Now --that's a flush!!!!

Sounds like you flushed it good....

 

I have a '97 F-150 with a 4.6. Back in May I had to spend $5K for a new engine (Ford Factory Re-built). My heads were shot. Had 106,000 miles on the engine. I don't know if Ford still does this but my engine had aluminum heads. Dealer says the "special" coolant helps minimize electalysis (sorry about my spelling). The electralysis is caused because the heads aren't the same metal as the block. I guess the gasket isn't an effective barrier.
Regular antifreeze won't work.
I'm told that had I used the correct fluid, my heads wouldn't have deteriated.

 

I can't speak for other model years or other "regular antifreeze", but I just pulled this off of Prestone's web site under the Frequently Asked Questions section.

"Q: What automobile industry specifications do your antifreezes meet or exceed?
A: Prestone® Antifreeze/Coolant meets or exceeds the performance requirements of:
ASTM D3306
SAE J1034
GM 1825M
Ford ESE M97B44-A
Chrysler MS7170
"

The one for Ford, is exactly the spec from under the hood and in the manual.

Good enough for me.........

 

I seen that tag once and called my local Ford dealer. They thought I was dumb and asked if it had the orange stuff or the green stuff. When I told them green they said to use regular old Prestone antifreeze. Ik new that there wasn't that much specail about it just wanted to know for sure I was right. Just buy a decent brand like Prestone or Peak.

 

Sounds like mister Duke got fed a line of potential bull from the dealer! That is unless he used the orange stuff, which some claim is OK and others don't. I don't know and don't care, I'll stick withthe stuff we know works. My truck just got another flush and refilled with good old green antifreeze (Zerex for those who care).

 

Hi

My 99SC probably should have a radiator flush. It still looks clean and green. Tested over -40 deg. But, almost 3yr. so....

Posts here seem ok to me on DIY flush jobs.

MitchF150 post about Prestone meeting Ford spec. was right on. Same Ford spec. for my truck.

Wanted to pass this on...maybe get some feed back.

Anyone ever install a Prestone "Flush N' Fill" kit.

I have several times. I did one on my 88 F250. If you have then you know, if not....

Involves cutting water heater hose, installing a tee fitting with hose adaptor and uses a cap to close hose fitting.

To BACK FLUSH..install water hose at t-fitting, remove radiator cap and install overflow pipe, just start running water till clear, with engine running and heater turned on.

Not to long, water would be clear. Then drain radiator.(close pet ****) Remove hose at T, but leave open. Add anti-freeze thru radiator. This way you just keep pouring anti freeze till it comes out at T-fitting.

Never took engine block plugs out to drain. This flush kit worked great for 10 years. Flushed every 2 years. No problems.

NOW....My question.....Do you think the same principal would work to flush these newer cooling systems.... Seems to me it would.

Kit available at auto stores. I sent Prestone an email. Reply was didnt fit all vehicles, contact your dealer....go figure..LOL

The old overflow pipe that came with kit does not fit the new expansion tank pressure opening...its loose, but think i could fix that, have to find out if the T-fittings will fit hose.....The over-flow pipe just directs the water away from vehicle.

Havent done it yet, but thinkin about it. Any thoughts!

BTW...on my 99SC has 4.6L The left side drain plug is right below the rear (block) freeze plug. The right side plug is covered up by the engine mount, now how you would get that one out i dont know... If you feel better and yes, follow specs, remove plugs. I did same way on 3 vehicles. No problems. IMO this back flush really cleans and eliminates plug removal.

Hot spots, thats new to me. Maybe old stuff with a new name. Seems to me air has always been present with cooling systems. Remember when they first installed the over-flow tanks. They would catch oveflow from radiator and also purge air.

Why did Ford go to a new style pressure expansion tank and no cap on radiator. Seems like old technology just a new look. Cheaper?? Dont know. Just thoughts....HA

Yeah long post, but think this might be way to go. Any thoughts?

Good luck. OT

 

I have used the flush kits too. Still have one on the wifes Plymouth Acclaim. I even had an extra kit, and wanted to install it on the F150, but I couldn't find easy access to any heater hose, so just flushed per my other post.

The one thing I didn't like about the flush kit was that you had to wait for the engine to cool down before flushing. I know this, because I didn't do that the first time I flushed the Acclaim. One cracked head and $1200 later, I learned my lesson really fast.

Didn't want to even come close to doing that on the 5.4, so was kinda glad I didn't install it. The way I do it, I don't have to wait, I just drain and fill (and repeat), and let the T'stat control the water flow inside the engine. Works for me and I always change my coolent every 18 months, no matter what the tester shows.

Not sure why they changed the rad. Probably just to get you to go to them to flush it out.

 

The lack of a radiator cap sure throws me. How do you fill the radiator once it's drained? The tube from the overflow goes straight to the lower radiator hose. Do you refill the radiator with the engine running and up to tempature with the thermastat open? Or am I just having a mental block because I'm not filling my radiator in the same manner I always have, when in reality it's all the same but just looks different.

 

After the rad is drained (for the final time), I just poured the antifreeze into the resovoir and it took all two gallons. No need to run the engine WHILE filling it up. Just start it up when you can't put anymore in, and let it heat up. Then the fresh water in the block will circulate into the rad. You'll have to let it run for a bit to get it all mixed up. I didn't have to add anymore after the initial fillup. Just took the truck out and drove it around town for an hour.

 

OK! I read the post about your Plymouth but I guess the drain and fill didn't click. I told you I had a mental block. So yes, it's all the same but different. Thank you for making it clear.

 

No need for all this spazz, I did mine a month ago and no problem. I put a length of hose on the drain plug and it drained nicely into a bucket for recycling. Started the truck and with a hose, put H2O in the recovery jug as there is no radiator cap. Turned the heater on high and let it run until clear fluid started to enter the bucket. Turned off the truck and let the radiator drain out. Closed the valve and refilled with 50-50 mixture. Check level for a few days with no problem.

 

I changed out my thermostat once for the Hyperjunk chip, and then back to a stock style stat. The next time I had the coolant flushed, it was down quite a bit. I just have the recirculatory flush done since that screwup, and no more trouble. I'd rather have someone else do it than hurt this expensive engine.,,,,98

 

Try this to get a 50/50 mix.
Take an old gallon milk jug and pour 1/2 full of antifreeze and the other half water. Pour into resivoir tank. Do it again and again until it willnot take anymore.
You must have 50/50 when you are finished.
I also have an old Prestone gallon bottle in the garage with 50/50 mix ready to pour in if ever needed.

 

Just to add what T Ellenberger said.

That'll work "if" you get all the water out of the block first. That's why I put in two gallons of straight antifreeze into the rad, because I didn't drain the water out of the block. Since the capacity of the entire system is about 4 gallons, this will get you pretty darn close to 50/50. I think it actually has a bit more antifreeze then water, but that's a good thing anyway......

I too keep a 50/50 mix to add as needed, but so far have not had to add any.

 

Guys,

Let me put my 2 cents in here.

I did my own coolant change recently almost exactly like Mitch150 described. I too heard the "rumors" about air pockets and spoke to my service tech on the issue and asked him how they did coolant replacements.

The "air pockets" are total BS when changing coolant is done prudently and opening the block plug on a clean system is not necessary. If you noticed Mitch drained his system several times until it was clear, ran the engine, then added the coolant to the reservoir until he could not get any more in after running the engine to warmup.

Since I have HD cooling I expected to use three gallons but could only get in 2 1/2 ..... close enough for a 48% mixture. As long as you leave the reservoir cap OFF until it does not bubble out the air anymore you will be fine. You should also not be in a hurry to get the job done as adding cold coolant or water to a hot engine between flushes and drains is a no-no. I spent all day during the late Summer letting the engine cool down between drains. Of course the dealer doesn't do this but what do they care? Your warranty is over anyhow.

Check your reservoir a week or two later and that will tell you if you got all it would take. I filled mine to the exact reservoir lines and have not had to add anything for three months.

What many guys over look is using SOFT water. I ran my dehumidifier for a couple days and saved all the soft clean water from it and used that as my "clean" water after adding antifreeze. Then I mixed the antifreeze that was left (2 quarts) for a 50-50 mix in the event I need it later. If you live in an area that has "hard" water you would be surprised at the stone-like residue that is deposited in your radiator and engine block. THAT'S where your primary problems will develop from in later years.

On the "green" vs "orange" issue. I have been told by the dealer to replace your coolant with what came with it. Your service manual tells you the same. What more is there to say? Since mine came with the "green" coolant then green Prestone or Zerex is perfectly compatible. Who do you think makes Ford's green and orange antifreeze? Surely Ford doesn't.