I am intending to add a set of headers to my Screw, but I am not sure which ones....

I have used Gibson and Hedman before, and I was not real happy with either. Headman are pretty cheap and Gibson did not fit correctly (Ihad to have my Y pipe sectioned and welded).

I have never tried JBA or Borla, but I think I read that these are a real bi**ch to install....

Anyone have any recomendations?????

Also, I have always bought the steel or stainless steel, but they look awful...does the chrome hold up or does it peal and chip and discolor with age????


Thanks

 

i think any header you choose will be a b*yich to install only because of the limited space you have to work in under teh hood of the 5.4. as far as chrome headers, not ehy will not hold up, the start to chip pretty easily. you can get the ceramic coated headers (a little more $$$), and even though its not as shiny as chrome, it will not fade or anything. its also guaranteed against rust and will even help keep underhood temperature down. just my $.02, good luck!

 

I have to agree with donate54. However, can make the install less painful by making sure you have all the need tools for the job.
You might also want to get a set of locking header bolts...

Good Luck Man

 

JCW has some Pacesetter Ceramic-Metallic coated shorty headers listed for $285. I don't know how good they are but they are 49 state legal. Thought about picking up a set and holding on to them until I can get a set of PI heads ported and installed.

 

I have a set of pacesetter headers that were painted on my 97 4.6. It was a long day when we put mine on. I had to even take the right side motor mount loose to get the exhaust manifold off. took us bout eight hours to do and its a pain when you seem to work an hour tightening up a bolt when all you do is make bout half a turn and have to start over. I love my headers but if I had advice to give, i would use allen head bolts that are locking. It is a lot easier to get an allen wrench in the tight spaces.

 

I put JBA's on mine and had no problems other than getting the collector bolts cut off and threading the new header bolts through the top-end of the flange of the headers. Getting the threads started s*cked... Maybe there are header bolt kits out there that have an un-threaded tip on the themto make starting them easier. I just thought the whole bolt thing was due to bad design... Crow foot wrenches would have helped get those bolts tightened down as well since you'd have more clearance. I took out the wheel-well liners to make room but did not have to drop the front drive shaft like JBA suggested. It took me about 7-1/2 hours total but that included a few trips to the fridge for a few cold ones and the associated trips to the bathroom.

 

I reused the studs and nuts. My hedman headers are holding up. There is a leak on the driver side. Ii suspect that it is due to the head gasket replacement. The head was removed without removing the header. It was done under warranty and has leaked ever since. I will be removing them and welding where the leak is.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier