I don't get the wheel cranking thing. I've tried it and it seems more difficult to me. I can do it just fine with the wheels straight. The filter fits, it's somewhat tight, but it still fits from below just fine.

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

My Home Page

 

Hey Bryan!! Glad to see that you have decided to do your own maintenence!! I do all that I can myself-except stuff like balancing tires,alignments,etc.--the computer stuff. Everything else is done by me in my garage or, when it is warm enough, outside. I can't really say much about how to do the filter removal-except that on my truck it is a pain in the a$$ and makes a big mess!!

However I will say something about your consideration to switch to a synthetic oil. I have read(many,many,many times over) on this site to use an engine flush before you make the switch fom conventional to synthetic. Not the cheap, 5 min. stuff in Wal-Mart, but a good flush like Amsoil.

As for what brand of oil to use--I would have to suggest to stay away from anything Quaker State(not only heard but have seen what it does-and it ain't good) or Penzoil. I would suggest Mobil-1, Amsoil, or Lubrication Engineers. Mobil-1 is the easiest to come by, so I would suggest using that one. Personally I would stick with the 5W-30 weight.

On the same note, by everything I have read, I would also suggest using the Mobil-1 or Puralator PureOne oil filters. Anyone I have talked to has always told me to avoid Fram filters like a plague.


Sorry So Long!!

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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course).

Certified Shade Tree Mechanic and wrench turner

[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 12-27-2000).]

 

There is a sence of satifaction when you can do some type of maitenance on your own vehicle now days. My personal best for a oil and filter change in my front yard without jacks is 15 minutes.

 

Thank for the info guys.

Pat- Can you tell me what you heard and seen bout the Quaker State? I need to know when Grandad confronts me! Also where can I find the Amsoil flush? I've never seen their products round here?

 

Is changing the oil on a 5.4L 4x4 much easier using jacks?

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2000 Black F-150 4x4 ORP FS, 5.4L
Stepups
So many mods, so little cash! On the up side, no wife to create a filibuster.

 

jaymz, you said it all. I've changed oil and filters, and done other regular maintenance, on all my vehicles since I was 16. That's 35 years ago. It keeps you in touch with what's going on, mechanically. You notice stuff wearing or going wrong before it fails and strands you or cost you big bucks.

Of course, being half Scottish, I figure the money I save lets me change everything much more frequently. I've changed oil at minus 20 degrees; it toughens you up or keeps you that way!

When I can't change my own oil any more, that's when I hang up the driver's licence and head to the hills to live out my life as a hermit.

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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 limited-slip. CD, remote entry, factory side steps, rear fender inner splash shields (TSB 00-09-05), FORD box liner.

My third F-series (ordered new). The other two: '73 F-100 Custom, 240 cube 6, 3 on the tree, tan, "West Coast" mirrors, step bumper, knitted vinyl seat, AM radio; and '98 F-150 SC short-box XL, XLS package, Pacific Green, 4.2 5-speed, 3.55 ls, FM-cassette.

GREAT trucks!

 

I like to drive to work at least once a month with no radio on so I can listen to the hum of the motor. It can help detect things you may have missed with Santana blaring inside the cab!

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2000 Black F-150 4x4 ORP FS, 5.4L
Stepups
So many mods, so little cash! On the up side, no wife to create a filibuster.

 

Bryan--the Quaker State oil in my opinion is like pouring sludge into your engine. I have recently helped a friend rebuild a motor with only 29K on it and all it ever had was Quaker State oil. I didn't know that much sludge(not to mention the varnish and extreme wear on the cylinder walls and the bearings) could build up inside-I don't see how the piston could rise and the crank could turn!! Recently I have spoken with many different mechanics in my area and they all have the same to say about Quaker State--DON'T use it!! And all but 1 or 2 said the same about penzoil.

Again, for a synthetic, I would recommend Mobil-1. If you choose to stay with a conventional, my three favorites are Mobil Drive Clean, Valvoline All Climate, and Castrol GTX (in that order).

