Hey everyone,

I know there is much support for Mobile 1 Sythetic oils, but i was curious what people thought about Motorcraft Synthetics. I have a buddy at a Dealership that will get me it at cost (although i am not sure what that cost is as of yet). If its a lot less expensive, i would consider using that oil too.

Also, I have not yet put synthetic oil in my 4.6 - only Qstate and an OEM Ford Filter so far. there is 64,000 kms on the motor now - all while driving - i dont idle in traffic often. Are there any special steps i should take before putting the synth oil in?

Thanks for your suggestions, I love this Forum!



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Bambino Worldwide
http://bambino.dhs.org/

 

Might have answered my own question - even when at 10% over cost for the Motorcraft Synth 5w30 - it is still $6cdn for a litre. while the Mobile is about $6.50cdn for a litre right now.

Just in case anyone was interested...

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Bambino Worldwide
http://bambino.dhs.org/

 

I switched to Mobil-1 Synthetic today in my Explorer. Previously I'd gone a maximum of 4,000 miles prior to oil changes. Am wondering how much I can extend the mileage now that synthetic is being used. (Am thinking of changing at around 8,000 now, but would like to go 10K.)

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2000 F-150 Harley-Davidson
'99 FLHRCI
'95 XLH

 

Well if you contact Mobil corp. They don't recommend anything past what the manufacture recommends. Though I would say that 10,000 would be okay.

This is the reason that I like Amsoil, they say right on the bottle 7500 miles, or 25,000 miles, or 35,000 miles. Depending on which one you chose. Kinda makes it a no brainer that way.

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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

Might not be a good ideal to run oil that far before changing it what is the purpose of it

 

I have put Mobil 1 in several of my vehicles over time. Some tests have shown (At least that is what they say, I have not seen the reports) that it makes no difference whether to use synthetic or dino if you change within the recommended times. My experience in the North East is that using Mobil 1 in the winter sure makes for easier starting.

 

I am switching to Mobil 1 after my first 1000 miles. Even though I'll be changing teh M1 every 3,000 miles, I'll be able to sleep at night knowing that there is a great oil in there that will help prolong the life of my engine.

I would go Red Line, but RL is not API cert.

Synthetic holds up better in extreme situations.

 

I have ran Redline Synthetics in every vehicle that I have owned.
At the last count that was 42 cars, trucks, suv's etc.
I have never had an oil related problem with any of the vehicles.
The 450hp 5.0 in the basement has in it the engine and it had the crap ran out of it last night at the track.

That API (american petroleum institution) and "star seal" is just another "hand in the till".

Redline puts API ratings such as SF,SJ,SD etc. on the sides of the bottles.

Besides would a company who spends their kind of money for ads in every known performance magazine, not be good?

 

I have no beef with Red Line oil. I've talked on many occasions with Dave Grandquist at Red Line.

Their products are top-notch, but technically, a Ford dealer can refuse service based on the fact that Red Line is not API approved.

I've run the Moly rich Red Line on my moderately modded 4.6L truck with great results.

I'm just sticking with Mobil 1 because of availability, price, warranty considerations, etc.

Red line is also not a pure Ester basestock, they include PAO's in their formula.

Mobil will match Red Line in the interval I am planning, 3000 miles.

 

What is the cost for Red line compared to Mobil 1.

 

bambino, Motorcraft is good oil, Ford has set the specs high for the 5w-20. It's a group III synthetic, which is not a real synthetic like Mobil 1, but better than dino in durability and flow. The only down side of the group III is the price is almost as much as a fill PAO synthetic, so if the pice is close just use the Mobil 1.

64Km is getting to be a bit high on mileage, but not a problem. If your engine is free of sludge you can just switch to synthetic. Just remember not the extend the drain interval on the first change as there will be some cleaning going on.

The best way to switch to synthetic is to run Auto-RX for the last 750 miles of your current dino oil, then drain and refil with synthetic. The Auto-RX disolves sludge faster, and as an added benefit will disolve carbon and varnish.

If your not happy with the results of running synthetic you can change right back to dino. Many, including myself run synthetic just in winter for better cold starts.

 

There is about a four dollar difference between Mobil 1 and Red Line. The later being more expensive.

 

Guess I have to draw the line at Mobil 1 for such a price difference. I pretty much only use a synthetic during the winter anyways.

 

To clarify - most "synthetics" on the shelves today are group III dino based oils. The exceptions to that are Mobil 1 (PAO base), Redline (ester base), Amsoil (PAO base) and German Castrol (as well a a few foreign oils). I get conflicting data about Royal Purple, but I think they are group III dino based.

The Motorcraft synthetic is group III Chevron Hydroclear. Its a great oil, and performs equal to any other synthetic from what I've read on BOBISTHEOILGUY.com, at 3-5K drain intervals.

But for the cleaning capabilities and the longer drain intervals, Mobil 1 5w-30 (which is almost thin enought to be a 5w-20) would be my choice. Especially with such a small price difference.

greencrew is right, let the 1st drain be 3-5k to allow the synthetic to clean out some of the deposits left in your engine.

 

I agree with all that has been said, but Red Line is not a pure Ester basestock. It has to be assumed that they, too also use some PAOs. Amsoil series XL7500 is also a group three basestock. The XL2000 series is a true synthetic.

It's all a big mess. I have heard that Amsoil buys most of its PAOs from Mobil.