bunch a newbie questions (sorry)
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 9
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From: Lindsay,Ok
You may want to take the IAC valve (idle air control) off of the throttle body and clean it out good with some carb cleaner, just spray it in both holes and let it sit for a few minutes. The IAC is a silver solenoid with a two wire connector on top of the throttle body. remove two 8mm bolts and try not to hurt the gasket under it. This may help your idle problem, but it may also be a A/C - WOT relay stuck. As far as the recall there was a check valve installed at each tank. If you go talk to some Ford techs at a dealership they may have one floating around somewhere. you can put theme in while you are changing you fuel level sending units
hope this helps, KC
hope this helps, KC
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: houston, texas, usa
bunch a newbie questions (sorry)
I just moved to Houston, Texas from Germany this spring and have never had a truck before. I bought an 1988 F-150 SuperCab 302 5.0l V8 EFI, stick-shift with 150K miles in April. One exhaust manifold was cracked, so I put two headers in there (got them cheap) and replaced the burned O2 sensor. Otherwise the engine seems ok: starts fine, good power, good mpg, low/no oil consumption.
1) After I installed the headers (I admit, they were really cheap), switching on the A/C while idling may cause the engine to stall (in about 1/3 of all cases). Any idea? A/C compressor is refurbished and bought in June.
2) I noticed that the rear tank leaks into the front tank. From this board I get that this is a recall? Sounds fine to me. Anyone done that?
3) I also noticed the gas gages are funky - I learned from this board that everyone has that?
4) What are the standard parts I should replace if I don't know how the previous owners treated the truck (besides oil, air filters etc.)?
5) Should I use gas additives (like injector cleaner etc.)? Do they really help?
6) What are the standard things I should keep an eye on a truck like that (besides fluid levels, brakes and filters)? What are the parts most likely to be/become broken?
Lots of questions, but those are only those I haven't figured out from this board. I've already learned a lot from you guys! Thank you!
Bjoern
1) After I installed the headers (I admit, they were really cheap), switching on the A/C while idling may cause the engine to stall (in about 1/3 of all cases). Any idea? A/C compressor is refurbished and bought in June.
2) I noticed that the rear tank leaks into the front tank. From this board I get that this is a recall? Sounds fine to me. Anyone done that?
3) I also noticed the gas gages are funky - I learned from this board that everyone has that?
4) What are the standard parts I should replace if I don't know how the previous owners treated the truck (besides oil, air filters etc.)?
5) Should I use gas additives (like injector cleaner etc.)? Do they really help?
6) What are the standard things I should keep an eye on a truck like that (besides fluid levels, brakes and filters)? What are the parts most likely to be/become broken?
Lots of questions, but those are only those I haven't figured out from this board. I've already learned a lot from you guys! Thank you!
Bjoern
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: houston, texas, usa
I checked the voltage from the PCM to the IAC valve and it read 12V. Haynes repair manual says it should be around 10.5V. Is 12V 'around 10.5V' or should I consider taking it somewhere? The resistance is fine (10 Ohm).
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 2
From: OK
Welcome! There is a lot of good info here and, for older trucks, at www.ford-trucks.com Try searching the archives there for definitive answers to all your questions.
1) Been hashed out... IAC is a good place to start.
2)Check-valve design problem common to that era of dual-tank trucks. The only solution is to get a new selector valve.
3)There is a cheap-@$$ power supply that provides bias for the guages. It is notorious for failure. A few guys have built their own supply and had much better luck (see above website).
4)If it's not broken, don't fix it. Fluids- oil/brake/coolant & filters-oil/fuel/air should be top of the list. Go ahead and check the plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor while your at it.
5)Techron is supposed to be pretty good, but a dealership can tap directly into the fuel rail and clean the injectors better than tank additives.
6)You've already found many of the most common [big] problems- exhaust manifold, funky guages, fuel tank leak. Warped rotors are pretty common too. The manual tranny isn't noted for strength, so you may want to have it checked along with the clutch & pressure plate.
It sounds like a lot of problems, but they really aren't all that bad. The truck probably has several years of work/enjoyment left in it. Congrats!
Neal
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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, 2000 "XLT" wheels, 4.10 gears, Auburn LS, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars.
2000 4x4 F250 SD XLT SuperCab SWB- 6.8L, Offroad Pkg, Camper Pkg, 4.30LS, Tape & CD player, Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, tinted windows, 265/75R16 OWL tires.
NoMo's site
1) Been hashed out... IAC is a good place to start.
2)Check-valve design problem common to that era of dual-tank trucks. The only solution is to get a new selector valve.
3)There is a cheap-@$$ power supply that provides bias for the guages. It is notorious for failure. A few guys have built their own supply and had much better luck (see above website).
4)If it's not broken, don't fix it. Fluids- oil/brake/coolant & filters-oil/fuel/air should be top of the list. Go ahead and check the plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor while your at it.
5)Techron is supposed to be pretty good, but a dealership can tap directly into the fuel rail and clean the injectors better than tank additives.
6)You've already found many of the most common [big] problems- exhaust manifold, funky guages, fuel tank leak. Warped rotors are pretty common too. The manual tranny isn't noted for strength, so you may want to have it checked along with the clutch & pressure plate.
It sounds like a lot of problems, but they really aren't all that bad. The truck probably has several years of work/enjoyment left in it. Congrats!
Neal
------------------
1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, 2000 "XLT" wheels, 4.10 gears, Auburn LS, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars.
2000 4x4 F250 SD XLT SuperCab SWB- 6.8L, Offroad Pkg, Camper Pkg, 4.30LS, Tape & CD player, Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, tinted windows, 265/75R16 OWL tires.
NoMo's site