For getting the Amsoil engine flush, look for a guy on this site named msparks. I had his e-mail and web-site address and will post them if I can find them.

P.S. This may be it(e-mail:lube-direct@bigfoot.com



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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course).

 

Thanks for everyones post on this topic. I too had heard how hard it would be to change the filter, so I paid one of these quick lube centers to do it (Never before and never again). Anyway, when they were done in like 5 minutes, I had to crawl under and see how hard the filter really was to get to. To my dismay, I have the filter right under the front bumper too. I could have changed it standing up. Arggh. Anyway, My 19.95 was a lesson that I will never have to learn again. Drive safe guys.

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97 supercab flareside 4x4, 5.4, cd changer, captians chairs, bedliner, hard cover, 17 in rims

 

It's finally warm enough to go crawling under a truck around here, so I dived under mine and found the oil filter on my 2000 5.4L with little problem. No arm snaking or body contorting whatsoever!

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* 2000 F-150 XLT FS; Black
* 4x4 ORP
* 5.4L
* 3.55 Limited Slip
* Stepups
* Sliding Rear Window
* 6-Way Power Seat
* Remote Keyless Entry
* Lund Trident Bug Shield

So many mods, so little cash! On the up side, no wife to create a filibuster.

 

After reading through this topic, I finally went out and checked mine today to see where the filter is located.

The filter is easy to get to, but what really surprised me is that there is a 6"X6" metal tray with an open lip in one corner underneath the filter to catch the oil and keep it off the frame! Nice touch.

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'00 F-150 Harley-Davidson Edition
Hard Tonneau Cover
Superchip
K&N FIPK
Hidden Hitch w/Harley Logo
Peronalized Plate: F150 HD
'99 FLHRCI '95 XLH

 

Hey Harley, ya think that drip pan is indigenous to the Harley models?

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* 2000 F-150 XLT FS; Black
* 4x4 ORP
* 5.4L
* 3.55 Limited Slip
* Stepups
* Sliding Rear Window
* 6-Way Power Seat
* Remote Keyless Entry
* Lund Trident Bug Shield

So many mods, so little cash! On the up side, no wife to create a filibuster.

 

I just skimmed through this topic, so if the original question was answered sorry.

The only easy way I've found to change the filter on my truck is to use either a filter socket, or one of the strap-style wrenches. get the wrench/socket positioned on the filter, and use a LOOONNNGGG ratchet extension. There is an access area in the wheel well that you can get the extension through so you can actually operate the ratchet. Between this and trying to clean up that plastic oil drain channel, I think my next mod will be a filter relocation kit!!! I liked the convenience of the earlier models with the relocation kit, but wasn't trilled with it being behind bumper. Surely there is a place that's easy to get to, yet still protected from foreign objects.



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2000 F150 XLT 4X4 Off Road 5.4L Reg. Cab 3.55

Performance Enhancemets:
K&N
WMS Velocity Tube
Gibson Sweptside

Audio Enhancements:
All of the above, plus
Sony C7000X HU
Cerwin-Vega SS2502 components(Front)
Blaupunkt PCxp573s(Rear)

Radio-delay mod

(For now)

 

My 1997 5.4 F150 had an engine oil cooler, and thus had the oil filter located behind the front bumper on the drivers side which made it very easy to change. My wife now has a 1999 5.4 F150 4x4 and it does not have the engine oil cooler, so the filter is located on the block. It is almost impossible to see, but not near as hard to change as it first looks. Ford also installed the little drip pan on this truck so oil doesn't drip all over. I have yet to look under my brand new V10 Super Duty to see where it's filter is located. The great thing about these 4x4's though is you can change the oil and filter and never need jacks, ramps, stands, whatever. Have a great day!!

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2000 F250 Super Duty V10 4x4
1999 F150 5.4 4x4
1990 Twin Turbo Mustang Drag Car

 

ragarm: Darned if I know if that oil filter drip pan is on the other models or not. My '97 F-150 didn't have it.

98SCREAMER: Haahhahha!!! Great! I'm going to use that again someday regarding the F150HD's drip pan.