Knocking and pinging
I have a 97' F-150, 4.6 liter (I know I'm still kicking myself for it.) I have increased gas milage pretty good with all the things I have done to it. The trouble I'm having is the same as a guy in Iowa with his 89'. During normal driving conditions my truck knocks and pings. It happens at highway speeds and in city driving and I have no idea why. It didn't do this before. So why now? I have a K@N air filtration kit, Tornado air induction kit, Flowmaster exhaust, with dual pipes. I do the oil and maintenance things to it plus add fuel injection cleaner every oil change. Its been tuned up already.
I was told adjusting the timing would solve my problem but I'm not sure. Anyone got any suggestions I'd could really use the help.
Thanks.
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I was told adjusting the timing would solve my problem but I'm not sure. Anyone got any suggestions I'd could really use the help.
Thanks.
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I am looking for suggestions as well since I am having the same problem.
Some move up to higher octane gas to solve the problem.
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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.
Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
Some move up to higher octane gas to solve the problem.
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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.
Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
Maybe it's the gas you are using. I've just been running an experiment with my truck (99 4.6/auto) using different brands of gas. After reading all the posts in the computer chips section on gas quality, and suffering from a knocking/pinging motor I decided to try my experiment. Up unitl about 4 tankfulls ago I was using Coastal 89 octange.
My truck didnt like their 87. Using the 89 it would only knock during WOT acceleration.
Decided to try name brand 87 octange gas.
So far Gulf 87 is the best, no knocking/pinging at any speed or load.
Sunoco 87 ,OK but a small amount of knocking.
Texaco 87, again OK but a small amount of Knocking.
So my opinion is to try some other brands of gas in you area and see how the truck runs.
Hobbit
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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, still want a Superchip and by golly I'm gonna get one (just as soon and I hit the lottery
)
My truck didnt like their 87. Using the 89 it would only knock during WOT acceleration.
Decided to try name brand 87 octange gas.
So far Gulf 87 is the best, no knocking/pinging at any speed or load.
Sunoco 87 ,OK but a small amount of knocking.
Texaco 87, again OK but a small amount of Knocking.
So my opinion is to try some other brands of gas in you area and see how the truck runs.
Hobbit
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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, still want a Superchip and by golly I'm gonna get one (just as soon and I hit the lottery
)
Just a bit of advice. Going to a higher octane is only masking the real problem. You have an owners manual that should tell you the octane rating for your engine. Use what the manual says! If you get ping, try another brand. Still get ping? Take to dealer! You got a problem!
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Rand
98 Ford Expedition 4X4 XLT
5.4, 3.73s, 17" wheels,
Homemade 3" "COLD" Air-Box
mod, SuperChip, Amsoil
everywhere but tranny, Perma-
Cool combo 6 pass trans/oil
cooler (FQR 5.4 @ 50K)
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Rand
98 Ford Expedition 4X4 XLT
5.4, 3.73s, 17" wheels,
Homemade 3" "COLD" Air-Box
mod, SuperChip, Amsoil
everywhere but tranny, Perma-
Cool combo 6 pass trans/oil
cooler (FQR 5.4 @ 50K)
There have been several threads on this subject -- and some point a finger at the MAF sensor -- and the 'fix' is to clean it (carefully) with a Q-tip and (windex??).
It seems that the culprit is suspected to be trace oil from the K&N filter causing the MAF to not properly sense the air/fuel ratio and causing it to run a bit lean.
Do a search and report back with your results/observations, please.
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Y2K™ 7700 4x4
Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
It seems that the culprit is suspected to be trace oil from the K&N filter causing the MAF to not properly sense the air/fuel ratio and causing it to run a bit lean.
Do a search and report back with your results/observations, please.
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Y2K™ 7700 4x4
Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
Thanks for the advice. I'll be taking it to the dealer tomorrow. By the way, what is a MAF sensor?
I see your from Kal. MI. I take it you have been to Silver Lake? Went there last summer had a pretty good time.
Thanks again.
I see your from Kal. MI. I take it you have been to Silver Lake? Went there last summer had a pretty good time.
Thanks again.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jgorka:
There have been several threads on this subject -- and some point a finger at the MAF sensor -- and the 'fix' is to clean it (carefully) with a Q-tip and (windex??).
It seems that the culprit is suspected to be trace oil from the K&N filter causing the MAF to not properly sense the air/fuel ratio and causing it to run a bit lean.
Do a search and report back with your results/observations, please.
</font>
There have been several threads on this subject -- and some point a finger at the MAF sensor -- and the 'fix' is to clean it (carefully) with a Q-tip and (windex??).
It seems that the culprit is suspected to be trace oil from the K&N filter causing the MAF to not properly sense the air/fuel ratio and causing it to run a bit lean.
Do a search and report back with your results/observations, please.
</font>
The oil on the MAF is usually from excessive re-oiling when cleaning it. Just guessing, it could be fuel pump, carbon build up in the heads, O2 Sensors.
I don't think you can adjust the timing on these engines, there's no distributor.
