dumb question re: dyno testing
dumb question re: dyno testing
Lots of smart people on this forum, and I'm grateful for all the new knowledge I've picked up recently - thanks to everyone.
I hate asking a dumb question, but what the heck, I've had no luck finding this in previous posts.
How do I get my truck dyno tested?
Can any garage do it, or is it something I get done at the dealer?
How long does it take?
Is this test accurate?
and finally, how much does it cost? (ballpark)
A sheepish thank you
Habibi
I hate asking a dumb question, but what the heck, I've had no luck finding this in previous posts.
How do I get my truck dyno tested?
Can any garage do it, or is it something I get done at the dealer?
How long does it take?
Is this test accurate?
and finally, how much does it cost? (ballpark)
A sheepish thank you
Habibi
You will have to find a dyno in your area first. Most dealers don't have them, check with local performance shops. I think Dynojet has some type of locator on the 'net.
Once you find one and get scheduled, it's not hard at all. They strap the truck onto the dyno. This is simply putting the back tires on the roller and strapping it down.
Then you just let it rip. On automatic equipped trucks they usually ask for your shift points as most operators want to run the truck in third gear. The idea is to find the lowest speed that you can floor the gas without the truck downshifting into 2nd gear.
In this area, most guys get $40-$50 per single run. Everyone that I know of gives a break for more than one run, as the still only have to strap the truck down once. Often second and consecutive runs are half the first run price.
Once you find one and get scheduled, it's not hard at all. They strap the truck onto the dyno. This is simply putting the back tires on the roller and strapping it down.
Then you just let it rip. On automatic equipped trucks they usually ask for your shift points as most operators want to run the truck in third gear. The idea is to find the lowest speed that you can floor the gas without the truck downshifting into 2nd gear.
In this area, most guys get $40-$50 per single run. Everyone that I know of gives a break for more than one run, as the still only have to strap the truck down once. Often second and consecutive runs are half the first run price.
As SM said, do a search(www.google.com is my favorite) on Dynojets in your area. Down here, you will pay from $60-75.00(US) for 2 to 3 pulls.
I would disconnect the neg. battery cable, turn on the headlights--wait at least 5 mins. Then turn the h/l switch off and reconnect the battery cable. Be sure the air pressure in your rear tires is equal, tire-to-tire. Unequal psi can throw the readings off. Don't let the loud eng. noise startle you--it will be loud --LOL, I thought that I had broken my eng. Put it in drive with the OD off and run it up to 3-3,100 rpms and then floor it. When it get's the redline or at whatever rpm you want to take it too, let off of the gas--do not hit the brakes.
Dan
I would disconnect the neg. battery cable, turn on the headlights--wait at least 5 mins. Then turn the h/l switch off and reconnect the battery cable. Be sure the air pressure in your rear tires is equal, tire-to-tire. Unequal psi can throw the readings off. Don't let the loud eng. noise startle you--it will be loud --LOL, I thought that I had broken my eng. Put it in drive with the OD off and run it up to 3-3,100 rpms and then floor it. When it get's the redline or at whatever rpm you want to take it too, let off of the gas--do not hit the brakes.
Dan
No doubt about the noise. It's amazing how much noise really exists when you're standing still.
I saw a built big block blower equipped Mopar street rod on a dyno at one of the local shows. Awesome. I thought it was going to rip the tie downs off and lauch off the dyno!
I saw a built big block blower equipped Mopar street rod on a dyno at one of the local shows. Awesome. I thought it was going to rip the tie downs off and lauch off the dyno!



