style, Beltech 2 inch rear shackles, SUPERCHIP, billet grille, Lariat wheels and tires (275/60/17), Billet antenna by TRENDZ.

COMING SOON:
pulleys, remove cats, 2 inch drop all around.

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

He is enlarging the hole in the fender and putting a 6in pipe to the air filter. The bigger the hole/pipe, the more cold air will enter the air filter. This will promote the usage of cold air from outside rather than the hot air trapped under the hood. So it doesn't even play apart with the elbow to the intake track. He is just putting in a homemade ram air system which will definetly increase performance especially in Arizona where the weather is extremely hot.

On another note, yes the most restrictive area is the TB. Although if you can open up all the other lines to the TB, you would increase performance even though you still have the 70mm TB restriction. If you increase the size of the intake tube, you would have a greater amount of air flowing into the engine without the frictional effects from the side of the tube. This limits restrictions. So the size of the TB along with small cheap plastic intake lines, small hole in the fender, etc all create drag which is a restriction to the air flow. Why not reduce this drag by using larger and smoother lines?

My $0.02
kev

 

Bravo kev. I caught a lot of flack in the past when I posted the advantages of an open airfilter (filter pac) as apposed to a closed one with the stock hole in the side. I also stated the fact that friction will have a greater negative effect then the air temp (at least here on the east coast where it rarely reaches 90). Although the hole size is greater then the throttle body, you have to measure the friction over the entire length of the intake. Larger hole, less friction because the air outside the filter is moving slower...
No one seemed to understand what I was saying.

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

A six inch pipe will allow the 70mm TB to suck in air EASIER. First of all there is more air in the pipe now and it doesn't have to pull as much air in from all of the way up the tube and the fenderwell. I can give you formulas to prove that the drag coefficient will effect less of the air in the tube which in turn will make more air flow quicker and easier into the TB, MAF, etc.

Yes when it comes to the TB, MAF, and other bottlenecks in the system,you should have proper camphers into each of these componets to ensure even flow into the component.

As to your question about the air flow rates in the fender, I don't know that answer. You are correct with the fact that if you aren't getting enough air into that fender, the size of the pipe leading to the air filter will not matter. On my car, I deleted the pipe going into the fender and instead ran two 3" pipes from the lower spoiler of the car right under the front lights and hooked them straight into the airbox. Now this is true ram air. The air box has all of the air it will ever need because not only is the engine sucking air, the speed of the car is pushing air in. Although with this mod, I have to disconnect these lines when I drive in the rain because I don't want water being forced into the system. Then again this car is driven less than 2K miles a year and is rarely ever in the rain or snow.

kev

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

Good argument but wrong context. You already create turbulent flow by using a filter. No way around that. Hopefully you have an aftermarket delivery system that attempts to reestablish your laminar flow with smooth tubing and bends (K&N FILTER Pack). The other thing you forget is the air is not flowing passively thru the throttle body but being pulled thru by a large pump called an engine. Everything else is friction.
Make it simple, a very large volume of air has to move. On the back side of the filter (away from the engine) the less that air has to contact a surface or flow thru a tube, the less friction is created. This is the only thing that adds up to 10% HP with the use of a filter pac. As for part throttle, if that is your point, why bother... All this is done for WOT HP... As for RAM AIR, anytime you can increase the pressure in the intake you make the pump work better... thats why people supercharge...
Sorry about the lengthy reply...

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.

 

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[This message has been edited by max mitchell (edited 04-02-2001).]

 

MM
Man don't be so glum. I just love a good debate.
Truth is I wouldn't take a saw to the body of my truck for anything...

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.