So do these little black caps next to the fuel injectors have my spark plugs under them? Can they be taken out without removing
the injector tubes? I've always done my own tune ups and performance mods but it doesn't look like I'll be putting any MSD Super Conductors on! Thanks Scott

 

it is not that bad, at least on the 4.6. It is not most the fun job to do, but it only took me 30 minutes to do!
Basically you need a good spark plug socket with a swivel or rag joint built into it. Then a few different extension lengths.

If you have not found the plugs yet, follow the wires back to the circular boots that look like they are inbetween the head and block at where the gasket would be. They are shapped so you can pull them off. They are long like the imports. OHC stuff.

Basically put the socket down the hole, it will align with the plug. Twist it off. I had a bit of problems with the socket coming off the extentions once you got the plug in there. So a lot of the holes I was able to get the socket out with some needle nose vice grips. Eventually I got a better idea and used some tape at the end of the extension and force it into the socket. Some of the plugs would not come out with the socket, so once they were unthreaded, just put the spark plug boot back over them and pull them out that way.

For the back one I just used a shorter extension. I had more issues on the drivers side with the power steering hardlines in the way.
Yes it is not an easy job, but I have never found a v8 engine in a car/truck that is very easy to change plugs anyhow.

good luck!

 

Matt90GT,
I believe that you are refering to the 4.6. The 5.4 does not have spark plug "boots". It has individual coil packs on each plug, I believe. I've also been wondering how they are safely removed.
God bless ya gettin to the passenger side rear plug. lol

 

Sorry, forgot to sign.

------------------
1997 4x4 extended cab
1986 Buick Grand National
1970 Buick GS 455

 

Thundrr, easy: just take off the electrical connector, and pull the 7mm bolt, then pull the COP assembly (coil) out. They bend just like any boot and WILL comeout easily. There is NO reason to take off the fuel rails. The rubber might come off, just plug it nback on the assembly. The hardest one is under the fuel regulator, which you will probably need a wrench for. Good luck! (and tighten the hose clamp above number 4 so it won't roach your coil on 4.)

 

GR8SCOTT,
Yes, the little (1/2 dollar size) black caps are the Coil On Plug (COP). According to the factory manual, you do not have to remove the fuel rail. However, from looking at mine ('97 F150), there does not appear to be enough clearance between the fuel rail and the coils to remove them.

Has anyone tried?

Hope this helps.

Tony

 

Thanks for the replys, goin at it this weekend. THANKS

------------------
1997 4x4 extended cab
1986 Buick Grand National
1970 Buick GS 455

 

I too have a 4.6 L engine....I changed plugs last weekend. I put in the new Bosch Platinum +4 plugs (six bucks each!) So far I have not noticed a big change (a little more pep)...anyone else try these plugs yet? Also be careful to put your plug wires back in the routing harness when done changing plugs, I had two of the original wires come loose from the harness and burn on the manifold and short out.

 

I changed the plugs on mine and after reading about how hard it was I was actually pleasantly surprised! Granted it did take about three hours but it really isn't all that bad. If I ever halfto do it again I could do it a lot quicker. Good luck changing yours!

------------------
1998 F250 XLT 4x4 reg. cab/long box 5.4L auto with 3.73 gears.

Modifications:

K&N air filter, removed cold air intake.
Lund Intercepter bug shield.
Molded mud flaps
Husky floor liner

 

FarmTruck:

How many miles at change?

Why did you change them (eg: was missing? needed something to do? adding perf-parts?)

Did you need SONAR and double-joints?

Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks,

------------------
Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"