Thinking of replacing/rebuilding the engine

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Old Mar 7, 2002 | 03:13 PM
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Thinking of replacing/rebuilding the engine

The rear seal leaks, it smokes internally bad.. WTF?! Smoke poors out of the intake path/valve cover hose and cap if I open it.


Pro Engine sales wants $1485 rebuild the motor and do the work.

They want $785 for the block plus heads and lifters etc.,?

Could I put a Mustang engine in it??

That would rule.

If any of you know where to get a good cheap 5.0 motor from please let me know.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2002 | 03:37 PM
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you can put a mustang engine in it, you just need to use the truck intake manifold and teh mustang computer (due to the different firing order). i was looking to rebuild my engine too, but around here they want around 1500 for the job (nothing special, just rebuild with new rings, bearings, and gaskets). im thinking of getting an engine from www.ford-rebuilt-engines.com , they got a nice 351w for 1100.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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Question

Have you checked you PCV? It should rattle when you shake it. It should be attached to one of the valve covers and the other end goes into the intake to be burned in the combustion process and sent out the exhaust.

If it's plugged, then pressure will build up in the crankcase and it'll blow out a seal or gasket. Maybe that's how your rear seal got blown out?

That would kinda explain why when you open the oil fill cap smoke comes out?

Dunno, just a guess.......
 
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Old Mar 7, 2002 | 11:36 PM
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I suggested that as well, but have not heard an answer yet.

Hmmmmmmmm

Take care,
-Chris
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 12:44 AM
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ok.. well what side is it on, passenger i think, cuz the hose that comes from the filler spout goes to the intake

I cant see the PCV unless its hidden under the plenum, even if you tell me about where at on the passenger valve cover.. (middle??) i could feel for it, does it just pull out.

I looked for it earlier but didn't find it.

does it need to have both sides going.

the pcv goes to the engine vacuum?? where or somewhere else??
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 12:47 AM
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on my truck its on teh passenger side valve cover, and goes from the valve cover to the upper intake manifold. i always have to feel for it because i cant see it. it will come right out, doesn't screw in or anything. good luck!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 09:54 AM
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What size engine could I put in??

Would it fit a 351W, what would I have to do to make that work, or a mustang engine with mustang intake, etc. work.. or no..

please tell me. thanks, i will be checking the pcv today.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 10:59 AM
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If it's not in your valve cover, check the very back of the lower intake.

Take care,
-Chris
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 01:58 PM
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Originally posted by Silverstanger
What size engine could I put in??

Would it fit a 351W, what would I have to do to make that work, or a mustang engine with mustang intake, etc. work.. or no..

please tell me. thanks, i will be checking the pcv today.
a 351W will fit, but it wont be a cheap project. im planning thes swap (302 -> 351w), and there is a lot involved. a mustang 302 is also possible, but it would be easier if you use teh truck intake manifold. if you want to use the mustang one, i think it might be a little harder but im sure its possible.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 02:11 PM
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PCV checks out okay. It rattles, and I took the end of a pen and pushed in the inner part of the valve , I could tell its spring loaded.. now i am going to start the truck and see what the hose going to the pcv does.. vacuum or pressure wise.

here is an update on what everything is doing:


Smoke comes out of the tailpipes, gray smoke when I rev it.
Smoke comes out of the dipstick tube
Smoke comes out of the PCV hose that goes to the Air Box for the Intake.
Smoke comes out of the exhaust leak area when I rev it.

I think I will change my name to SmokeyF-150
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 03:04 PM
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so i take it you dont pass emissions . seriously though, i think youre better off just rebuilding the engine or buying an already rebuilt engine (which includes a warranty). how many miles on the engine?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 03:58 PM
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oh and did i mention that, when observing the steady onpour of smoke coming out of the dipstick tube.. oil started making its way UP and OUT the tube too.. thats insane.. omg

a compression test only shown good because of all the oil sealing the cylinder?? probably!!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 07:50 PM
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Gray smoke?! I believe that that is a serious sign of a craked block/heads or very bad gaskets. It sounds like coolant is making it's way into your combustion chamber. Look for gray sludge on your oil filler cap. I had a old B210 do that once. It would put out so much steam you could cover a large parking lot like a James Bond car. I smoked out a Burger King drive through once. You should have seen the poor sap trying to seal the window to keep all that smoke/steam out. It progressed to the point that when I turned it off once it locked the motor due to one of the cylinders filling up with water. Turned out to be a head gasket. I would think about getting a good long block, sounds like you need it.

Good luck. BTW, I used to own a 95 w/5.0 mass air and I now own a 94 w/5.8 speed density. I can tell you that my 5.0 seemed to have more top end but this 5.8 really pulls from the bottom. I had 31x10.5 w/3.55lsd gears and my 5.0 couldn't burn them from a stop. It would dig in and take off but not bark the tires. The 5.8 has 30x9.5 w/3.55lsd and it will lay a good strip. It feels strong enough to burn even the 31x10.5s which I plan on getting soon. I tow a boat so I prefer the low-end torque of the 5.8.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 10:38 PM
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no its gray/blue smoke.. from burning oil. but not severly just when i rev it up higher than idle it comes out.

it smokes plenty from INSIDE the engine.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2002 | 02:50 PM
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The only way smoke should be coming from the crankcase is by oil getting burned in the combustion chamber, and getting blown by the rings. A functioning PCv system should take care of it. BUT, there should be much more smoke coming from the exhaust than the crankcase. if you're interested, the easiest way to test the quality of the rings is to perform a second compression test, exactly like the first, except that just prior to checking each cylinder, send 3 squirts of motor oil (using a little oil squirt can works best) into that cylinders spark plug hole. If the readings are 20 psi higher, or more, than they were in the first test, your rings are shot, and the bottom end needs rebuilding. if the numbers are less than 20 psi greater, than the problem lies in the heads.

Take care,
-Chris
 
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