I came across an interesting article in the current issue of AMI Auto World Weekly on Synthetic oil (Feb 27th, 2001). On pg 38, it has a "myth and fact section" which covers a couple of topics which are constantly mentioned here on F150online. The entire article is a very good read for anyone interested.

Synthetic Oil Myths
Myth:Never break in a new engine with synthetic oil. It's too slippery and won't allow rings and other parts to seat properly.

Fact: The Chevrolet Corvette, the Dodge Viper, and all Porsche models are factory-filled with the same Mobil 1 synthetic oil that you can buy off the shelf. It's okay to break in any engine with synthetic oil.

Myth:Never switch to synthetic oil after 30,000 miles with mineral-based oil. It will cause seals to leak or other bad things to happen.

Fact: The experts we spoke with agree that it's fine to switch to synthetic oil at any time, even after 100,000 miles. "A good synthetic is designed to swell seals at the same rate as mineral-based oil," says Bill Maxwell of Mobil. He adds, however, that not all early synthetic oils were seal-compatible. He believes those oils are off the market today. Synthetic oil with no ester component WILL cause seals to shrink, while an all ester synthetic (often used in jet engines) will overswell seals. So don't pour jet oil in your Trans Am.



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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/auxiliary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000

 

Cool,
that's interesting to me because, (no offense anyone) but everyone here, for the most part aren't 'experts', knowing what the 'experts' have to say is nice, especially since I battled with switching to synthetic for the same reasons listed int eh article.

Were there anymore facts/myths listed?
I know it's alot to type, maybe you can scan the article and post it?

Thans for the info!

 

Thanks Dustoff.

 

There is more good information in the article. The experts they spoke with were from GM and Mobil oil. They list 3 types of driving conditions..and what they recommend.

First...highway drivers can stick with regular dino oil..as it is more than enough protection.

Second: People who tow, heavy performance use, cold climates or drive in the city with regular stop and go traffic will greatly benefit from a synthetic...much more so than a regular dino oil. Regular oil will begin to thicken at +20 degrees..where a Synthetic will not.

Third..those that get in their car, drive 3 blocks to the post office, then return right home do not need to use a synthetic because the oil (no matter what type) will need to be replaced before the recommended 3,000 interval. The engine never has a chance to "burn off" the water and fuel condensation that forms in the engine oil.

Evidently Mobil 1, "has a strong acid-neutralizing additive to control the corrosive effects of acids that are a natural byproduct of combustion."

I have scanned the 3 page article..if anyone would be interested in posting it here...let me know..I will send it to you. Post your e-mail and I will get it out ASAP.

 

Dustoff,

I'd love to see the article.

kennedy-jim@home.com

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-->Come share my Addiction<--

 

Dustoff,
I was going to post a new thread but, I figured that there is enough talk about synthetic oils. Anyway, my question is when someone switches to synthetic oil, are you suppose to use an oil filter designed for synthetic oil or can you use a regular filter like the motorcraft filter?? Thanks. Bugman.

 

I have used both. The Mobil 1 filter says it is designed to be used with synthetic oil, however, from what I have read (and I am NOT an expert)..any quality oil filter will work just fine.

The Mobil 1 filter says it uses a synthetic media to trap finer particles. Who knows for sure. I use it...a few more bucks is no big deal. Once in a while, I will use a Motorcraft filter just for the heck of it.

You will be just fine using a regular oil filter.


I am going to set up an account and upload them today. They are too large to e-mail (1MB).
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/auxiliary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000



[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 02-25-2001).]

 

I first started using Synthetic products in my 91 300Z because they were recomended by the manufacturer. When I traded that on my 95 Vette there was a big sticker on the radiator shroud that said to use Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil only. When I traded the 95 Vette for my 98 NASCAR F150, it only had 2,370 miles on it and I immediately drained the oil and put in Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. It has 5,300 miles now and when I change oil next week I will be using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter. I know you can go 7000 miles between changing using synthetic, but when you only put 3000 miles on a vehicle a year, the cost ain't gonna break my bank. Besides that, a pack of cigarettes cost 3.00 a pack and if you by them by the carton, you can afford 6 quarts of Mobil 1 every 3000 miles. Since I don't smoke, gotta spend that cigarette money on something don't I? Whether your baby is a rice burner or American made, if you're like me, you want every bit of performance possible out of it. If synthetic oil helps it run cooler due to less friction, then that translates to more usable horse power and a longer running engine. I'll take both.


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98 NASCAR Special Edition
1OF600 w/ Auto & Tonnaue
K&N FIPK
Hypertech Power Prog.
JET 180 degree thermostat
Hellwig SportTech swaybar
Gibson SuperTruck CatBack
Pilot SS Resonated Tips
Shelf-It overhead storage
Hella FF300 Fog Lights in grill.

[This message has been edited by OMEGA5 (edited 02-25-2001).]

 

Here is the article...click on the link then click the picture to enlarge.

Pg1: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewP...965&p=41965824

Pg2: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewP...965&p=41965818

Pg3: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewP...965&p=41965812



[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 02-25-2001).]

 

Once again, thanks Dustoff.

 

Thanks Dustoff
That was great information.
Thanks for taking the time to post it for us.

 

Yup, that was great. I found the best part to be the section entitled "what oil does".

But seriously, Thanks for making that available.



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Bambino Online
Owners Gallery Truck #179
1999 reg cab/short box/ORP - 3.55; 4.6l 5sp; factory snapless tonneau; twin 6" kicker sub tubes; Custom Exhaust

 

rtifactman wrote:

"Cool, that's interesting to me because, (no offense anyone) but everyone here, for the most part aren't 'experts', knowing what the 'experts' have to say is nice, especially since I battled with switching to synthetic for the same reasons listed int eh article."

That's why I love this board. People talk from experience rather than just theory. I'll take experience every time.

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* 2000 F-150 XLT Black FS; 5.4L
* 4x4 ORP
* 3.55 Limited Slip
* Stepups
* Sliding Rear Window
* 6-Way Power Seat
* Remote Keyless Entry
* Lund Trident Bug Shield
* Custom Exhaust
* Fumoto Oil Drain Plug Valve (a must for do-it-yourselfers!)
* Wise Bedrug

So many mods, so little cash! On the up side, no wife to create a filibuster.

 

The story/ facts I'd like to see discussed by experts is the " The true differences between the off the shelf synthetics vs. the Redline types". Not on-line B.S. but the real deal.

Bob