There has been a lot of discussion about switching to synthetic oil from dino, but what I want to know is: Is there any potential problems going from synthetic back to dino oil? I've used Mobil 1 since 500 mi. and now at 25K mi. I'm thinking about saving some money and going to a good dino oil. Any thoughts?

 

Should be no problems, synthetic justs lasts longer than regular. You should change your oil every 3K with conventional oil as opposed to 7.5K with synthetic.

-Jon

 

That's what I figured. I think I'll go with Castrol or Valvoline - don't know which is better, but I used Castrol in a 1995 Aerostar for 100K mi. with no problems.

 

For Dino oil a mechanic friend of mine recommends Pennzoil (even though he doesn't sell it).

 

How long are you going with the Mobil 1?

Ever think about stretching out your oil change instead of using an inferior oil??

I don't see why Mobil 1 couldn't go 7500 miles or so! Heck I used to use Castrol syntec @ 8K changes. That was until I found Amsoil

As far as switching back and ror all modern engine oil's are compatible with synthetic as long as they have they have the same API rating, ex. API SJ

 

Yeah, I've been changing my Mobil 1 every 3K mi.
I know, I know, I didn't need to do that. Guess I was just being **** about the oil. Maybe you're right - I could stick with the synthetic and force myself to let the odometer roll past 3,000 mi, but it will probably freak me out!

 

Why not go with 5k miles and rotate those expensive tires at the same time.

 

Tell you what, run the stuff 5K then do an oil analysis. This will cost you about $14-20 depending where you get it done. This will prove to you the oil is still good and doing its job.

The next time run it 7500, then do an oil analysis, same deal.

I'm sure you could go past 10K no problems. Did you know that most european cars specify 10-15K for oil changes in the owners manual?

Ask anyone with a VW to check their owners manual.

Good Luck,

 

Great, change your oil more often with regular oil, get the acids and combustion byproducts out of your engine. I get cases of oil on sale with rebates for $.59 to $.69 per quart, Havoline, Castrol, Quaker State. 5W30 in spring, summer, fall, 5W20 in winter. Motorcraft oil filter, FL820S, at Walmart for $2.87, my Contour takes the same filter. Thats a $7 oil change every 2,500 miles, put on about 15k a year. Detergents or not, I like getting all the combustion byproducts and acids out of my engine regularly.
Dino in the engine, Amsoil in the Tranny, and differencials.

 

Good points (from all).Does anyone have any comments on Mobil Oil (non-synthetic)?
Is it any good?

 

Is there a different type of oil filter needed for synthetic oil? I don't think there is, but just want to be sure.

 

Filtration--- that's a whole different subject!!

You want to use the best filtration that you can afford!

The better the filter works the more contaminants that can be removed and therefore the less engine wear.

I personally have an oil filter that can remove particles smaller than 1 micron.

most full flow filters can only filter down to 30 microns or so. Some of the best full flow filters and filter in the 18-20 micron range pretty good.

But to answer your question, you don't need a special filter when using synthetic oil's.

 

Sorry to get off topic guys. But what filter works down to 1 micron? Is it a full flow filter?

What are some other good filters? Preferably ones that I can buy locally, not mail/internet order.

 

Take a look at Mobil 1 filter, K&N filter, Pur 1 filter. AC Delco Ultra Gold and of coarse Amsoil SDF Filter(I'm sure there is a local amsoil dealer in your area.)

Anyhow there are many by-pass filtration systems on the market that are capable of filtration below 1 micron.

Here is a cool article I found by the EPA that promotes responsible environment resource oil management.

http://www.epa.gov/NE/steward/neeat/muni/filters.pdf

also another article:
http://www.dieselsite.com/prodrev/microntest.htm