I've heard of people using sprays used for cleaning electronics to clean the MAF. Be careful with the wire.
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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.
1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17
My Home Page
[This message has been edited by 2000 F150 4x4 (edited 12-29-2000).]
I don't think you can adjust the timing on these engines, there's no distributor.
I've heard of people using sprays used for cleaning electronics to clean the MAF. Be careful with the wire.
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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.
1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17
My Home Page
[This message has been edited by 2000 F150 4x4 (edited 12-29-2000).]
Trending Topics
MAF: Mass Air Flow
The little fagurtenik in the center of the constriction in your air intake ducting -- is used to sense the amount of air being ingested into your engine -- works as but one of the sensors that the computer relies upon for what's entering the engine.
There's a much better description by people much better versed on the subject here somewhere -- search on MAF and you'll probably find an evening's worth of reading.
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Y2K™ 7700 4x4
Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
The little fagurtenik in the center of the constriction in your air intake ducting -- is used to sense the amount of air being ingested into your engine -- works as but one of the sensors that the computer relies upon for what's entering the engine.
There's a much better description by people much better versed on the subject here somewhere -- search on MAF and you'll probably find an evening's worth of reading.
------------------
Y2K™ 7700 4x4
Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
I have a 97' that pings on low octane gas as well. Run the higher octane, no ping, truck runs great. MAF has been cleaned, reset the computer, etc., etc. I'm not saying this is right. Maybe changing the plugs or installing another MAF sensor will allow me to run 87 octane. But saying we're "masking the problem" or telling us "we're doing damage to the engine" by running a higher octane gas is bull. I've always run the better grades in all of my vehicles. How can you tell me that Ford discourages running higher octane gas in these vehicles? Articles?? Any Ford Motor Company data outlining just that?
I never run anything less than 89 in my truck. I have recently found a gas station in my area that offers 93 octane for the price of regular so I have been using 93 for about a month and a half. I ran it on 87 once and it was pinging and my gas milage sucked.
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97' F250LD, 4x4,4.6l V8 Romeo, auto,Plow Package, heavy duty cooling package, DeeZee running and bed boards, Prime design BugFlector
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97' F250LD, 4x4,4.6l V8 Romeo, auto,Plow Package, heavy duty cooling package, DeeZee running and bed boards, Prime design BugFlector
I used to run 89 octane all the time thinking that it was the cure to my pinging, but it was just a band-aid fix. Since I cleaned my MAF, my truck has never ran better. Now, I only run regular gas. These engines are designed to run only 87 octane and in fact, from what I have read around here, you are wasting your money running anything higher than 87. I've also heard that running higher octane can cause a build up of carbon in your combustion chamber. Perhaps someone with more technical knowledge than myself could back me up on this.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ruffled cat:
I bought My husband a 1997 F-150 in November 1999. The other day he when he cranked it black smoke came out the back and the engine was rattling. Had to tow it home. Only has 54,000 miles on it. The dealership said that we needed to replace the engine first figure was $4,300, then called us back and said $3,000 then the mechanic came to our house and said would be only $1,500.
We have done regular maintenance on the truck and everything. They said that a piston fell down in the motor.
Does anyone agree with me that an engine should last longer than 54,000 miles before needing replaced?
The manager at the shop just told my husband that it happens sometimes and engines go bad. Sounds like more often than not with everyone in here.</font>
I bought My husband a 1997 F-150 in November 1999. The other day he when he cranked it black smoke came out the back and the engine was rattling. Had to tow it home. Only has 54,000 miles on it. The dealership said that we needed to replace the engine first figure was $4,300, then called us back and said $3,000 then the mechanic came to our house and said would be only $1,500.
We have done regular maintenance on the truck and everything. They said that a piston fell down in the motor.
Does anyone agree with me that an engine should last longer than 54,000 miles before needing replaced?
The manager at the shop just told my husband that it happens sometimes and engines go bad. Sounds like more often than not with everyone in here.</font>
ruffled cat - did it run fine before this?
as pre 99 enginge in very cold climates can drop a rocker arm, i have also seen broken valve spring on romeo engine wich can cause the same thing - the 99 and later tritons have a edge on the rocker arms to prevent it from falling off - this is rare however that the fall off. If you were at a ford dealer they could run a compression test using wds and then isolate to wich cylinder and then pull of the valve cover for inspection just incase that it is not a damaged engine, depends on how they diagnoised the concern. But yeah they should last longe than that i am seeing tritions with over 200,000km doing just fine
as pre 99 enginge in very cold climates can drop a rocker arm, i have also seen broken valve spring on romeo engine wich can cause the same thing - the 99 and later tritons have a edge on the rocker arms to prevent it from falling off - this is rare however that the fall off. If you were at a ford dealer they could run a compression test using wds and then isolate to wich cylinder and then pull of the valve cover for inspection just incase that it is not a damaged engine, depends on how they diagnoised the concern. But yeah they should last longe than that i am seeing tritions with over 200,000km doing just fine


