I know you have to run something in your engine for a few minutes to flush out all the dino oil. The problem is that nobody has ever posted what they used. I am getting ready to switch, so any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Lok

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1997 F-150 Supercab 4X4,Royal Blue,4.6 V-8, Tow Package,3.55 LS,
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Pics at: http://www.f150world.com/loknload/

 

I remember seeing the topic, but I don't remember... I just did mine today wit 2600 miles on it... leaving the remains of the dino-oil in it won't hurt a thing as the Mobil 1 I used is fully compatible.

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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners, Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard, Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way) Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console, Bully Stainless Steel Trailer hitch drawbarw/ 2" stainless steel ball.
List of planned mods: Clear tails, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...

93 Probe GT teal, OE rims painted to match, bone stock drivetrain.

 

some fools use tranny fluid with there old oil to flush the system when switching over
ps dont do this to yours
just drain and refill with new oil

 

I have never flushed with anything - after all what would you use, more conventional oil? There are flushes out there but they can cause engine damage because they have no viscosity.

Just make sure you get as much of the old oil out as possible. I usually drain overnight.

Synthetic and conventional oils are compatible, you just want to get the old stuff out.

The big issue is not to break in a new engine on synthetic.

BTW, not all synthetics are created equal. I used to use Castrol Syntec until they cheaped out and started using conventional stock for their "synthetic" oil. Mobil went to court arguing that Syntec is really not a synthetic oil anymore but lost.

Now I only use Mobil 1.

Ian


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99 Expedition EB
5.4l, 4x4, 4.10'S
WMS Tube, Bassani Cat Back Exhaust.
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The engineers that make the dodge vipor, the corvetter, the Jaguar, and another car, (I can't remember which one) must have never heard of the issue of not breaking in a new engine with synthetic...because the above mentioned cars come off the assembly line with pure mobil one in them. It is a myth that breaking in an engine with sythetic is a no-no.

You can use a good engine flush, like K & W, found at autozone or advance auto to flush your engine. It is perfectly fine to use an engine flush, and is even beneficial becuase it cleans the sludge, dirt and grime out of the engine. My truck had 89k when I bought it. I changed the oil and filter, (using Penziol Dino oil) and drove it 100 miles. I added a quart of engine flush and let it idle 10 minutes. (never drive your truck with engine flush, only let it idle, if you don't drive it, it will be FINE) and then drained and refilled with penziol dino oil and new filter. THEN I drove it 500 miles, and added another can of engine flush. Let it idle 10 minutes and then drained it and put in Mobil one synthetic and a mobil one filter.
I am satisfied that I have a nice clean engine.

Sorry for the long post, but 2 points here

1. Synthetic is fine to break an engine in. Ask any Viper, Corvette, or Jaguar engineer,

2. K & W engine flush is a great SAFE way to clean your engine from sludge, varnish, grime... and lastly, all that old dino oil

 

rtifactman: IT's OK to break in THOSE engines with Mobil 1, but not a Ford MOD motor. Vettes have special rings so they will seat correctly with syn oil. Ford trucks don't.

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2000 f150-Not according to the experts that make Mobil one, and other synthetics.
Synthetics have the same specs as dyno oil.
--and will break in an engine the same as any other oil.

course it's all up to you, if someone doesn't feel comfortable with something, that's their right, it's their truck, their investment, and their toy.

 

OK guys, Higher priced engines or higher quality engines like the Viper or others are put together different than yours. When an engine is bored and honed the cylinders are stright. After they tighten the heads down the cylinders distorte just slightly. This lends to a breakin period and a good oil that reduces friction better than another average oil will take longer to breakin than an average oil. An engine like the Viper is put together a different way. They use a 2 inch thick torque plate with holes in it like the cylinders. They torque it down and then hone the cylinders. This makes the cylinders perfect for breakin with any oil.

Sorry if for my spelling, I'm doing this fast.

Sincerely, Kevin

PS 5,000 miles is fine for breakin on a gasser and 10,000 for a diesel.

 

agree with you rtifactman about mobil 1 and k&w eng. flush. have used both for many years and miles. used both in my '91 camaro 305...ran it at road atlanta and daily driver--175,000 miles on it when i sold it. i bot a used '97 f-150 xlt, 4.6, auto trans after i got serious about bass fishing. love this truck...it gets the mobil/kw treatment about every 10,000 miles. just installed 75mm. throttle body, superchip, and flowmaster. waiting on airforce one kit.

 

AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected
blend of solvents and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse
harmful deposits formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings
of an internal combustion engine. When used as directed, it cleans and
restores operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and
pistons for improved horsepower, fuel economy, and performance. Use
before changing oil. Product Code: AEF

Why Clean Your Engine?

Chances are, when your engine was new it delivered the power and fuel
efficiency it was designed for. But now, as your engine accumulates miles,
things are happening that are adversely affecting its performance. Slowly
but surely, your engine is gathering harmful deposits that will eventually
cost you money.

Even though you may follow a routine service schedule, your driving
conditions may be far from routine. Stop and go driving, prolonged periods of idling, short trips that don't
allow your engine time to warm up, towing a trailer, the ingestion of airborne dirt, fuel dilution, water
condensation, and oxidized oil will eventually cause the formation of a thick, gummy deposit known as
sludge. Settling throughout the engine, sludge will clog oil passages, restricting the flow of oil to vital engine
parts, especially in the upper valve train areas.

 

Lok,
I used the Amsoil engine flush when I switched oils-bought my truck used w/92K, and the prev. owner was running Shell Rotella T 15-40 in her. I ran the amsoil through with some Havoline 10-30 then refilled with Mobil 5W-30--the famous "blue bottle stuff". I cleaned out my pan that I drain oil into, let the drained oil sit over-nite, then poured it into a container w/a pair of pantyhose over the opening to catch the solitified "gunk". All I can say is D@MN I wouldn't have thought there was that much "gunk" in there.
Point: I think the Amsoil is much better than any cheap 5minute stuff from the parts store.
SORRY so LONG

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