Anybody know what the starter M circuit is and where it is located? If you have the chilton's manual look up started testing and you'll see what i'm talking about.

 

Starter testing not started testing.

 

Sorry about all the posts in a row. Think this might be the problem? The truck hasn't rolled back or anything so it might be going into park. I have no idea if it is in park or not.

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 97V171000

Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC:INDICATOR:LEVER:GEAR
Manufacturer: FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Mfg. Campaign #: 97S86
Year: 1997
Make: FORD TRUCK
Model: F150
Potential Number of Units Affected: 866000
Manufactured From: JUL 1996 To: AUG 1997
Year of Recall: '97
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:


Vehicle Description: Light duty pickup trucks and multi-purpose passenger vehicles. If the automatic transmission shift cable assembly was not fully attached to the steering column bracket, the shift cable assembly can come out of the bracket. The vehicle operator would then not be able to shift the transmission from one of the drive gear positions into the park position even though the gear shift selector would indicate "Park."

The condition would not allow a disengagement of the transmission from the park position or affect proper neutral start switch operation. Unintended vehicle movement could occur if the parking brake was not set.

Dealers will make the proper attachment of the transmission shift control cable to the steering column bracket and add a tie strap to that connection. Owner notification is expected to begin October 20, 1997. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Ford at 1-800-392-3673. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-800-424-9393.

 

On my 1992 F150 battery acid actually leaked and deteriorated the inside of my positive cable to the starter. It looked good and red on the outside, but after sawing it in half found that it was rotten inside. Bought a new cable for $7 and ran it parralel to the original cable. I believe it had about 36,400 miles so of course it was out of warranty. I always kept the new starter as a spare, never needed it. Just something to verify.

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2001 SuperCrew XLT White w/gray interior, pwr seat, console, Bed Extender,Autolight, Class III Hitch, Duraliner,
4x2,5.4,3.55,built 6/00
New Transmission 10/00
Pioneer FH-P4400 HU
Pioneer CDX-P1250 12-Disc CD Changer In Console
Pioneer TS-A6895 Front
Pioneer TS-A6865 Rear
Pioneer GM-X542 Amp bridged at 150W RMS
Bazooka RS-604 under rear seat

 

yep i was just going to ask if it was really in park. had the same prob with my sons camaro last weekend. he hadn't put it all the way into park.
can you shift the truck into neutral and try to start it. or just shift it out of park and then back in. then try it.
just a thought

terry

 

It isn't the tranny not being in park. I put it in reverse and it didn't even click then I put it in neutral and it clicked. I cleaned all the connections I could find. The on;y other 2 things I can think of is that the alternator is shorting and that is drawing enough current so it won't start or there are some bad wires between the starter and the battery.

 

King
It sure sounds like the heavy starter cable runnimg from the firewall mounted starter relay to the starter solenoid( part of the starter). The heavier red wire powers the starter off the battery. The smaller red wire engages the solenoid. The "M" is the actual motor. It could be either of those red wires possibly in the moulded connector at the starter relay. If it was the park/neutral safety switch, you wouldn't get a click at the solenoid.

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97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF

 

It might be a fusible link near the starter.This happened to a 94 taurus that my wife owned. Wouldn't start, could not be jumped. Had to be towed to dealer. They replaced a fusible link ( red heavy wire ) near the starter.

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Dennis

 

At the starter relay on the firewall, pull off the small wire, it brings 12 volts to the relay's coil. Then with your own wire, doesn't have to be anything heavy, jump the coil terminal on the relay to 12 volts, directly to the battery positive post. Do this in Park with ignition Off.
If it cranks, then the problem is upstream from the relay. Order of circuit flow is 12 volts through a fuse, then antitheft relay if you have RAP, ignition switch, no-clutch jumper, trans safety switch, to relay's coil terminal.
If it didn't crank above, then take off rubber protector on that heavy terminal of relay, then connect the two heavy terminals together with the jaw of a jumper cable. Be sure not to touch anything else with that clamp, and the other end of that jumper cable better be on the ground, so its not welding your sheet metal.
If it cranks then, then the relay is bad, or it lost its negative side ground through its bracket.
If still no cranking, then its something very basic. Battery and connections, cable down to starter, starter, or battery ground cable or connection.